Dustin_B Posted June 5, 2003 Share Posted June 5, 2003 How long does it take to get from the Schreibers Meadow trailhead (assuming one can drive all the way to it) to the summit via the Easton glacier? Summit to car? Assume firm(ish) snow and average mountaineer endurance. I know you are going to say things like it depends on this or that and what not, so just tell me how long it took you and what time of year I'm thinking 8-9 hours to the summit and 5 back; does that sound resonable? Thanks Also assume you don't get run over by a snowmobile or one of the armies of people that are bound to be up there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skykilo Posted June 5, 2003 Share Posted June 5, 2003 We climbed the Emmons and skied the Squak for a round-trip time of nine hours from the car last September. That was neither slacking nor sprinting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshK Posted June 5, 2003 Share Posted June 5, 2003 I think 13-14 hours (the RT time you describe) is pretty easily doable. There is nothing technical, so you should be able to steadily grind up it and the grade is perfect for fast effecient elevation gain. Just don't get started too late or you'll have to deal with slogging up hill in the snow. Tell any snowmobiliers you see to go fuck themselves! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plexus Posted June 5, 2003 Share Posted June 5, 2003 It's along slog....do the boulder instead, it's a nicer route Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cman Posted June 5, 2003 Share Posted June 5, 2003 you should bring you skis, or a board or something. we got down from top to car in about an hour last year. have fun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshK Posted June 5, 2003 Share Posted June 5, 2003 plexus makes a good point, the easton doesn't have much going for it. If technical difficulty worries you, the coleman.deming is very easy and you won't have to deal with the hordes of snowmachines you'll see on the south side. That could really detract from the experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dberdinka Posted June 5, 2003 Share Posted June 5, 2003 skykilo said: We climbed the Emmons and skied the Squak for a round-trip time of nine hours .... Damn! How'd you get from the top of one mountain to the other? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Attitude Posted June 5, 2003 Share Posted June 5, 2003 dberdinka said: skykilo said: We climbed the Emmons and skied the Squak for a round-trip time of nine hours .... Damn! How'd you get from the top of one mountain to the other? Traverse? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JoshK Posted June 5, 2003 Share Posted June 5, 2003 LOL...you should claim FA of the baker->rainer traverse. THat's a hellavu a trip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sphinx Posted June 5, 2003 Share Posted June 5, 2003 dberdinka said: skykilo said: We climbed the Emmons and skied the Squak for a round-trip time of nine hours .... Damn! How'd you get from the top of one mountain to the other? He musta meant Easton: here's the link Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustin_B Posted June 6, 2003 Author Share Posted June 6, 2003 JoshK said: If technical difficulty worries you, the coleman.deming is very easy and you won't have to deal with the hordes of snowmachines you'll see on the south side. The technical difficulty is not the issue. Climbing it car-to-car in one push is our goal. I heard the area is closed to snow mobiles for the season now. When I was out there last weekend this snowmobile had broken off the only snowbridge going over the river there and was sitting on his snowmobile in the river. We laughed and took pictures and keep going, while his friend helped him out We wondered how the other snowmobilers would get down and how/if the others would make it past somehow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustin_B Posted June 6, 2003 Author Share Posted June 6, 2003 cman said: you should bring you skis, or a board or something I would if I had AT gear and if I felt comfortable skiing on a glacier . That will have to wait until next year Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wrench Posted June 6, 2003 Share Posted June 6, 2003 JoshK said: Tell any snowmobiliers you see to go fuck themselves! the snowmobilers really suck (except when they stop by your basecamp and offer you free beer). but check this out, looks like the problems with them are over for the summer: From the NPS: NOTE: The Mt. Baker National Recreation Area (NRA) off of Forest Service Road #13 and Anderson Creek area off Forest Service Road #1107 are now CLOSED to snowmobile use for the season due to melting snow conditions. This closure is to prevent damage to the fragile meadow vegetation that was protected by the snow cover. Posted: 6-03-2003 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpine_Tom Posted June 6, 2003 Share Posted June 6, 2003 Dustin_B said: JoshK said: If technical difficulty worries you, the coleman.deming is very easy and you won't have to deal with the hordes of snowmachines you'll see on the south side. The technical difficulty is not the issue. Climbing it car-to-car in one push is our goal. Coleman.demming is a reasonable one-day climb; I've done it twice. I've actually never been on the south side of the mountain, but the N. side is breathtaking, it feels totally alpine and hundreds of miles from civilization. I'd expect the snow would be in better condition for the descent - harder, anyhow - than on the south side. Plus, probably, lots fewer people. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skykilo Posted June 6, 2003 Share Posted June 6, 2003 Yes, yes, I meant the Easton. Emmons, Easton, one day glacier slogs... They blur together. Coleman Deming gets pretty crowded, too. I'd recommend Boulder-Park Cleaver. It's a little longer, but absolutely crevasse free up to 9,000 feet. No crowds there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustin_B Posted June 9, 2003 Author Share Posted June 9, 2003 Found trailhead at 1:00 am Saturday morning after oversleeping for half hour and bushwhacking for half hour . Went up Squak Glacier until it joined the Easton, on summit around 10 am, hang out (take pictures, drink, eat), left summit plateau at 11 am, back at trailhead at 3 pm. 14 hours round trip (about what we assumed). Great views and weather. Snow was perfect for kicking steps going up. Crampons on beneath slope that leads to crater. Pretty windy on summit although not real cold wind. Knee deep post-holing going down for first 1000 feet or more. Saw probably 6 to 8 skiers but no other rope teams. Steam vents in full force (smelly). Really, really, really envious of skiers going down. I'm now 1 for 3 on Washington volcanoes. That was my first (successful) Washington volcano!! (not counting Little Tahoma). Good times. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fairweather Posted June 10, 2003 Share Posted June 10, 2003 Nice trip! I've been up the Easton a couple of times, but it's been a few years. Is the Squack Glacier variation shorter overall with the completion of the new trail? Thinking about heading up that way in a couple weeks. Or maybe Boulder Galcier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fence_Sitter Posted June 10, 2003 Share Posted June 10, 2003 Fairweather said: Nice trip! I've been up the Easton a couple of times, but it's been a few years. Is the Squack Glacier variation shorter overall with the completion of the new trail? Thinking about heading up that way in a couple weeks. Or maybe Boulder Galcier. do boulder glacier...nice views! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dustin_B Posted June 10, 2003 Author Share Posted June 10, 2003 Fairweather said: Nice trip! I've been up the Easton a couple of times, but it's been a few years. Is the Squack Glacier variation shorter overall with the completion of the new trail? Thinking about heading up that way in a couple weeks. Or maybe Boulder Galcier. We took the Squak Glacier because it is a more direct line from the trailhead than going up the railroad grade and then onto the Easton. I don't know about a new trail making it shorter because we lost the trail and just followed a tree-lined ridge up to it. The Squak Glacier also starts higher up so you can rope up later (if you're roping up). It seems like it is less crowded too as we didn't see anybody until we joined up with the Easton around 8500 - 9000 feet, after which we only saw skiers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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