bedellympian Posted November 30, 2020 Share Posted November 30, 2020 Trip: Glacier NP - multipleTrip Date: 11/22/2020Trip Report: My buddy Lucas and I went to Glacier NP for Thanksgiving because, well, Canada is closed and we're supposed to avoid other people. We were pretty successful in avoiding other people, but the exploratory nature of climbing in Glacier, along with some heinous snow conditions, made getting to/on climbs hard. What I learned about approaches on this trip can be summed up this way... North Cascades bushwhack + maritime snow pack = no problem. Dry inland shrubbery + continental snow pack = some work, but doable. North Cascades bushwhack + continental snow pack = YER GUNNA HAVE A BAD TIME!!! (this is where we spent a lot of the week) We did get on a couple good climbs though, and I would recommend going to this area (though maybe when there are different snow conditions). The first climb we did was a gully on the NW face of Mt. Brown which rises over 5,000 ft right off the road. We climbed 3,000 ft of rolling WI2 steps interspersed with wallowing and capped by a nice 70m rope stretcher of WI4. This took us to the summit ridge and our only clear day at altitude with great views. The second climb we did was an ice flow called The Pig (1,000ft WI4+) in Avalanche Lake basin. The approach was pretty heinous despite the short distance due to the aforementioned snow over logs, boulders, slide alder, and devils club, but the climbing options are numerous and high quality up there. Both of these routes are in the Big Sky ice guide by Brunckhorst. We spent some more time hiking/skiing around but between snow pack and weather did not get on any other climbs. I would highly recommend this area to folks who are looking for an adventurous ice climbing venue. The approaches can be long but are not bad by North Cascades standards. We un-lucked out with the snow on our trip which did not come down to the road but was unconsolidated in deep wind pockets a couple thousand feet higher. This made approaches difficult whether you brought skis or chose to walk. I would look for drier early season conditions or full snow coverage in the future. That said, the booter to Avalanche Lake wall is in and the gate is open all the way to the TH until Dec 15. Let me know if you want beta! Gear Notes: Standard ice kit, plus some pins/nuts/slings if in doubt.Approach Notes: Wallow like a snow hippo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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