kevin Posted March 31, 2003 Posted March 31, 2003 I went to BOB wall in leavenworth on sat and tried to climb the 5.10a undercling/lieback crack. I forget the name, but its really obvious if you've been there. Goatboy and I got totally humbled by what I now think may be the hardest 10a in existance. Anyone out there climbed this crack before? what did you think? Is there just some trick I was missing? Quote
Dru Posted March 31, 2003 Posted March 31, 2003 I saw one of Squamish's stronger female climbers flail away at that thing for hours unsuccessfully. It's "Bob's Second Crack" I think. 10a, Quote
glen Posted March 31, 2003 Posted March 31, 2003 Is that rating kind of like the one for "Generator Crack" at Yos? Quote
Wallstein Posted March 31, 2003 Posted March 31, 2003 I would totally agree, that thing is more like 11+ on lead. Even on toprope I think I got totally shut down. I scored a bunch of webbing and some biners from the top of it though. Quote
Peter_Puget Posted March 31, 2003 Posted March 31, 2003 It is definately an error. It is more like 5.11c/d for a lead. The "hole" out on the face is a pretty cool feature. As I remember the crack is abrasive too! I'd say 3 star except that it doesn't have easy access. PP Quote
klar404 Posted April 1, 2003 Posted April 1, 2003 uh, I am DEFINATLY not a very strong climber. But 11+ or c/d? THe dude I was with could lead/hangdog up the thing after a while. And I got it toprope after a couple of hangs. This was when I was climbing 10ish on lead as opposed to Mt. Couch right now.The climb didn't feel any harder than Even Steven at Index and thats 11b and a heck of a lot longer. But, it has been a couple o' years. Quote
Peter_Puget Posted April 1, 2003 Posted April 1, 2003 I think the key is w/o hangs and being on lead. One challenge with the BOB route is not filling your jams with your pro. In addition if you are leading it onsight you can't see much of the crack after it turns up so you have to be mor ego for it. On tr with a hang you can check the crack out. Quote
Wallstein Posted April 1, 2003 Posted April 1, 2003 For me hanging on something makes it hard for me to grade, a short hang can make something feel way easier than it really is. As opposed to climbing something without falling where I have a good idea as to who hard it was. I said 11+ because I fell on lead and did it without hanging on toprope but maybe it was hot and greasy the day i did it. Quote
meditate001 Posted April 1, 2003 Posted April 1, 2003 So what was the weather like? It sounds like the rock was dry...how were the trails to the climbs? Thanks! Quote
kevin Posted April 1, 2003 Author Posted April 1, 2003 CLAonlead said: So what was the weather like? It sounds like the rock was dry...how were the trails to the climbs? Thanks! The weather was great last weekend, comfortably cool and mostly sunny. We climbed on icicle butress, BOB wall and castle rock and most everything was dry. Pretty close to perfect climbing conditions in my book. Quote
Retrosaurus Posted April 1, 2003 Posted April 1, 2003 Peter_Puget said: ... I'd say 3 star except that it doesn't have easy access. PP Hmm. I see. Lack of easy access complicates posing and detracts from the quality of your climbing experience. Quote
erik Posted April 1, 2003 Posted April 1, 2003 Retrosaurus said: Peter_Puget said: ... I'd say 3 star except that it doesn't have easy access. PP Hmm. I see. Lack of easy access complicates posing and detracts from the quality of your climbing experience. mitch that is a good thing. and why want to climb something to access another climb instead of walking 5 minutes? Quote
Peter_Puget Posted April 1, 2003 Posted April 1, 2003 You crack me up Retro! My fans and the photags follow me everywhere! For those unaware the route is about 30' long. Well maybe 35'. In anyrate it is quite short. The description "three star except that it doesn't have easy access" is a pretty revealing one! PP Quote
Szyjakowski Posted April 1, 2003 Posted April 1, 2003 Retrosaurus said: Peter_Puget said: ... I'd say 3 star except that it doesn't have easy access. PP Hmm. I see. Lack of easy access complicates posing and detracts from the quality of your climbing experience. yeah peter purgeit is right...climbing icicle butt to get to BOB wall is sucky,,,there should be chair lift or something....perhaps helicopter drop offs....every hour on the hour.......... Quote
Peter_Puget Posted April 1, 2003 Posted April 1, 2003 Szy - Think big. A new road and parking lot. Think of the car shuttle from the top of IB to the bottom! PP Quote
Szyjakowski Posted April 1, 2003 Posted April 1, 2003 Peter_Puget said: Szy - Think big. A new road and parking lot. Think of the car shuttle from the top of IB to the bottom! PP WE NEED FUKIN GONDOLAS MAN Quote
Peter_Puget Posted April 1, 2003 Posted April 1, 2003 Up to the Mole and Yellow Jacket Tower! Don't forget Midnight Rock! Quote
Alex Posted April 1, 2003 Posted April 1, 2003 I think a Gondola to Prussik Pass or Colchuck Lake would be in order. If it ran only in winter, it would mitigate the impact on the area, too Quote
Retrosaurus Posted April 1, 2003 Posted April 1, 2003 C'mon, we know all you really need is a few sports bras in attendance or a web cam. Quote
Szyjakowski Posted April 1, 2003 Posted April 1, 2003 Peter_Puget said: Up to the Mole and Yellow Jacket Tower! Don't forget Midnight Rock! we dont need one to midnight cause you can already drive to the top of tumwater and then free ride down on your mtbike or motorbike....Actually truestory: Ltown almost got a gondola to the top of Icicle Ridge but the '94 fireseason put that on indefinite hold.... Quote
goatboy Posted April 1, 2003 Posted April 1, 2003 Here's an image of me flailing on the "10a." Hope Viktor gives it a more appropriate rating in the new guidebook. I would love to see someone actually send this thing in good style. I didn't. IPA at Gustav's sure was good though. Anyone know when the new L-worth guidebook is coming out? Viktor? Quote
Szyjakowski Posted April 1, 2003 Posted April 1, 2003 you know, I think Viktor told me there is a secret squirrel hold somewhere to make this Ten-A. Quote
lunger Posted April 1, 2003 Posted April 1, 2003 took a good whipper on that one last summer--even if you pull through the hard moves, your pumpin' arms must contend with some gritty shite afore you hug that tree. humiliated--definitely some unfinished business there. short, but a good climb if you are leading 10+/11-. i didn't find any 'secret squirrel holds'. goatboy, let's see that pic. Quote
Peter_Puget Posted April 1, 2003 Posted April 1, 2003 Did you provide him with a better rating? If not, it still might not be too late. PP Quote
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