salbrecher Posted April 24, 2003 Share Posted April 24, 2003 I go solo top rope aid and free climbing and know and have heard of lots of other people who do as well, however, I got to thinking, do people go solo top roped ice climbing? Seems so me if you had a bomber ancor (trees, lots of screws, gear) that it would work just the same. Do people not do it because of objective risks like ice falling or breaking off? Nothing can replace a belayer but i'll be moving to Kamloops and climbing in marble canyon and might not meet any iceclimbers by the time the season starts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skyclimb Posted April 24, 2003 Share Posted April 24, 2003 ROCK AND ROLL MAN!! Bomber pro, gnarly old trees strong as fire itself, and you!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaulB Posted April 24, 2003 Share Posted April 24, 2003 I seem to recall reading a story once about Joe Josephson rope soloing on ice, and taking multiple whippers while doing it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fern Posted April 24, 2003 Share Posted April 24, 2003 people do it. We can hook you up with partners though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted April 24, 2003 Share Posted April 24, 2003 fuck the rope just solo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snoboy Posted April 24, 2003 Share Posted April 24, 2003 Like fern says, we can hook you up with lots of partners in the 'loops. Plenty of people I know there go often to Marble Canyon. And just think... you will be 4 hours closer to Canmore too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
icegirl Posted April 24, 2003 Share Posted April 24, 2003 Didn't some guy fall about 3 years back soloing on the cable out at Banks Lake? Broke himself real bad and crawled to the road (not really that far if you know the area) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
salbrecher Posted April 24, 2003 Author Share Posted April 24, 2003 Partners up would be great! I'll be e-mailing you guys when I move up in September . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terminal_Gravity Posted April 24, 2003 Share Posted April 24, 2003 PaulB said: I seem to recall reading a story once about Joe Josephson rope soloing on ice, and taking multiple whippers while doing it. It is my understanding that JJ is so cool, clear & smooth that he has never fallen on ice; solo or with partner. He's the man we all wish we could be when climbing frozen water. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Terminal_Gravity Posted April 24, 2003 Share Posted April 24, 2003 salbrecher said: I go solo top rope aid and free climbing and know and have heard of lots of other people who do as well, however, I got to thinking, do people go solo top roped ice climbing? Seems so me if you had a bomber ancor (trees, lots of screws, gear) that it would work just the same. Do people not do it because of objective risks like ice falling or breaking off? Nothing can replace a belayer but i'll be moving to Kamloops and climbing in marble canyon and might not meet any iceclimbers by the time the season starts. At best, I am a marginally skilled ice climber but I am a fairly focused solo-er. I was wandering through the Wallowas late last winter and found a 200' low angle waterfall with several easy escapes to the side. I happened to have my tools & rigid crampons with me and decided to give it a shot. It probably went AI 1+ (maybe 2). I took my time and made sure every placement was perfect. I never got sketched and I felt that I was safe the whole way up. Really, when have you ever fallen on ice within your ability when on lead? I suspect that when focused, alert and confidant the chance of falling is slim on ice. Maybe I'm just fooling myself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishstick Posted April 25, 2003 Share Posted April 25, 2003 Solo TR on ice is a really effective way to experiment with techniques, not to mention get an effective pump. Try using a microcender. Try it at night. Oregon Jack might be a great objective if you can find a trail to the top and own a 60m rope. GB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fence_Sitter Posted April 25, 2003 Share Posted April 25, 2003 TG that has to be the greatest quote i have ever heard! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jason_Martin Posted April 25, 2003 Share Posted April 25, 2003 icegirl said: Didn't some guy fall about 3 years back soloing on the cable out at Banks Lake? Broke himself real bad and crawled to the road (not really that far if you know the area) I think he was on H202 and from what I understand he was leading rope solo. When he fell, his device did not catch on the rope. The rumor was that his device didn't bite on the icy rope... Like icegirl said, I understand that he was injured severly. I even recall something about a coma... Anybody know what happened to that guy? Did he make it? I looked for it in Accidents in North American Mountaineering and didn't see it. Jason Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don_Serl Posted April 28, 2003 Share Posted April 28, 2003 how can u possibly imagine u won't meet ice climbers in kamloops. the outdoor education dept in cariboo college is full of them. phone iain stewart-patterson. and there are "citizen" climbers in kamloops too. call up garry brace. and people are coming up from vancouver every weekend. tons of possibilities... cheers, don Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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