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Posted

Headed down to Ecuador to do >5,000m climbs for the first time.  I run cold even in the low lands, so thinking I should have double boots (that's what guide company recommends).

Problem is that i have small feet (women's 7, wears Scarpa 38.5) and literally NOBODY carries size that small for any serious mountaineering boots, let alone doubles.  Even online.

Has anyone had good experience with local (i.e. Puget Sound area) shops who are willing to place special orders? Shops manned by "Bruhs" usually just shrug and say "don't have your size" and that's that. 

Any recommendation? Am thinking of LS G2SM or Scarpa Phantom 6000. Looking for warm yet light....

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Posted

Jim Nelson at Pro Mountain Sports in the U district has special ordered a number of big ticket hard to get items for me.  That would be my first stop.

Posted (edited)

Two thick socks.  As I understand it, in the old days winter boots were uninsulated  leather sized to fit with two pairs of thick socks. Of course tech

climbing will be a bit harder.

Edited by DanO
Posted

Have you tried the American alpine institute shop in Bellingham?  When I used to work there, we would carry really small to really large feet boots and def order them if needed.

i find it interesting that there are shops staffed by “bruh “.   The current online vs brick and mortar shop business battle, customer service for physical shops is the advantage and only saving grace.  What has your experience been?

 

Posted

Thanks everyone for the suggestions. Jim Nelson’s reputation seems to be on the gruff side but considering his background that makes totally sense.  
Two thick socks... I only have 3 season boots (Scarpa Charmoz and Lowa Mtn Expert) this point, so I’m not sure that’ll be enough. 
I have not been to AAI shop In Bellingham. I may give it a try. Thanks for the tip! Perhaps because I’m a relative newbie to alpine stuff who doesn’t speak their lingo, I felt that some young bucks at a certain shop (which shall remain nameless) didn’t take me seriously. I’m sure experience would vary from shop to shop though. 

Posted

You could always call the shop before there to see if they would into a special order before wasting your time driving there.

how about feathered friends, right across from REI?

if the clerks don’t give you the service you need, you can always ask for the manager.  Not to bust their balls, but to get the ok for special order.

may be a bit far but may save you some money is to go to Vancouver, either MEC or some other retailer.

Posted

My wife found her single mountaineering boots, 6.5, on Sierra Trading Post, ordered several sizes to find the right one and sent the rest back for free.  Might try that option for doubles.  I also might look at back country ski boots.  The new ones climb just as well as old plastics.  Might have better luck finding small sizes locally as well since the bc ski market is bigger.

Posted (edited)

Basically get the smallest insulated boot and make it work with thick socks if needed.  5000 meters likely too cold for a unsulated boot but toe warmers or electric socks are a option.

Of course it would be better to have good fitting insulated boots. In the old days two thick socks with plain leather unsulated boots was an option for winter.  May want to carry extra dry socks, also synthetic socks dry out much faster than wool socks. Myself I use synthetic socks , leave on feet and they freeze a few hours while drying in the sleeping bag but dry and warm in a couple hours. I dont carry extra socks, but my trips out are only a few days. Wool socks will still be wet in the morning for me, if drying on feet and feet cold all night.

By the way make sure the boots are not too tight or will cut off circulation.

Edited by DanO

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