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2021/2022 OR/WA Ice Conditions


ggres335
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  • 4 weeks later...

Eliot Headwall numerous ascents on last 6 weeks:

Uncertain if ice conditions high on Mt Hood are of interest in this forum  (long time listener/reader; first time caller/poster); but as it’s only a 4-6 hour walk up the south side and back down to the base of the headwall on north side…

friends of mine found good ice (relatively speaking: it is the alpine after all) and successfully climbed mcjury/Leuthold (right cirque) 1/24, the ravine up to cathedral spire col and then up the north ridge 2/13, and  pencil #2 on 2/26. 
 

my partner and I climbed wallace/Olson 2/18 and found much more ice there than was even reported in April 2021 when that route was felt to be quite fat and saw almost continuous ascents (please see the 2/18 TR). We then climbed mcjury/Leuthold on 3/6 finding somewhat less ice than our friends did in January.

i also see there is a TR from what appears to be Eliot Headwall left cirque on 2/13 but is mislabeled as wallace/Olson.

 

please be aware of the large avalanche on upper Eliot thought to have released around 2/28. You can see it’s crown in bottom left of photo. We found the slopes still very unconsolidated and wind-loaded on 3/6

first photo: “ current” appearance of #2 pencil and the ravine on 3/6

second photo: “current” appearance of mcjury/Leuthold exit on 3/6

third photo: zoom in of wallace/Olson chimney on 3/6. We didn’t go over there but looks like there could be a hole in the ice compared to our TR from 2/18. Note this is taken from base of mcjury/Leuthold notch and so is at an odd-angle and probably not how it would look from below.

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Edited by Ed-the-Ted
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  • 7 months later...

Incredibly fun mixed climbing with an occasional swing into icy cracks Wednesday Nov 2nd on the Beckey route on Liberty Bell. It's rather hard to find competent partners psyched on snow covered rock climbing, let alone who are also spontaneously free on Wednesdays, so I rope soloed the route. I thought I'd share a few photos of conditions in the pass. Send me a message if you're looking for a partner to scrape around on rock in the mountains this fall/winter.

 

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inspired by "Wednesday night alpinism"

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Edited by elispit
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