Epic Scrambles

[lvscramblingman]

I am looking to do some peaks in the N. Cascades. I climb class 4 peaks in Red Rock national conservation area outside of Vegas regularly. Almost weekly. I have climbed three class four peaks in glacier national Park.  A couple in the Sierras and did Capital in Colorado. 

I would be up for day climbs or even some back country where we could tag a few peaks in the area. For me. It's all about amazing views on top. And I love challenges. I will admit I am not overly skilled with ice or snow climbing. I'm just a very good scrambler. Though I have done some.

 

Any suggestions would be very much appreciated and possible suggestions for places to camp nearby as I will be setting up a trip for a group. All very experienced advanced scramblers. 

Also anybody wanting to come enjoy my amazing peaks here in Vegas I have a hiking group here and I'm always willing to reciprocate. 

I'm looking at the last week of August or the first week of september-ish. My schedule is open. But that's the time I come up to Washington to visit family. 

 

Thanks

[JasonG]

That is a good time to do some scrambling for sure.  West Ridge of Columbia with a camp at Twin lakes would be a good two day adventure. Crater would be another with a camp at Crater Lake.  Thornton Peak is a good 1-2 day scramble, but permits can be hard to come by.  Corteo, Tomyhoi, West Ridge of North Twin, Del Campo, Vesper, and Sperry would be good one day options.   None will have much snow to contend with at that time of year.

You can buy copies of the Green and Red Beckey guides to provide info, or search the web for TRs.

[lvscramblingman]

Awesome, thank you for the information. I have been doing some research and I am looking at possibly doing both Sahale and Black. They both look epic.  Definitely looks like there's some glacier travel on them. I've seen videos of people going across them where they weren't connected and others where they were. What are your thoughts on that at that time of year? For those two peaks. I will research the other ones that you have listed and I really appreciate the feedback!! Once again, if you come down to Vegas area and want to do some epic climbs let me know. You can look me up on Facebook. My name is Rob Robinson. I have a hiking group called hiking friends on Facebook.

[JasonG]

Any snow left on Black or Sahale in late August or early September will be hard and not easy for someone without snow experience to travel across.  You will need ice axe and crampons and know how to use them.  You might be able to avoid the snow on Black, but not on Sahale. Roping up on either peak usually isn't necessary for those that are comfortable scrambling exposed 3rd or 4th class rock, but steep snow is no joke if you aren't familiar.  I would stay away from anything with snow, unless it is very low angle.  A slip usually ends very badly if you don't know how to self arrest.

Thanks for the offer Rob, looks like some cool scrambling down there!

[korengalois]

The standard route on black is trivial and shouldn't really be compared to Sahale imo. Sahale has a glacier and most teams rap off the top. 

[JasonG]

Good point on the summit blocks of the two mountains.  But Black can have some steeper snow to deal with lower down, depending on the snow year.  I guess I figured the OP knew his way around 4th class rock. 

Sahale isn't too bad to downclimb.... if you don't fall.

I guess I should say the same for Corteo.  A slip would be very bad.

[lvscramblingman]

Yes, we are all very experienced on class 4.  Though I have found the classifications to be different, it seems in every state. Class 4 in Red Rock is different than class 4 in the Sierras and class 4 in Colorado. Hell I did some class 4 in the glacier national Park and I thought it was class 5 and the class 3 really Should have been designated class 4 on a couple of peaks we did. Anyways. Yes, we're experienced on that. It's just the snow snow climbing that we are fairly new to. I have a friend here in Vegas who used to climb with Fred Becky back in the day.  When I asked him about Sahale He replied that he felt that glacier was fairly benign. Some people will do it with crampons and not roped up. Some with. He also mentioned that the beginning of that glacier was the steapest section and we would be able to assess the danger quickly.  

Now he also said he hasn't done it in 15 years and he's in his '70s now. But the man is very accomplished.

[JasonG]

1 hour ago, lvscramblingman said:

When I asked him about Sahale He replied that he felt that glacier was fairly benign. Some people will do it with crampons and not roped up.

Yeah, it isn't very crevassed or steep, but you could still slip and slide a long ways.  I usually haven't roped, but crampons will sometimes be needed depending on overnight temps.  It is a very scenic outing, but somewhat crowded (likely to be multiple parties on the route).