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Posted

I read "The Mountains of My Life" recently, a compilation from several different books he's written. You don't hear so much about him. Dude was seriously bad ass. Got a bum rap from his kinfolk, especially the climbing community, that dogged him the rest of his career and beyond. Not the best climbing book ever written, but definitely worth reading. Contemporary of Terray, Rebuffat, Buhl, quite a collection of bad asses operating in the Alps and larger ranges of the world back in the day.

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Posted

Damn, now I vaguely remember seeing that and thinking I should check it out. Well maybe slightly reclusive but not really antisocial. Mostly I'm just a lame-ass and don't do a whole lot after work during the week. yellowsleep.gif

Posted

Yeah, sounds like I missed a good time. I'll have to pay more attention and try to make the next bbq event thingy. So, how 'bout Walter Bonatti? Anybody else read him? I haven't picked up any of Buhl's stuff yet, but that's definitely on my list. Nanga Parbat something-or-other.

Posted

bonatti fucking rox! his book, as mentioned, isn't written in the best style, but then he is friggin italian...i forget the name of the climb, but it's one he did shortly after k2...solo, in winter, a north facing tower so hard no one had ever succesfully completed it...took him more than a week...most depressing part of the climb: he goes to open part of his meager rations, a can of beer...he has to use his ice axe to bust into the top of the can, causing it to erupt and spills half the beer...he reportedly felt very dejected afterwards frown.gif...

Posted

I read the book, extremely interesting especially towards the end (not the K2 part, but his last writings). The description of his final climb, solo, of the north face of the Matterhorn in winter and then the two last chapters about a solo climb on Mt. Blanc and the trek to Patagonia many years down the road are required reading. These last two in particular - climbing to the top of Mt. Blanc in the predawn and marveling at the sunrise across Europe from the summit and his farewell to the mountains from the top of a remote peak in Patagonia are beautiful.

 

Bonatti was a bad ass guy. The stories together paint a wonderful picture of the man and include many feelings every climber can identify with.

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