Lambone Posted April 9, 2003 Share Posted April 9, 2003 I like classic climbs, I hope to do as many as possible. Although more obscrue stuff is cool too, but for a different reason. Just don't go on a weekend during prime season. And if you do then don't complain about the crowds, cause it was your choice to be there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted April 9, 2003 Share Posted April 9, 2003 TimL said: I've only climbed Lib Crack once using the standard route. I thought there were a couple good pitches and a couple bad in the second hlaf but I was a little dissapointed as well in comparing it to the first half of the route. If you compare it to your typical mountain route, then yes it has many good pitches in comparision to bad. Nevertheless, its a good route. True there are better routes in the area but we should all be glad there is not a line up on those as Liberty Crack. PMS - Sounds like I'll have to do the direct this summer. Whats different then the regular route? So I'd like to know what routes off the pass people think are better than Lib Crack? As dissapointing as the 2nd half of the route is its still long and rather sustained. Other routes in the area are not. East But of South Early has three good pitches but that's really it. Any route on the west side of the spires are too short. I've never done Thin Red Line, maybe that's the one to do. Any other suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted April 9, 2003 Share Posted April 9, 2003 In my opinion, please note its just that with no specific approach to choosing the better climbs besides my experience, I thought both E Butt of SEWS and NW Corners of NEWS were both super good routes in the same classic category as Lib Crack. Very fun with good climbing. But I bet there are some other good ones out there. Specialed, we'll have to search for them this summer! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pms Posted April 9, 2003 Share Posted April 9, 2003 I've heard some good things about the south face of Kangaroo. Supposed to be good rock and steep. Also there is lots of good looking rock between the east butt. and the south arete of SEWS. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted April 9, 2003 Share Posted April 9, 2003 pms said: Also there is lots of good looking rock between the east butt. and the south arete of SEWS. That's for sure. Its crazy steep and not very featured tough. I wonder if any of those routes on the north side of Lib Bell are any good like the Barber Pole? Tim, we'll go be successfull on clean break this year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pms Posted April 9, 2003 Share Posted April 9, 2003 If you were unhappy with the climbing on the second half of liberty crack, you probably won't love the north face routes on liberty bell. I'm not saying they're not fun. The NW face has some very good rock, shorter but good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimL Posted April 9, 2003 Share Posted April 9, 2003 I think its the Passenger that BB put up between the South Arete and E Butt? It looks really good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChocChick Posted April 9, 2003 Author Share Posted April 9, 2003 Thanks all for your opinions. There are so many great routes out there to climb. Maybe all the classics would be worth it, maybe not. Who knows - it's a goal. Vertical movement is all good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j_b Posted April 9, 2003 Share Posted April 9, 2003 So I'd like to know what routes off the pass people think are better than Lib Crack? As dissapointing as the 2nd half of the route is its still long and rather sustained. Other routes in the area are not. East But of South Early has three good pitches but that's really it. Any route on the west side of the spires are too short. I've never done Thin Red Line, maybe that's the one to do. Any other suggestions? in addition to what has already been mentioned, I really like Tooth and Claw on Lexington or even the standard East Face on same. The climbing is thin and sustained, and in a great position. Granted it is not quite as long as East. face of Lib. Bell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dberdinka Posted April 9, 2003 Share Posted April 9, 2003 OK, really, I'm not out to stir the pot. But there was some..uhh..pointed discussions quite a while back about a new line put up on the east face of South Early. I think at one point I heard 5.13 then somebody told me 10-. Regardless, last summer I'm pretty sure the line was an obvious series of scrubbed streaks maybe 100 yards over from the East Buttress. It looked nice! Any details to be shared? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mattp Posted April 9, 2003 Share Posted April 9, 2003 Both "stories" may be correct. I heard that somebody told another somebody and then I think they posted it here on cc.com that it was 5.hard but if you yarded on bolts at the cruxes it would go at 5.10. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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