Cal_Droke

I use 4 BD 6 step aiders. I clip each pair with a keylock biner to a daisy. I also use a Metolius adjustable daisy. I use the adjustable for really steep stuff, or roofs. On my big wall harness there are two fifis, one for resting on the 4th step, the other for top stepping.

The Silent Partner is great...if you don't mind the $225 price tag. I have fallen on it a few times aid climbing, and it locked up quickly and safely. I have used it in wet weather (soloed Green Dragon a few weeks ago) and it didn't seem to slip when I took a relatively long fall, even with a wet rope. The Silent Partner doesn't seem that great for free climbing. There is a loop dangling below you, assuming you tie a back up knot, that seems to get caught on stuff as you climb. The best thing a soloist can do is find a "real" partner.

I climbed the Coleman Headwall on Sep.9 with two partners. We started at about three from the parking lot. Traversed to the base of the Roman Nose at approx 8000'. The bottom of the Nose was volcanic rock, don't fall here. We had to negotiate a couple crevasses with some relatively steep, but short, ice climbing to get to the base. There was approx 2000' of moderate ice climbing. We started way left, and ended up wandering back and forth as the route dictated. We simul climbed and usually had 2 ice screws in at any given point.

Last year in september the gully appeared to have no discernable snow, and a lot of loose rock (I was on Backbone.)

I have a couple Motorola Talkabouts. For the most part I have only used them on roadside/short approach routes. They work great...Much better than SHOUTING, paticularly if there are other climbing teams nearby. I got one of mine at Costco for a reasonable price.

How does one spell "Hoo ah"?

I went to Bank's a couple times last week. Devil's PB in good shape, but there was a lot of ice falling on us (therefore the name?) The Emerald was in great shape. A ice chimney of sorts has formed on the left, lots of fun to jam oneself into for a break.