[TR] Glacier Peak - Cool Glacier 09/03/2022

[geosean]

Trip: Glacier Peak - Cool Glacier

Trip Date: 09/03/2022

Trip Report:

 

Me and @MGraw and figuratively everyone else did Glacier Peak over the long weekend. To avoid most of the crowds we did it on Saturday as a run. We started at 4:50am, summited at 12:30, and hit the TH again at about 6:45 for a c2c of just under 14 hours. We thought that was pretty good but it's 2.4 times the FKT. 

 

More importantly for those interested... The conditions update!: 

The trail has ample water sources everywhere until about .5 miles past glacier gap, then none except on the ice of the glacier if you want to hunt for it.

The trail is in excellent shape, recently brushed and re-graded to White Pass.

The Cool Glacier has a tough entry with some blue ice walking through a serac field. It's low tech (no overhead hazard, you're on top of the seracs). But not really protectable and probably best avoided if you've never walked on solid ice. Several parties turned abck at the look of it. We found it very doable in runners and aluminum crampons. After that there are some bridges, but it's grade 1 glacier wlaking. Personally I thought the boot pack was kind of unnecessary sketchy, crossing very close to exposed ends of cracks where, from a different angle, you could see it was overhung.

We took the far climbers left edge of the glacier immediately next to the rocks of the east ridge of Disappointment Peak. It was quite safe. 

The whole route is really pretty with great meadows, straightforward route finding, and a nice summit. A good time was had by all.

Now my legs hurt.

 

The boot pack goes from the farthest point of rocks about halfway from Mike's head to the ridgeline angling up left:

Gear Notes:
Aluminum crampons and axes, sneakers, Salomon advanced skin 12 packs.

Approach Notes:
Good water access all over, great trail, beautiful.

Edited September 5, 2022 by geosean

[Juan Sharp]

Great work.  Did you happen to see two young guys who turned back at the Cool Glacier?

[JasonG]

My legs hurt just thinking about all that distance and elevation gain!  Well done!

[olyclimber]

Quote

c2c of just under 14 hours. We thought that was pretty good but it's 2.4 times the FKT. 

That is crazy!

[geosean]

17 hours ago, Juan Sharp said:

Did you happen to see two young guys who turned back at the Cool Glacier?

Several parties turned back when they saw the exposed ice. We did briefly talk to some guys meeting that description about 3 miles from the car. We got high 5's as we ran by, trying hard to not stop and walk until we were out of sight.

[mountainsloth]

Wow! Epic Run!