lummox Posted April 11, 2003 Posted April 11, 2003 i finaly climbing the fucker. stupid boulder problem. epic topout onto lichen covered choss complete with broken beer bottle shards above a 15 foot drop to baby sized rocks below. prolly like v4. ooh yea! Quote
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted April 11, 2003 Posted April 11, 2003 Here, why don't you shut the fuck up, log off this board, and don't come back. Mmkay? Toodles! Quote
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted April 11, 2003 Posted April 11, 2003 "Things went OK up through the second move, but I apparently got off route at the 'obvious gaston', and wound up on some grievous sloping crimps with bad footholds instead of the easy pockets that led to the finishing jug and topout. Chalking up and taking stock of the situation, it was clear that the moves were irreversible, and I was already nearly 4' off the deck. Given the relatively short approach, we had foolishly left the bivy gear back at the trailhead, nearly two minutes away. Dammit! Requesting that my spotter take some weight, I attempted a perilous traverse involving an undercling and the dreaded "Egyptian", followed by a tenuous deadpoint. I thought I was in the clear when a foot slipped off one of the grievously un-brushed off-route footholds, and I went plummeting to the crashpads hundreds of centimetres below. I had sustained a scrape to the left forearm, and a slightly bruised heel, adding a sense of urgency to our already thoroughly urgent situation (a lesser man might have called it desperate, but I am not a lesser man). The full gravity of the situation soon set in, however, as I would not be able to carry a crash pad back to the trailhead with my bruised heel, and attempting to hoist the chalk pot was chafing my scraped arm. Luckily, my partner bravely offered to shoulder both pads AND the chalk, and gave me the last of his Red Bull for the near-hundred yard hike back to the car. Of course, we weren't out of the woods yet, as even if we could make it to the car, medical attention was a good five minute drive away, and I was worried that my mangled forearm might bleed enough to stain my new Prana shirt (a rather natty khaki and sky blue number from the new Spring line). We plodded on to the trailhead and our car, and somehow made it out, despite taking nearly three minutes instead of the usual sub-two. I eased into the passenger's seat, gingerly resting my bruised heels on my 900-fill down jacket, and fished my cell phone out of the glove box. Our late retreat from that hulking citadel back in the forest had prompted some concern on the part of my mother, who had called in a panic, mentioning that she had made my favorite Chef Boyardee ravioli, and had bought me a Vanilla Coke which was now getting warm even as my ravioli was getting cold. Shit and dammit! Things were getting perilous and blah blah blah ..." Quote
catbirdseat Posted April 11, 2003 Posted April 11, 2003 Just when it seemed that DFA was losing his touch, he comes out with a gem to reaffirm his place in the firmament of spraymasters. Quote
erik Posted April 11, 2003 Posted April 11, 2003 dfa, with some high res digi images, that could be the center piece of the next alpinist! Quote
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted April 11, 2003 Posted April 11, 2003 DFA is just hoping Dwayner and Pope will notice so he can earn some much needed trad cred, and maybe get them to sponsor him with some old drilled-out hexes on 8-mil Perlon and perhaps some pointers on being more caustically cynical. Quote
iain Posted April 11, 2003 Posted April 11, 2003 caustic cynicism is not found in "freedom of the hills" and is an advanced skill Quote
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted April 11, 2003 Posted April 11, 2003 See? A lad needs mentoring in order to master the finer points of traditional climbing as Yvon Chouinard intended it (or is he too new school?). Quote
lummox Posted April 11, 2003 Author Posted April 11, 2003 i still get pumped thinking about it all. Quote
lummox Posted April 12, 2003 Author Posted April 12, 2003 heell yeaa! took second in a little bike club mtn bike race. won a $25 certidicate to ruby tuesdays. that's a lotta fucking ribs. Quote
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