Lambone Posted February 8, 2003 Posted February 8, 2003 It seems like the new wave rating is a measure of how bad the fall would be. I think that is a pretty stupid way to rate something. A fall could be just as bad on C0 for a gumby who didn't know what the hell he was doing, or a pro on C4 who has shit dialed. Hell I'd rate anything that is straight of the deck C4 in that case. I've always gone by the difficulty of the placements. What kind of gear you need to use, and what kind of trickery do you need to get it to work. The quality of the rock is also a big factor. In my opinion: C0, is a bolt ladder. C1, is a bomber nut crack like City Park, sure it's easy but you still have to place and test your own gear. C2, requires smaller gear and the cracks start to flare out, throw in some hook moves. C3, your busting out the smallest peices on your rack...#00 HB offsets, Blue Ball-Nuts, scary hooking, inverted cam hooks, hand placed pins, two lobe cams, crumbling rock and expando shit, etc.. C4, sounds hard and scary....I've always pulled out the hammer at that point That is what I've allways gone by. I'd like to hear other opinions. The new wave thing seems more like an ego rating than a skill level rating. Quote
RURP Posted February 9, 2003 Posted February 9, 2003 This is RURP: You are all big-wall whiners. New-wave nothing! Just go out and do it and if it makes you cry, we don't want to hear about it. RURP has spoken. Quote
bigwalling Posted February 9, 2003 Posted February 9, 2003 Just don't fall and everything is ok. Index is a choss pile! Let us choss lovers have it to ourselves. Quote
ScottP Posted February 9, 2003 Posted February 9, 2003 In my opinion: C0, is a bolt ladder. I really hate to do this, but... Bolts aren't clean. The bolt ladder of City Park is A0. The crack of City Park is C0... about as straightforward steppin' in aiders as you can get without it being bolts you're clippin'. You are all big-wall whiners. New-wave nothing! Just go out and do it and if it makes you cry, we don't want to hear about it. It doesn't get much more eloquent than that. Quote
scott Posted February 9, 2003 Posted February 9, 2003 What is the consensus rating for Liberty Crack? I have heard C3 to A1. I think it is C1+ or C2. What about the Thin Red? Quote
Dane Posted February 9, 2003 Posted February 9, 2003 Liberty Crack was C1 in 1975 for crimmey sake....something change? Quote
scott Posted February 9, 2003 Posted February 9, 2003 The Smoot guide says its c3 or something. Quote
Lambone Posted February 10, 2003 Posted February 10, 2003 I really hate to do this, but... Bolts aren't clean. The bolt ladder of City Park is A0. The crack of City Park is C0... about as straightforward steppin' in aiders as you can get without it being bolts you're clippin'. Yeah well, whatever... Using that logic you could also say that climbing pin scars or copperheads isn't clean climbing either. I'n my opinion, if you leave no further trace, then you've done it as clean as can be. I was upon the Upper Wall today hanging out a hook, thinking I was all tough... Then I heard something falling. I thought, shit am I falling? No...oh fuck, ROCK. Then a loud whooosh an whooomp right behind me. I turned around and saw a big purple chute sailling out frome the wall. 30 seconds later his partner flew by. That was the coolest shit I've ever seen, and I imedeiately felt like a total wuss. Rapped down with my tail between my legs...I'm not worthy... cheers fellas Quote
erik Posted February 10, 2003 Posted February 10, 2003 well for all those nailing freaks.. one of the last lower town got it's (probably) first clean ascent. crazy jamie sent artifice on nasty cam hooks and beer! so does that mean, no one else can nail it right??? Quote
COL._Von_Spanker Posted February 10, 2003 Posted February 10, 2003 He seemed so calm...maybe that's why he's crazie jamie.... Quote
erik Posted February 10, 2003 Posted February 10, 2003 He seemed so calm...maybe that's why he's crazie jamie.... EXACTLY! Quote
Lambone Posted February 10, 2003 Posted February 10, 2003 Scketchy cam hooks tend to require a calm state of mind, and slooooow movements, and big nuts. Quote
ScottP Posted February 11, 2003 Posted February 11, 2003 Yeah well, whatever... Using that logic you could also say that climbing pin scars or copperheads isn't clean climbing either. I'n my opinion, if you leave no further trace, then you've done it as clean as can be. No, not whatever : History and consensus will show that bolt ladders are rated A0 and slotting nuts in pin scars would get a C rating. I agree with your opinion, however. Quote
erik Posted February 11, 2003 Posted February 11, 2003 Yeah well, whatever... Using that logic you could also say that climbing pin scars or copperheads isn't clean climbing either. I'n my opinion, if you leave no further trace, then you've done it as clean as can be. No, not whatever : History and consensus will show that bolt ladders are rated A0 and slotting nuts in pin scars would get a C rating. I agree with your opinion, however. link to history text please!! bolt ladders are a1 for fa'ers and clean for everyone else.... bolt ladders also should be kept in perfect condition as well, they are meant to link features and not to add to the route. now in what style the fa'er uses that is debatable. Quote
ScottP Posted February 11, 2003 Posted February 11, 2003 Correction: Bolt Ladders are A1 unless they are french-freed, then they are A0. Link Quote
Lambone Posted February 11, 2003 Posted February 11, 2003 (edited) AO, CO, A1...whats the freakin difference.... That is all I meant by "whatever." Baby aid isn't worth argueing about. Is that Jack Nicholson in your pick Scott? Or Hanibal Lector? Edited February 11, 2003 by Lambone Quote
ScottP Posted February 11, 2003 Posted February 11, 2003 AO, CO, A1...whats the freakin difference.... That is all I meant by "whatever." Baby aid isn't worth argueing about. Yeah, you're right. I guess my disdain for revision by opinion got the better of me. Sorry. I'll shut up now. Is that Jack Nicholson in your pick Scott? Or Hanibal Lector? Lector, I believe. Quote
matthewmc23 Posted February 14, 2003 Posted February 14, 2003 dude, Green Dragon is a classic. It's only a bit tougher than Town Crier due to the awkward leaning corner that is the crux (C2+) but these other folks are right, there is great gear everywhere and if you get sketched, bail opportunities are abound. I did it on 1/20/03 and found it to be KILLER! Leaving the belay for the crux pitch was the highlight for us. Bring a butt bag or bosuns chair, or whatever you prefer. A couple of the belays are steep. Oh, and make sure you have a couple hooks w/you. I used a leeper, a talon, and a cliffhanger. All were very handy. And when you get a chance, Davis-Holland/Lovin' Arms linkup is a real treat! Quote
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