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Gym vs. Sport: Compare and Contrast


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Posted

Well, Pope, what are these solos? If you can't back up your statements nobody will believe you. Besides, what's a "average sport climber"? There are plenty people at Smith who don't climb 5.10 and have never placed gear.

Posted

JayB - Why does that pain you? Because it suggests he climbs hard? Or because the gym attracts such a large number of begininer climbers that crowd the place up while they are having a great time? Without regard to your pain, free soloing a route harder than the average gym rat can climb is hardly a brag worthy feat.

 

PP

Posted

It pains me because I have often wished that he was a weak, fatassed has-been that would get his ass smoked on a 5.9 clip-up at Exit 38 - but I have it on good authority that this is not the case madgo_ron.gifmadgo_ron.gifmadgo_ron.gifmadgo_ron.gifmadgo_ron.gifmadgo_ron.gifmadgo_ron.gifmadgo_ron.gifmadgo_ron.gifmadgo_ron.gifmadgo_ron.gif

Posted
Dru said:

pope said:

Dru said:

pope said:

RuMR said:

Peter Croft keeps his opinions to himself and wouldn't be caught dead spraying like you and dwayner did...

 

To paraphrase a politician (scary) "you, sir, are no peter croft"...

 

And, there are many well rounded climbers that will kick your ass in any domain, be it bolts, soloing, crax, etc.

 

So why the attitude? That is what everyone is responding too (at least me)...you think you're better than someone who clips bolts? Why?

 

And you, sir, can't seem to find an appropriate place to adopt a clever quote. Not once did I imply that I compare to Peter Croft (although perhaps more favorably than you).

 

You are such a dork. You answer Dwayner's assertion that bolting and sport climbing is ethically dubious by questioning his competence, as if to imply (as many people have) that those who oppose bolts are less than competent and, therefore, their opinions don't matter. I counter by saying that I oppose bolts and am fairly competent (while trying to be modest), and then you suggest that I think I am "better than somebody who clips bolts." Then you remind me that you know somebody who can climb better than I. Well, my dad can beat up your dad.

 

Peter Croft has been very vocal about sport climbing, both verbally and by the statement made in his bold approach to climbing.

 

Peter Croft bolts cracks in the Owens River gorge. hellno3d.gifhellno3d.gifmadgo_ron.gif

 

That's not real rock.

 

neither is smith or vantage! yellaf.gif

 

What, you just figured that out? bigdrink.gif

Posted

Let's all be friends. After a long standing ovation at Penn State Univ. Fred Rogers said:

 

"Thank you for your warm welcome. When we bow to one another, we bow to the eternal in all of us."

 

Would mutual respect be so bad?

PP bigdrink.gif

 

 

 

Posted
JayB said:

It pains me because I have often wished that he was a weak, fatassed has-been that would get his ass smoked on a 5.9 clip-up at Exit 38 - but I have it on good authority that this is not the case madgo_ron.gifmadgo_ron.gifmadgo_ron.gifmadgo_ron.gifmadgo_ron.gifmadgo_ron.gifmadgo_ron.gifmadgo_ron.gifmadgo_ron.gifmadgo_ron.gifmadgo_ron.gif

 

Jay,

 

You're turning out to be a pretty cool cat. A bigdrink.gif to you, brother Jay. You know, if I were pathetic, getting my 5.9 ass spanked on the bunny slab, I'd still think that the modern application of bolts in places like Vantage amounts to rock abuse, not entirely different than a chair lift on Mt. Rainier. And I'd be right.

Posted

And PP, a bigdrink.gif to you too, you little bitch. I think I'd like to get you all drunk and feed you some swinging HCL.gif.

 

Don't go changin'.

Posted

I thought the original post was funny, didn't take it as anything other than a joke. I'll admit it, I got a free 2 week membership at Vertical World and have gone half a dozen times or so. And it was fun. But I would definitely rather be climbing alpine. It being winter and midweek and all, the gym is much more convenient, and it is good training. I don't get too into the trad vs. sport ongoing grudge match, but tend more towards trad myself. I would say I feel sorry for anyone who's only climbing experience is in a gym, they are missing out on so much.

Posted

Uh...yeah...my wife's name is "Chris"...You are starting to expose yerself...since she's been outta climbing for a while, you've now stuck yerself in the old guard...

