JonParker Posted July 16, 2018 Posted July 16, 2018 Anyone done this approach this year? Or this time of year in the last couple years? I haven't found much info on it and I'm wondering what the rap anchors are like and if I should expect moat shenanigans. Appreciate any info. Quote
JasonG Posted July 16, 2018 Posted July 16, 2018 Should be better than this to access the toe of the route (late August 2012).... I would definitely expect shenanigans though. Quote
Rad Posted July 16, 2018 Posted July 16, 2018 Wow @JasonG, it looks like instead of rolling the dice you were climbing them. Quote
JonParker Posted July 17, 2018 Author Posted July 17, 2018 Thanks @JasonG that looks like no kinds of fun Quote
JasonG Posted July 17, 2018 Posted July 17, 2018 1 hour ago, JonParker said: that looks like no kinds of fun Full disclosure @JonParker, you can probably avoid the toe pictured above by rapping in from the west ridge notch (we came around the mountain and carried over, but a full spanning crack denied us entry to the buttress higher up). There is a ramp that comes in above where this photo was taken. Still, you will likely need two ropes and potentially an extra picket to get over the 'schrund from the pin anchor that @Blake and @Dannible reference in this TR. It is a tricky approach from the WRN, even in good conditions. Quote
dberdinka Posted July 17, 2018 Posted July 17, 2018 I made it in from the west ridge notch with a single 60 m rope years ago. I recall maybe two rappells on rock followed by another off a bollard and then maybe one off a picket to get to the ramp Jason mentioned. Definitely full on. I imagine it would be in no better or worse shape than ever. Quote
ccox42 Posted July 17, 2018 Posted July 17, 2018 We climbed the route yesterday by the Boston Glacier approach with a spectacular bivy at the north ridge notch. Getting onto the rock from the higher snow ramp was trivial with no moat or serac shenanigans. Here is a photo of the terrain below the west ridge notch taken from where we gained the rock. It likely would have saved us lots of time but I was glad to have taken the long route just for the incredible bivy. Have fun out there. 1 Quote
JasonG Posted July 17, 2018 Posted July 17, 2018 Sweet, sounds like now is the time. Going to post a TR @ccox42? Quote
AlpineK Posted July 20, 2018 Posted July 20, 2018 Back in the dark ages (1980s) we bivied at the north ridge notch then climbed up and over the next day. It's a cool climb! Quote
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