Uncle_Tricky Posted May 17, 2003 Posted May 17, 2003 trask said: (The Bowline) is simple - the rabbit comes outta the hole, around the tree, and back down the hole. Personally, I'm a fan of the Modified Bowline: The rabbit comes outta the hole, climbs the tree, takes a piss from on high, eats some herbaceous shubbery, visits the watering hole for a cold one, and then retreats to his den with the seductive snafflehoundstress for some funky rodent lovin. It's a more complex knot than the simple bowline, but hell-- you might at well do something besides simply hopping around some stupid tree before going back to your hole. Quote
Fence_Sitter Posted May 17, 2003 Posted May 17, 2003 personally i am a fan of just winding the rope through my harness a ouple of times and jsut tying random knots until the knot becomes the size of a basketball... seems pretty bomber to me... kinda a bitch to untie tho' Quote
allthumbs Posted May 17, 2003 Posted May 17, 2003 I like to wrap the rope thru a couple times and than slather the whole fucking mess with 2-part epoxy. In 20 minutes (two beers) it's strong enuf for Si. Quote
Fence_Sitter Posted May 17, 2003 Posted May 17, 2003 trask said: I like to wrap the rope thru a couple times and than slather the whole fucking mess with 2-part epoxy. In 20 minutes (two beers) it's strong enuf for Si. dood you are sketchy! for Si you need to do another coat of epoxy! at least! you are f-in dangerous! i can believe that you can find another guy to hold the end of your rope! you seriously need to read freedom of the hills chapter 132: epoxy tie-ins Quote
allthumbs Posted May 17, 2003 Posted May 17, 2003 those faukin' mountie publications are too deep for me. i prefer the BSA handbook, circa 1962 Quote
Sundog Posted May 18, 2003 Posted May 18, 2003 I did glacier climbs for a decade with a more experienced Intermediate mountaineer friend till he quit. Then I joined the mounties to find others to climb with. I think the basic mountaineer course is great for learning, self-sufficency, and finding a wide range of people to climb with. Every "instructor" is different. Some are militaristic and others are easy going, but they all want you to know what you are doing. The instructors have a lot of responsibility and due to a mostly rigid schedule have THAT day to train the novices. So they can seem bossy when the area is crowded with other groups. I was embarrassed by some of my leaders on Rainier and at Levenworth. So... a basic graduate won't automatically be the next Messner, but if he follows all his training he will define his limits and make wiser decisions. So...if the mountaineers are a bunch of dummies, what are all the expert climbers on this site doing on those easy dumb routes? Looking for mountaineer virgins? Quote
Fence_Sitter Posted May 18, 2003 Posted May 18, 2003 trask said: those faukin' mountie publications are too deep for me. i prefer the BSA handbook, circa 1962 i have the secodn edition of freedom of the hills...got it in a used book store... cool cartoons! what's a harness? all ya need to knwo is in there... and ther are even cute lil illustrations to show how you can die! Quote
Fence_Sitter Posted May 18, 2003 Posted May 18, 2003 Looking for mountaineer virgins? ding ding ding! we have a winner! for your prize... Quote
Dru Posted May 20, 2003 Posted May 20, 2003 Sundog said: So...if the mountaineers are a bunch of dummies, what are all the expert climbers on this site doing on those easy dumb routes? passing you, perhaps Quote
whirlwind Posted May 20, 2003 Posted May 20, 2003 (edited) dear sundog 2 things; knowing your limits and teaching limits are 2 differnt subjects. 1st knowing your limits is inportant for any one, it keeps us fairly safe and most important allows us to beak them and feel good when we inprove because there really is not much a person can't do if they practice and work at it hard enough. 2nd by teaching limits you only hider the person for ever excelling past mountie gumbydom u can never teach anyone anything in groups of 50 i'm sorry but thats all about bringing in the money there is no love there and no room for the students to inprove to much and also teaches limits which is bad too because a person will never fully reach there potential. as far as the climbs go it just shows how much love u have for climbing when u rerer to climb as dumb easy ones. the easy ones are often times the most fun case we get a chance to cruise up and get you head in shape before atempting harder routes also is good a nice relaxing day in the wildernessstick to the fing gym and learn all your fucked up shit there in ur groups of 50. let those who love it climb out side on the stupid easy stuff oh and virgins are good to Edited May 20, 2003 by wirlwind Quote
catbirdseat Posted May 20, 2003 Posted May 20, 2003 Wrlwind, the vast majority of those who take the Basic Course do not continue to climb with the Mountaineers, but rather set out on their own and climb with friends and continue to develop as climbers. The object of the Basic Course is not to make them into Mark Twight wannabes. It is to give them enough knowledge to get them started and to be safe in the mountains. It is up to them to decide how they want to grow as climbers. I imagine that many of them decide that alpine climbing really isn't for them and they go back to backpacking and hiking. A few of them become really good climbers. To say that taking a course with a group is going to hinder your chances at becoming an accomplished climber is simply not supported by any facts. It has been said before in this thread that the best way to learn quickly is to be mentored by an experienced partner. I would agree. That has been the traditional route for many great climbers. But some people just don't have the contacts to be able to get started. Yes, there is cc.com, but it takes a lot of temerity to contact some random stranger on a bulletin board and put your life in that person's hands. So there will always be a demand for organized courses. If not the Mountaineers, then Boealps, UW, WAC, OSAT, or any of the for profit outfits. Quote
