Jens Posted February 2, 2003 Share Posted February 2, 2003 Any thoughts on what rock shoes we all like for different crag areas in the cascades? Many of us carry a "quiver of shoes" For instance the harder friction climbs up the icicle require microedge work where the harder peshastin slabs require ball of the foot pure friction and pebble smearing. Index harder face stuff- don't need any kind of pointed toes but need micro edge power. Some the older blunter sytle spotiva sport shoes were proably the best made for these climbs (tao, kendo). The new trendy curved stuff is worthless for this style? N. Bend- Soft hgih performance shoes Wa pass- Edges of cracks often seem to have make beleive giant "crustals"- and very few micro edges -softer shoes than most granite areas. Slippers work great. Enough pontificating- this weather friggin' blows.. wet rock and no ice- (I hear spring song birds and have mosquitos at my house right now.) and lot of moss growing in my yard and onmy driveway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted February 3, 2003 Share Posted February 3, 2003 5.10 anazazi velcro's for everything...don't leave home w/o them... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted February 3, 2003 Share Posted February 3, 2003 one shoe for everything. i use the 5.10 red slippers. getting 5 different shoes seems redundant and just ridiculous for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted February 3, 2003 Share Posted February 3, 2003 FIVE pairs might be somewhat redundant, etc, but having, say three, pairs of shoes might help. Once you start climbing hard stuff, shoes might make a difference. Then again, I'm talking out of my ass since I'm the guy who used to climb everything in Aces. They died, and Thinkmountain.com hasn't sent me new ones yet. I'd say for the vast majority of climbing, one or two pairs of shoes will cover it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted February 3, 2003 Share Posted February 3, 2003 Mocc's are awesome for a month...I think they climb the best out of the box of any shoe out there...unfortunately they stretch out too much, too quickly and turn into bedroom slippers...so you wind up keeping a fresh pair and a blown pair... The velcro's never stretch too much... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Flash_Amazing Posted February 3, 2003 Share Posted February 3, 2003 Three pairs is dandy. It's nice to have some slippers for bouldering in the gym, warmups, or steep routes. Velcros come in for harder steep routes, most outdoor bouldering, and slabby warmups where you need a bit more edging capability. And then lace-ups for hard routes where you need the pinpoint edging precision and stability of the stiffer shoes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted February 3, 2003 Share Posted February 3, 2003 Mocc's are awesome for a month...I think they climb the best out of the box of any shoe out there...unfortunately they stretch out too much, too quickly and turn into bedroom slippers...so you wind up keeping a fresh pair and a blown pair... The velcro's never stretch too much... On my 5th pair of them. If I had any issue they would have got dumped long ago. A good shoe for any one person takes in many factors. i'm not going to argue your decisions and I dont really see how you can argue mine for that matter. Never had stretching problems. They do wear out quicker than I like but they resole fine and are way cheaper 30$ or more than many other like it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted February 4, 2003 Share Posted February 4, 2003 I have been using Sportiva Mythos for everything for about 3 years now. I have 2 pairs: one stretched out pair for longer days, one tighter pair for 2 pitches or less before they come off. Climb index, climb vantage, climb static/darrington, climb WA Pass, climb N Ridge of Stuart, climb...climb...up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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