Mer Posted March 5, 2003 Share Posted March 5, 2003 Just thinking about the upcoming change in seasons and the transition from ice to rock. After climbing ice all winter do you anticipate being strong and having a really steady head when leading? I tend to have less pro in an ice pitch than in an equivalent rock pitch so you’d think it would help with feeling calm when way above gear. Yet last year it was the opposite for me, I may have been strong, but when I got on the rock it felt so unwelcoming that I was totally sketchy. I missed the feeling of being attached to the ice and just felt like I was going to slither off the rock any second. Eventually it went away, but it was a strange sensation. Does anyone else feel weird for a while when switching mediums? Maybe I should just boulder for a day or two till I’m over it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted March 5, 2003 Share Posted March 5, 2003 Climbing in the gym (if possible) during the winter is good that way you stay used to climbing without tools and poons. And your fingers stay somewhat strong. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted March 5, 2003 Share Posted March 5, 2003 i dunno i have been lucky to always keep climbing rock during the winter. wheter it be a road trip, a perfect week at index or what.... balance my friend!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mer Posted March 5, 2003 Author Share Posted March 5, 2003 Small town, no gym! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted March 5, 2003 Share Posted March 5, 2003 ice climbing you are leashed to portable jug holds called "tools" all day long rock climbing is much less secure especially slabs and crimpers require technique not found ice climbing mentally just focus on the afterwards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted March 5, 2003 Share Posted March 5, 2003 Mer said: Small town, no gym! If no gym and no opportunity to climb rock during the winter just have to suck it up and appreciate the fact that you got a lot of days on the ice this winter!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JayB Posted March 6, 2003 Share Posted March 6, 2003 I was expecting to feel super confident on rock after getting a lot of ice in during my first season, but I actually felt weaker and more tweaked out on my return to rock than I had at the tail end of the previous season of rock. While I knew that some of the ice that I had climbed was objectively more dangerous than the rock routes I was getting on, the physical differences between the two overwhelmed any sense of confidence or comfort I might have gained from this knowledge. My forearms were weaker, I hadn't had to trust tiny crimpers and edges in a long time, it was taking me two and three tries to grab the right gear, etc. Maybe if I had done both all winter it would have been different, but as things were having spent some time on ice just really didn't help my rock climbing at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Necronomicon Posted March 6, 2003 Share Posted March 6, 2003 Shouldn't be a problem. I haven't done shit all winter, except approach out-of-condition climbs. Both pitches of ice that I have climbed shouldn't make me suck any worse on the rock. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freeclimb9 Posted March 6, 2003 Share Posted March 6, 2003 Why "transition from ice to rock"? There's some amazing alpine routes that are coming into shape. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted March 6, 2003 Share Posted March 6, 2003 But stability wise the best alpine near Sam Narm wont be real good until Mayish, I think...? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted March 7, 2003 Share Posted March 7, 2003 I climb from rock to ice with a handfull of pitons usually. It's fun. Just when you think you got the hang of rock climbing in all your winter gear you have to switch. If you really go out and challenge yourself you'll find there is no need to worry about transfering problems with 'exposure'. If you dont trust your gear well.......... I guess you have a different dilemna than ice skills transferring to rock dont ya Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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