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luetholds (for real this time)


ivan

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tried this one at night a few months ago w/ pete but ended up climbing the reid hw in the dark instead...this time went up w/ a newbie who didn't feel like trying the sandy. deep soft shitty fucking snow the whole way above the lift, luckily drafted in a party of 4's tracks up to i-rock. hopped ahead of said group from there and we lead the whole route. same crappy snow. no slots on the reid. evidence of recent slides down luetholds. sketchy slab feeling underfoot up the whole coulior. irritating trying to find anything not soft on the way up. looking back from the top of the ridge, a continous knee deep trench, no footsteps apparent, the whole fucking way. escewed the summit with its hordes and descended part of the crater wall. 'schrund is out for its spring feeding now. victory joint on the hogsback. fumeroles seemed way more active than usual. ran down the whole south side smiling my private wasted little smile at all the folks sweating it up the palmer in the soup. 10 hour drug hazed roundtrip nooncapped w/ some climbing at a very soggy french's dome. recommend top of dome for sun-drenched nap w/ pristine view of the sandy hw and yoakoms, just don't roll off in your sleep.

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It didn't sound like much fun. A fair amount of new snow must have fallen last week. Grunting it up deep snow is good training for what's up coming for you. Having a 60lb sled tugging at your waist would have completed the Denali workout. It was much more pleasent at smithy.

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what'dya climb at smithy, pete? from the vantage of the summit, bend looked like it was pretty warm...

 

ya, sisters folks, what happened to your adventure. while smoking down on the hogsback i couldn't help but feel content that my day was done whilst your's was only halfway there...

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ivan said:

i couldn't help but feel content that my day was done whilst your's was only halfway there...

bigdrink.gif

ironic, i believe cletus and i looked up at north/middle sisters and said something just like that, whats the scoop fellas! This weekend was a gem indeed. its raining in central OR today, and is going to stay that way most of the week

 

very warm and soggy at 6500 here

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saturday or sunday? there was a group that came up just behind us on luet's saturday that had plans to do sandy on sunday, after camping at i-rock...they traversed almost all the way over to castle crags before downclimbing

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that would probably be them. that area was probably the most dangerous spot on the mountain besides wy'east this weekend and sure enough there were a bunch of crown fractures all along the rim up there. oh and low and behold, some tracks coming down from castle crags. yellaf.gif

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yeah, enjoying my sumptous lunch fare of tunafish strait out da foil pack, looking at those guys climbing face in down that big open, steep slope, i felt far more in touch w/ the voice of me mama...actually, having never ascended the crater rim w/ a knowledgable person, i may have descended something different. basically we started at the cathedral ridge end of the summit ridge and went strait down, sticking underneath the big, feathered bulges where possible...a good bit of traversing....ended up not too far from the 'schrund....the portion towards castle crags looked much steeper and stupidier (a word?)

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