EV Posted October 11, 2001 Share Posted October 11, 2001 I'm getting ready to buy a pair of aiders. Can anyone give me suggestions between the BDs, Metolius and Misty aiders? Also, do you usually use the three aider method or four? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted October 11, 2001 Share Posted October 11, 2001 use 4, unless you plan superlight style like you are taking them one pitch of aid high up on a 10-pitch route get the onsight karak-ourom aiders. get a kong adjustable fifi. life will be easier. or use the "ropeman fifi" method outlined in climbing mag tech tip last year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt_Anderson Posted October 11, 2001 Share Posted October 11, 2001 Two aiders, unless your climb is consistently overhanging. Extra aiders make you lazy and slow. They get in the way. Bringing the extra aiders encourages you to hang out in the aiders, making your poor belayer endure your lead far longer than he should. matt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted October 11, 2001 Share Posted October 11, 2001 I suggest small aiders unless you are on a longer aid route. I use tied ones for alpine and one pitch deals. If not get the yates ones. They rock! http://www.yatesgear.com/climbing/bigwall/etriers/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt_Anderson Posted October 11, 2001 Share Posted October 11, 2001 Hmmm. . . Dru and I should not aid together . . . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willstrickland Posted October 11, 2001 Share Posted October 11, 2001 Ever try stemming in one aider? Listen to Dru. I'd recommend "ladder" style over "alternating" style aiders, but that's mostly a personal choice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted October 11, 2001 Share Posted October 11, 2001 i agree with will, the karak-ouroms are ladder style. ladder style webbing aiders are way easier to use with plastic boots on, the only time i usually go aiding is when the weather sucks for free climbing anyways... i find it hard enough to top step with 2 aiders on a piece wouldn't want to try it off balance with only one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wallstein Posted October 11, 2001 Share Posted October 11, 2001 Using 4 aiders is slower but more comfortable. I learnt with 4 but once I got comfortable I moved on to a 3 aiders system. My third aider isn't connected to my daisies and only has 2 or 3 steps. I only use the third in akward aid and hard pitches. This method is quicker and less bulky than 4 but still just as comfortable. I also use the Russian aiders made by trango. They totally rock. They are lighter, less bulky, easier to go from free to aid and aid to free. The only problem thay have is on really steap stuff. Other than that problem I think they are superior to the regular get up. Dru is right about the kong adjustable fifi hook. It is the only way to go. I use that thing like a third hand. If you go with the standard method I would recomend the metolius aiders. They have good sub steps and are a little lighter than the bd ones. The metolius also cover the same distance in 4 steps as a 5 step bd aider. This makes you move a little quicker. Don't be scared to try something different like the Trango setup. -Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miker Posted October 11, 2001 Share Posted October 11, 2001 So how does the Kong adjustable fifi work? I have the fifi hook and move it up or down the daisy as needed, what does the kong fifi do different? Miker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted October 11, 2001 Share Posted October 11, 2001 the adjustable fifi is on a piece of cord, you dont put it on the daisy, you put it on the piece and tighten it up as you step up, then slack it a bit and top step. kicks ass on overhangs. no more pumping out to move your hook up one hole on the daisy on an overhang. ive seen euros using a regular cliffhanger as a fifi. hee hee. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willstrickland Posted October 11, 2001 Share Posted October 11, 2001 Re: the adjustable fifi You can get basically the same effect by using "lazy chains" which are adjustable daisies, but they will start to slip after a while and require replacement. The advantage of this is one less piece in the aid-climbing cluster as well as eliminating the the hook (which snags things and requires moving in and out of pieces) altogther. Almost everyone I know who has tried the lazy chain method loves it. The adjustable aiders are another story, not recommended by anoyone I know who's tried them. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted October 11, 2001 Share Posted October 11, 2001 of course when you are at the ledge or belay you can't use all your daisy holes to sort out gear if you only have lazy chains. only 2 holes!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted October 12, 2001 Share Posted October 12, 2001 The new metolious adjustable daisy chains are way better than the old Yates big buckle ones. And they eliminate the need for a fifi hook. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cal_Droke Posted October 12, 2001 Share Posted October 12, 2001 I use 4 BD 6 step aiders. I clip each pair with a keylock biner to a daisy. I also use a Metolius adjustable daisy. I use the adjustable for really steep stuff, or roofs. On my big wall harness there are two fifis, one for resting on the 4th step, the other for top stepping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willstrickland Posted October 12, 2001 Share Posted October 12, 2001 quote: Originally posted by Dru: of course when you are at the ledge or belay you can't use all your daisy holes to sort out gear if you only have lazy chains. only 2 holes!! Good point, but my ledge has daisy loops all the way up two of the pieces of suspension, so not a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
freeclimb9 Posted October 12, 2001 Share Posted October 12, 2001 Two sets of aiders with a four and a five step in each is a great setup, IMO. Â Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BIGONES Posted October 12, 2001 Share Posted October 12, 2001 I prefer one ladder type. You can get them at amazon.com. http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/browse/-/228482/104-9080399-7997531 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hollyclimber Posted October 12, 2001 Share Posted October 12, 2001 Adjustable aiders are good for jugging. If that's all your doing, they are pretty good because they are secure on the foot, comfortable and can be microadjusted exactly right. If you are leading in blocks (and therefore jugging in blocks) they are nice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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