[TR] Tamarack Meadows Climbing - Prusik (West Ridge), High Priest (North face), Mount Temple (West route) 09/07/2024

[JasonG]

Trip: Tamarack Meadows Climbing - Prusik (West Ridge), High Priest (North face), Mount Temple (West route)

Trip Date: 09/07/2024

Trip Report:

This seems like it has been the summer of obscure destinations for me.  Places I've long thought about going but never made happen.  Maybe it's because they're not top shelf destinations, but as I've aged and don't go as hard, I've increasingly found these sorts of trips fun because of the lack of traffic, because of the lack of beta, and how they've forced me back into to puzzling things out on the fly.  The climbs on the north side of Temple Ridge definitely fit into this category.  The dream of the 90's is alive!

Or at least that is how I sold it to @Trent, @cfire, @BrettS, John and Leslie a few months back.  And, minus the unanticipated smoke haze, I think it pretty much went off without too much drama.  An energetic approach to idyllic camps below our climbs, time to lounge after our short approaches and moderate climbs, plenty of chocolate, and no other parties around.  A great 4 day trip! 

I won't spoil your fun with beta overload, but here are a few photos to whet your appetite for up trip up Temple Canyon....

Snow Creek wall from the hike in:

Sow and cub seen at Nada lake:

Mild shenanigans to get up into Temple Canyon:

High Priest (on the right) from camp:

Heading to WR Prusik on Day 2 (still a classic- I hadn't climbed it in 24 years):

Looking down into the heart of the Core Zone a the start of the WR of Prusik:

John at a belay on the WR:

John and Leslie higher up:

A couple of me on WR Prusik:

@cfire on the summit of Prusik:

John and Leslie arrive at the summit:

Shield Lake Valley:

High Priest and Temple from Prusik:

@Trentwas over on McClellan while we were on Prusik:

Heading back to camp through Nada Pass, with Prusik above:

Camp life!

Night life!

Goat life!

Gearing up for High Priest North Face route (Beckey description works well, as does Mountaineers) :

@BrettS and Leslie on the North Face of High Priest:

Summit of High Priest looking over to Prusik and the peaks of the Core Zone:

Summit block of High Priest from descent:

We rapped off the standard High Priest descent and kept high, running the ridge over to Mount Temple.  Expect shenanigans, but it goes without undue hardship!

And then you have the great mid-fifth pitch to the summit of Mount Temple:

and the airy rap back down:

After descending Mount Temple, we admired the Meteor.  Supposed the crack on this west side is "5.12- or aid.  From it's top step right into a 5.10 off-width"

After a final night at camp, all that was left was to reverse the shenanigans getting back to Nada Lake, including a nice view of the Black Pyramid, The Professor, Comet Spire, and the Meteor (L-R):

:

 A lunch stop at Nada Lake to admire the reflections:

And arrival at Icicle Creek, relieved to find our drinks still hidden and cold!

Gear Notes:
Medium Rack to 2", helmet, 60m single rope, rock shoes

Approach Notes:
Core zone permit needed. Snow Creek trail to Nada lake. Go right at the second toilet and find a faint climber's trail leading up to a cliff band. Find a key ledgy 3rd class ramp that will take you up and right through the cliff band., Follow rib up and left and then up to where valley rolls off. Bits of tread lead up into Temple Canyon and then disappear. Follow your nose up the drainage to about 7200' where it opens up to good camping in Tamarack Meadows. An energetic and stimulating approach.