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i finaly climbing the fucker. stupid boulder problem. epic topout onto lichen covered choss complete with broken beer bottle shards above a 15 foot drop to baby sized rocks below. prolly like v4. ooh yea! rolleyes.gif

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"Things went OK up through the second move, but I apparently got off route at the 'obvious gaston', and wound up on some grievous sloping crimps with bad footholds instead of the easy pockets that led to the finishing jug and topout. Chalking up and taking stock of the situation, it was clear that the moves were irreversible, and I was already nearly 4' off the deck. Given the relatively short approach, we had foolishly left the bivy gear back at the trailhead, nearly two minutes away. Dammit! Requesting that my spotter take some weight, I attempted a perilous traverse involving an undercling and the dreaded "Egyptian", followed by a tenuous deadpoint. I thought I was in the clear when a foot slipped off one of the grievously un-brushed off-route footholds, and I went plummeting to the crashpads hundreds of centimetres below. I had sustained a scrape to the left forearm, and a slightly bruised heel, adding a sense of urgency to our already thoroughly urgent situation (a lesser man might have called it desperate, but I am not a lesser man).

 

The full gravity of the situation soon set in, however, as I would not be able to carry a crash pad back to the trailhead with my bruised heel, and attempting to hoist the chalk pot was chafing my scraped arm. Luckily, my partner bravely offered to shoulder both pads AND the chalk, and gave me the last of his Red Bull for the near-hundred yard hike back to the car. Of course, we weren't out of the woods yet, as even if we could make it to the car, medical attention was a good five minute drive away, and I was worried that my mangled forearm might bleed enough to stain my new Prana shirt (a rather natty khaki and sky blue number from the new Spring line). We plodded on to the trailhead and our car, and somehow made it out, despite taking nearly three minutes instead of the usual sub-two.

 

I eased into the passenger's seat, gingerly resting my bruised heels on my 900-fill down jacket, and fished my cell phone out of the glove box. Our late retreat from that hulking citadel back in the forest had prompted some concern on the part of my mother, who had called in a panic, mentioning that she had made my favorite Chef Boyardee ravioli, and had bought me a Vanilla Coke which was now getting warm even as my ravioli was getting cold. Shit and dammit! Things were getting perilous and blah blah blah ..."

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