[TR] Mount Deception - Standard 06/20/2021

[KaskadskyjKozak]

Trip: Mount Deception - Standard

Trip Date: 06/20/2021

Trip Report:

 

We were back in the Olympics this weekend - this time for a three day trip up to the Royal Lake area.  Our three-person team included my son to help me celebrate Father's Day in the place where I like to be the most - in the mountains.  Kudos to him for mustering the energy after a mid-week trip to the Gardners with friend and a one-day rest in-between (ah, to be 19!!).

Not much to say about the approach - we took about four hours with a 30 min lunch break and arrived at 2.  We had read some recent TRs warning about shin deep puddles and several feet of snow about 4500', but that has melted.   The trail was almost snow free to the lake and most campsites were dry (two had some snow or a puddle in the platforms).

Sunday was our big day.  We headed up at 5:20 am, went to the upper basin, then picked a line up to the Deception-Martin saddle.   We mostly stayed on snow, and the upper rock bands - that are reported in some sources as very loose and dangerous class 3 - were almost all under snow.  The top consisted of 400 feet or so of snow  (45 degree slopes, sustained, +/- 5 degrees in places).   From the saddle we dropped down and left to the glacier, and traversed under Gilhooley tower, (the 'bypass' route).  We climbed to the ridge on the far side of Gilhooley and took the trail to the summit (mostly snow-free until the very top hundred feet or so).  Total time up was about 5:20.

Looking up the Deception-Martin saddle:

Steep snow just below the Deception-Martin saddle:

 

On the ridge near Gilhooley Tower:

Happy Father's Day to me (summit of Deception):

My son on the summit of Deception:

 

After enjoying the summit we retraced our steps until we hit ~6100' .  We then contoured above the upper Royal Basin to pick up Surprise Basin, and then ascended to the saddle at its top.  We were encouraged by the ledges - snow free - and headed up.  Unfortunately just before the final 100' or so, we hit a snow patch with very poor runout.  With it being late in the day (5:30) and the snow soft, we were not comfortable soloing this terrain, so we called it a day and headed back to camp (8:15).  We spent another night at camp and hiked out in the morning.

Upper Slopes of Surprise Basin:

The start of the ledges on Clark:

A short downclimb while traversing ledges around Clark:

The last bit - steep snow with poor run-out to cliffs:

Morning Reflection before we hiked out from Royal Lake on Monday:

Gear Notes:
Ice axe, crampons, helmet.

Approach Notes:
99% snow-free to Royal Lake. Mostly snow-covered beyond.

Edited June 22, 2021 by KaskadskyjKozak

[olyclimber]

it isn't tea bag up there

[KaskadskyjKozak]

10 hours ago, olyclimber said:

it isn't tea bag up there

tea bag?   Well, one old dude did go skinny dipping in the lake

[olyclimber]

 

great memory for me, camping on that boulder on the tarn august 2004

[KaskadskyjKozak]

34 minutes ago, olyclimber said:

great memory for me, camping on that boulder on the tarn august 2004

Yeah, it's an awesome place.  I will go back for sure.

[ryaneames]

When i was about 9 my dad did deception and had little me sitting at the col waiting haha, loved our camp at the lake. 

 

Heres some pics. Me glissading down, me and my brother headed up towards the col and then us at the col. I was 9 he was 11

[JasonG]

That is super impressive @ryaneames!  Both on your and your dad's parts!!  Wow.

[KaskadskyjKozak]

19 hours ago, ryaneames said:

When i was about 9 my dad did deception and had little me sitting at the col waiting haha, loved our camp at the lake. 

 

Heres some pics. Me glissading down, me and my brother headed up towards the col and then us at the col. I was 9 he was 11

This is awesome!   My son's first "interesting" alpine summit (and Bulger) was Cashmere.  He was 10 at the time and didn't look much different than you and your brother    Great to start the kids early - sure wish I had the opportunity myself growing up 

[olyclimber]

I remember taking my son (who had done nothing but travel baseball all the time) up the South Brothers col in the morning when it was super firm.  Was an interesting place for him to use crampons and an ice axe for the first time.  He did fine, but I did question my decision making for a couple minutes.  I mean, it wasn't that bad, but definitely and interesting experience for him especially since he had a broken hand. He was older than 9 though....

 

 

 

[JasonG]

That is a steep slope to learn french technique with a broken hand @olyclimber!!!

[olyclimber]

12 minutes ago, JasonG said:

That is a steep slope to learn french technique with a broken hand @olyclimber!!!

luckily once you get through the hour glass it was fine, and then was soft on the way back down.

[ryaneames]

On 6/24/2021 at 11:35 AM, KaskadskyjKozak said:

This is awesome!   My son's first "interesting" alpine summit (and Bulger) was Cashmere.  He was 10 at the time and didn't look much different than you and your brother    Great to start the kids early - sure wish I had the opportunity myself growing up 

My first was Sahale, Sister got named after it as well haha.

[Otto]

Nice trip report and photos, thank you for posting.