snoboy Posted March 17, 2003 Posted March 17, 2003 chucK said: What about stuff above a sequence of bodyweight-only stuff? You mean like bolts? Quote
Dru Posted March 17, 2003 Author Posted March 17, 2003 snoboy said: chucK said: What about stuff above a sequence of bodyweight-only stuff? You mean like bolts? its where you make sure your partner leads those pitches while you kick back with tunes and bud. Quote
rbw1966 Posted March 17, 2003 Posted March 17, 2003 snoboy said: I bounce my hooks sometimes. Gently! DFA I was tauhgt to bounce the s$%^ out of stuff. The idea is that if you really load a piece then you know it will hold a fall if the next piece blows while testing it. Otherwise you never really know, and you get higher and higher wondering if any of the stuff below is any good at all??? Then you test less and less, and eventually you blow a piece. I dunno about new wave sick aid stuff though. I've heard arguments back and forth about bounce-testing. I saw a video of some ladies climbing a wall in Zion (Steph Davis?) and she was bounce testing those pieces so hard I cringed. I bet those babies were welded in place--I felt sorry for the second. My thoughts are that you never bounce test gear on a free-climb lead so why on Aid? I'll give it a sturdy couple of tugs but don't bounce the shit out of it unless I am getting ready to do a few hook moves or place some marginal pro higher. If it holds my weight chances are it will hold my fall. I've GENTLY bounced on hooks though to see how secure they are--with my head turned and my hand over it. Thats some scarey shiite. Quote
Dru Posted March 17, 2003 Author Posted March 17, 2003 but on a free climb, 1)if everything goes right you dont even weight any of your pieces, 2) you only put in gear where there are good places for it not every bodylength as you advance. the only pc. aside from hooks i dont bounce, are bomber cams (eg placed in a solid fist crack not in a flake) and nuts sloted eeep in constrictions etc. everything else that isnt bodyweight is potentially suspect and tested especially on new ground now if sending an established route you can trust that more of the flakes and edges and stuff are solid just cause they are still there, and you can spot old scars and re use them rather than digging thru moss lookingfor a crack... Quote
fern Posted March 17, 2003 Posted March 17, 2003 My thoughts are that you never bounce test gear on a free-climb lead so why on Aid? maybe a more appropriate analogy though is how much would you test a rappel anchor? What is your exposure and the consequence if the piece DID fail? Factor 2 falls free-climbing are rare, Factor-2 daisy falls aid climbing are pretty easy to set up. Whatever. You can't learn to aid climb safely by reading about it written by gapers on the internet. Quote
Dru Posted March 17, 2003 Author Posted March 17, 2003 i saw "the old guy" bounce test a Tri Cam on the last pitch of Rock On; I dont think he'd ever placed one before!!! Quote
rbw1966 Posted March 17, 2003 Posted March 17, 2003 fern said: maybe a more appropriate analogy though is how much would you test a rappel anchor? What is your exposure and the consequence if the piece DID fail? Factor 2 falls free-climbing are rare, Factor-2 daisy falls aid climbing are pretty easy to set up. Whatever. You can't learn to aid climb safely by reading about it written by gapers on the internet. I agree your analogy may be more a propos although I rarely use a one-piece anchor for rappel. Even so I can't think of a single time I have ever seen anyone bounce test an anchor. Good point about the factor 2 falls though--ouch. The only piece I have ever had pop was a hook though so maybe I've been lucky. And yeah, I am a gaper all right. Quote
iain Posted March 17, 2003 Posted March 17, 2003 Dru said: i saw "the old guy" bounce test a Tri Cam on the last pitch of Rock On; I dont think he'd ever placed one before!!! that's fun cleaning Quote
erik Posted March 17, 2003 Posted March 17, 2003 i personally dont bounce test anything less then c2+/a3 c1, ao, a1 should all be bomber...regardless... spending too much time over thinking placements in my opinion is not good aid... Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted March 17, 2003 Posted March 17, 2003 Everything is A1 until you fall. But really - I dont bounce test gear often. If I want to test it I yank on it and then slowly step in it most of the time. Bounce test is ok I guess... More mindless spray come on... Free climbing I only yank test stoppers to make sure they are not going to lift\fall out. Other than that I just go for it. Ground falls hurt sometimes. I wish I could have had some movie cameras nearby the times I've either taken on or seen one to capture the even. Mucho humor Quote
Dru Posted March 17, 2003 Author Posted March 17, 2003 iain said: Dru said: i saw "the old guy" bounce test a Tri Cam on the last pitch of Rock On; I dont think he'd ever placed one before!!! that's fun cleaning he got one of my TCUs stuck on the crux pitch cause his arthritis wouldnt let him clench his hand enough to take it out but sweet talked the two chics leading up behind us to get it out for him... "Yeah when we did the Buttress back in 59 I cant remember if we went up this crack or not" looking at Memorial Crack 'What does it say in the guidebook?" Quote
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