edaskren Posted March 22, 2017 Posted March 22, 2017 I need ideas please . . . buddy coming in from NJ this weekend -- he's never been in the Alpine but has lots of ice experience out of NH. We had planned Triple Couloirs back in Sept/Oct when he needed to decide leave time, we did this based on last years great conditions. Now we've been socked with tons of weather, avalanche conditions are dangerous above 6500' and we're desperate. Any thoughts or options for intermediate level mountaineering or accesable skilled alpine rock -- something that won't kill us require us calling for rescue burried under tons of snow? thanks! Quote
Rad Posted March 22, 2017 Posted March 22, 2017 I don't have suggestions, except to say that if you're looking to get into the alpine you should check out the avy forecasts here: https://www.nwac.us/ Quote
edaskren Posted March 22, 2017 Author Posted March 22, 2017 Thanks! yeh, been on that daily for the last couple weeks. Quote
Rad Posted March 22, 2017 Posted March 22, 2017 Mt Erie near Anacortes is often dry and sunny when everything else is wet. There are some moderate multi-pitch routes that are nice, and the views and ambience are incredible if the weather is semi-decent. Quote
edaskren Posted March 22, 2017 Author Posted March 22, 2017 Thanks Rad, good idea - it is beautiful there! Been checking the weather both sides of the range, we may just have to bite this one and head to the East side for rock, live to climb the alpine another day. Quote
genepires Posted March 23, 2017 Posted March 23, 2017 south ridge/face of ingals peak should be climbable, weather permitting. still sporty but doable. would need snowshoes/skiis to get there. maybe a trip up to eldorado east ridge? I think it would be somewhat avi reasonable but would have to be avi permitting also. Quote
JasonG Posted March 23, 2017 Posted March 23, 2017 As you've probably gathered by now, the springs of 2015 and 2016 were about as abnormal as you can get. This year is closer to reality, though a bit wetter than normal. If I ever have friends visit from out of the area for Alpine climbing....last week of July/first week of August. Push it to early July for the volcanoes. Quote
keenwesh Posted March 24, 2017 Posted March 24, 2017 Triple couloirs is good to go. Put a boot pack up it yesterday. There is some windslab on the approach and coming off the back, but I could not get it to propagate. The runnels are super mellow neve. Go check it out. Quote
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