Forbidden Peak West Ridge TR

[CM3]

Hiked up Boston Basin June 4th, the two avalanche sections that wiped out the trail a couple of years ago are more manageable. All stream crossings were gushing! The trail gets snowed in the upper tree part of the trail, but it was straight foward.

 

The basin has almost no dry sections, plan on camping on snow, lots of recent avalanche debris around Forbidden. Snow was butter fudge in the midday, don't need snowshoes.

 

The couloir was straight forward stair stepping. No shrud problems yet. Never used the crampons.

 

West Ridge was almost snow free, all sections that had snow on it was easily negotiated by moving right on the ridge. The north face still has alot of snow on ledges and ridges. The north ridge had alot of snow and cornices on it, especially the upper section. Climbed the WR in boots.

 

We descended the east ledges. There were about 4 small snow fingers you had to get through or above. It took alittle more time than usual, still faster and easier than descending the west ridge in my opinion.

 

Both days were hot, but no bugs!! The wind was howling on summit day morning (5th). A good trip in the mountains.

[leejams]

Good info sounds like you had a great day.

[Toast]

Thanks for the beta. Heading out to Eldo tomorrow. I'll leave the snowshoes at home

[proper]

CM3, where the east ledges pretty much dry (aside from the snow fingers)?

[LhotseDreems]

CM3 - Thanks for the beta, nice day in the hills! Quick question... did you notice what shape the N. Face of Buckner was in? And how the North Ridge of Forbidden looked?

 

Thanks!

[CM3]

The east Ledges are 80% dry, the snow fingers keep things wet. The north ridge of Forbidden had a lot of snow especially the middle section with a HUGE cornice. The upper N ridge had snow where the rock route was, it looked wet and unpleasent, in my opinion (I climbed the N Ridge last year).

 

Buckner N Face looked like a pure white snow slope, no shrund problems, however it is pretty hot now so I would wait for cooler temps.

[erik]

it begins!

 

 

[snclimber]

CM3, how did the East Ridge route of Forbidden look? Did it seem to be clear of snow? Also, was the road open to the Boston Basin trailhead?

Thanks

[CM3]

East Ridge looked dry. Cascade River Road is gated around the 22 mile marker, you have to hike about 2 miles to get to the trail head.