klenke Posted May 20, 2003 Posted May 20, 2003 Or, for a small fee, Catbirdseat or Klenke would be willing to throw you off a mountain and teach you to fall gracefully. We do not teach by example, though. Seriously, though, CBS made some good points. Since I'm no longer a Mounty member, I can attest to what he just said. However, one of the great things about no longer being a Mounty member is that once you're out you can make fun of them with much more whimsy. It is also then that you can best see the insufficiencies and policy wonk problems inherent in the club (now in effect after nearly 100 years in existence). But so what. Quote
catbirdseat Posted May 20, 2003 Posted May 20, 2003 Klenke, if you are cuter than everyone thought, why is it that I never see you with some hottie hanging on your arm? Maybe the word hasn't gotten out yet. Quote
klenke Posted May 20, 2003 Posted May 20, 2003 Oh, you're right. It's time I changed the autosig. It was only a joke in response to someone else's similar autosig regarding Allison a couple weeks back. Of course, yours is getting kind of stale itself. You must have had that one up for a few months now. I guess you never see women hanging off of each arm cuz they're all intimidated by my imposing {thick} personality. Quote
Thinker Posted May 20, 2003 Posted May 20, 2003 I met kind of a cool Mountie on the Tooth a couple weeks back. He was there with 3? relatively inexperienced climbers the same time we were there with a few of our own. Seemed to me he was mentoring or leading the climb outside the formal structure of a class, though. Our groups got 'mixed' on the approach, so we took turns sending a couple of climbers from each group up throughout the morning, and ended up sharing ropes for the raps. He used a carabiner brake for all his raps....noted he need to get one of those ATC things someday. Quote
catbirdseat Posted May 20, 2003 Posted May 20, 2003 Uncle_Tricky said: fred took their climbing class in 1939 Yes, he did and it scarred him for life. Quote
allthumbs Posted May 20, 2003 Posted May 20, 2003 I was a Seattle mountie during the summer of 70. I signed up for a 10 day climbing trip in the Glacier Peak area. You know, the std. shit.... Glcr. Pk., Bonanza, Clark, Ten Peak, that stuff. After the first afternoon with those fucks I had had enough. Hitler was a nicer guy than the wank that led our group. I said fuck this and bailed from the group and ended up sorta circumnavigating Glacier for shits and giggles by myself. Had a great week alone and got some thoughts together. Fuck the mounties. Quote
catbirdseat Posted May 20, 2003 Posted May 20, 2003 trask said: I was a Seattle mountie during the summer of 70. I signed up for a 10 day climbing trip in the Glacier Peak area. You know, the std. shit.... Glcr. Pk., Bonanza, Clark, Ten Peak, that stuff. After the first afternoon with those fucks I had had enough. Hitler was a nicer guy than the wank that led our group. I said fuck this and bailed from the group and ended up sorta circumnavigating Glacier for shits and giggles by myself. Had a great week alone and got some thoughts together. Fuck the mounties. 1970's eh? You probably know all about dulfersitz and hip wraps. Those were the days of goldline and "the leader must not fall". Quote
Dru Posted May 20, 2003 Posted May 20, 2003 catbirdseat said: trask said: I was a Seattle mountie during the summer of 70. I signed up for a 10 day climbing trip in the Glacier Peak area. You know, the std. shit.... Glcr. Pk., Bonanza, Clark, Ten Peak, that stuff. After the first afternoon with those fucks I had had enough. Hitler was a nicer guy than the wank that led our group. I said fuck this and bailed from the group and ended up sorta circumnavigating Glacier for shits and giggles by myself. Had a great week alone and got some thoughts together. Fuck the mounties. 1970's eh? You probably know all about dulfersitz and hip wraps. Those were the days of goldline and "the leader must not fall". is that what the FOTH 6th ed says or what? Quote
allthumbs Posted May 20, 2003 Posted May 20, 2003 I just remember the mountie chicks all had hairy armpits and weren't too damn pleasant to look at. I was 'sposed to carry the tent and another choad I didn't know carry the poles and shit. He turned out to be a whinny crackbaby and I couldn't bring myself to share a fart, let alone a tent with him. Those fuckers suck all directions. Quote
whirlwind Posted May 21, 2003 Posted May 21, 2003 well even though you do have a fewgood points thereCBS the fact of the matter is large groups only hinder one's personal learning curve, i do see the need to develope basic skill (duh) but there are far better ways than roping up with and ass load of people. all you really have to do is hang out in a gym, and fequnet the local shop, most gyms teach basic skills and for alot cheaper and most the time one on one with the teacher (smaller shops and or gyms) i learned by hangin out at a crag for the better part of the summer buming belays till i finally found a fairly steady parner, and if you can';t find one then just by a pad and go boulder like destel32 thats my 2 cents any how Quote
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