Mo 8501 Posted August 3 Posted August 3 12 hours ago, BretK said: It says here the toe is nothing but clean rock, and it's always sunny. Easy approach, too. Nice climb, guys. Like how you took your time with it. Some fantastic bivys. And you didn’t just romp up that after getting that close!? Wow does that look way more gnarly than I expected. Thanks for sending the pics Bret and Jason! On 8/1/2024 at 7:12 PM, John_Roper said: Will the first party to explore and successfully climb the Lower 40% of the “Full Mongo” from its toe in Goodell Creek to Fury top be “waking up the choss,” “add[ing] a thousand feet of vertical bushwhacking…?” Looking forward to the hands-on answer. I just want to share the Mongo experience with more people so others can know the magic of that ridge. Whether someone can do Wayne’s line in a single push, add to the ridge from below, or climb more of the gendarmes then I’m excitedly awaiting the report. However, just to live on that ridge for a time and truly appreciate its beauty without rushing through it is a life changing experience. Bivying on tower 3 should be a requirement. Quote
kThurner Posted August 3 Posted August 3 (edited) Sorry Wayne, no disrespect intended. In hindsight perhaps it's better to focus on celebrating the OP's achievement and leave undone climbs for some other thread. I'm not a climber and I don't really belong in that conversation in any case. Congratulations to the OP's on a fantastic climb! Edited August 4 by kThurner Hindsight 1 2 Quote
wayne Posted August 3 Posted August 3 (edited) You all are developing a toe fetish. Kidding!! Kevin! please repost that photo! As if that route needs to be longer! Edited August 14 by wayne Wrong photographer 1 Quote
John_Roper Posted August 8 Posted August 8 Wayne, Not my photo. Photographer did the right thing to end the thread drift. Quote
Mo 8501 Posted August 9 Posted August 9 On 8/3/2024 at 4:33 PM, wayne said: You all are developing a toe fetish. Kidding!! To be fair, there has been a long standing pole fetish; Mongo now has something for everyone. The rooster comb and pole are really what deserve some attention. I don’t know how you climbed the RC without knocking some huge blocks off like we did, Wayne. How is something like that created?? About the Pole, there’s a big gendarme that’s separating the RC from the pole and I was wondering if that would be considered part of the pole or not. We belayed from the notch in between the 2 (circled) for our route up the south side. That may have been what was referenced as the hypothesized 5.11 5-pitch headwall? On a ridge like this, when is one tower considered separate from another? On 8/3/2024 at 4:33 PM, wayne said: As if that route needs to be longer! Agreed! Although I welcome the challenge of our SKT. You’ll need to bring more salmon to win. 1 Quote
olyclimber Posted August 9 Posted August 9 “The Pole of Remoteness “ is a great name for a geographic feature. What can top that? 1 Quote
emilio taiveaho pelaez Posted August 9 Author Posted August 9 14 hours ago, Mo 8501 said: The rooster comb and pole are really what deserve some attention. I don’t know how you climbed the RC without knocking some huge blocks off like we did, Wayne. The Rooster Comb was definitely one of the coolest features I've ever seen, let alone actually get to be on... really improbable movement but the route just kept delivering! Overall I thought some of the loosest blocks we encountered on all of Mongo were on the RC, as most of the ridge actually had decent and deeply memorable rock quality. There are a couple of gorgeous gnarly gendarmes around the RC for future Picketeers to explore, most of which will require serious bouldering abilities to be taken on. In the photo below, you can see that the section between the RC and the Pole also has a labyrinth of routes that lead up to the gendarmes below the pole, there is a ton of exploratory climbing to be done there. Now, unclimbed gendarmes plus the toe.... pretty epic... can't blame anyone for developing that kind of fetish 😜 On the topic of climbing without knocking huge blocks, I'll also say I think some of the rock on Sawtooth Ridge in the Olympics was consistently looser than Mongo, especially since so many of our placements there felt totally psychological (Mo actually removed one of my stoppers by prying a sheet of basalt off with the pick of his ice axe...), whereas we actually had awesome gear (even if fairly runout) on the hard climbing of Mongo. In both cases I've been blown away by Wayne's choss wizardry and ability to do all that, onsight, without making the mountain crumble!! What an awesome and continuously inspiring standard to have set for Washington climbing. 1 Quote
Summit_Rolos Posted August 27 Posted August 27 Wow, what a fantastic trip! so fun to read, thank you for sharing it. 1 Quote
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