 

Nice slam, btw!! moon.gif

 

hahaha.gif

Posted
pope said:

JayB said:

It pains me because I have often wished that he was a weak, fatassed has-been that would get his ass smoked on a 5.9 clip-up at Exit 38 - but I have it on good authority that this is not the case madgo_ron.gifmadgo_ron.gifmadgo_ron.gifmadgo_ron.gifmadgo_ron.gifmadgo_ron.gifmadgo_ron.gifmadgo_ron.gifmadgo_ron.gifmadgo_ron.gifmadgo_ron.gif

 

Jay,

 

You're turning out to be a pretty cool cat. A bigdrink.gif to you, brother Jay. You know, if I were pathetic, getting my 5.9 ass spanked on the bunny slab, I'd still think that the modern application of bolts in places like Vantage amounts to rock abuse, not entirely different than a chair lift on Mt. Rainier. And I'd be right.

 

OK Pope...i'll put a tick by your name and credit for your point here, since you removed ability from your argument...Remember I'm not slamming anyone's ability until they start slammin'...

Posted

OK Pope...i'll put a tick by your name and credit for your point here, since you removed ability from your argument...Remember I'm not slamming anyone's ability until they start slammin'...

 

Exactly. I mean, one could imagine that a group of superior climbers might advocate carving finger cracks in the rock or building an escalator to replace the approach trail. I don't think we'd defer to their opinion just because they were competent.

 

Also, all of the name calling and cheap attempts at humor aside (guilty!), I think a well-placed bolt necessary to protect one or two sections of a great line can actually improve the climbing experience offered at a cliff. My gripe is that as a climbing community we seem to have difficulty putting on the brakes once the bolts begin to appear. If every crag had the character of climbing at Vantage or Exit 38 I would sell my gear.

 

Gym climbing, IMO, is great fun and fitness. I climbed in Seattle-area gyms for years.

Posted

Pope said:+

Exactly. I mean, one could imagine that a group of superior climbers might advocate carving finger cracks in the rock or building an escalator to replace the approach trail. I don't think we'd defer to their opinion just because they were competent.

 

Also, all of the name calling and cheap attempts at humor aside (guilty!), I think a well-placed bolt necessary to protect one or two sections of a great line can actually improve the climbing experience offered at a cliff. My gripe is that as a climbing community we seem to have difficulty putting on the brakes once the bolts begin to appear. If every crag had the character of climbing at Vantage or Exit 38 I would sell my gear.

 

Gym climbing, IMO, is great fun and fitness. I climbed in Seattle-area gyms for years.

 

Good God, Great Ballz-o-fire!! You actually might be reasonable!! And i pretty much agree w/ your comments about full tilt bolting (although i really enjoy sport climbing)...I'm guilty of a knee jerk reaction to Dwayner's first post...and went full tilt nasty...my bad....

 

Case in point for your arguments is what happened up at newhalem...Waaaay too many bolts placed waaaay too close (4' spacing...come on) right next to the road, and, what do you know, the area is now closed to new routing...

 

You still climbing in the gyms at all?? I'd think you'd want to pump the gyms to keep the climbers there and outta your way outside....

Posted
adventuregal said:

Can't we all just climb and be happy?! confused.gif Why all the animosity? Who cares what anyone else is doing or saying? You and the rock are all that matter...

 

Right on. Smoke the peace pipe HCL.gif. Anything goes. Who cares what the other guy does.......like, you know, if he bolts every square foot of Vantage, glues on a couple of plastic holds, spray paints his name and route name at the base of the wall, chips a few finger pockets, takes a big ol' crap on the belay ledge, plays his disgruntled-youth music loud enough to frighten the whistle pigs, throws his tape wads around.....Who cares? Why the animosity?

 

You still climbing in the gyms at all?? I'd think you'd want to pump the gyms to keep the climbers there and outta your way outside....

 

Gyms are harmless fun. I don't promote them because they seem to be crowded enough. I don't go because it's a long drive, but I do have a 12x12 deal in Pope's garage.

Posted

Case in point for your arguments is what happened up at newhalem...Waaaay too many bolts placed waaaay too close (4' spacing...come on) right next to the road, and, what do you know, the area is now closed to new routing...

 

 

Why is it closed to new routes? Who owns/manages it?

Posted
pope said:

Case in point for your arguments is what happened up at newhalem...Waaaay too many bolts placed waaaay too close (4' spacing...come on) right next to the road, and, what do you know, the area is now closed to new routing...

 

 

Why is it closed to new routes? Who owns/manages it?

 

Forest Service is studying "impacts"...actually a lot of the impacts are bouldering derived...Cleaning moss, using come-alongs to shift stuff (obviously big), etc...

 

For a little info... Not sure how up to date this is...

Posted

How is the climbing out there? Does it dry out quick? Ok by this time of the year if it's sunny? Slightly steep, like si? Are all the harder projects red-tagged, or open by now? And how is Andrew doing? Has he paved in a new parking lot, and built the tram yet? Is it easy to find ?

 

I thank you all in advance for your kindness in answering my questions.

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