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edaskren

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Everything posted by edaskren

  1. I need ideas please . . . buddy coming in from NJ this weekend -- he's never been in the Alpine but has lots of ice experience out of NH. We had planned Triple Couloirs back in Sept/Oct when he needed to decide leave time, we did this based on last years great conditions. Now we've been socked with tons of weather, avalanche conditions are dangerous above 6500' and we're desperate. Any thoughts or options for intermediate level mountaineering or accesable skilled alpine rock -- something that won't kill us require us calling for rescue burried under tons of snow? thanks!
  2. Anything out there to climb?

    Thanks Rad, good idea - it is beautiful there! Been checking the weather both sides of the range, we may just have to bite this one and head to the East side for rock, live to climb the alpine another day.
  3. Anything out there to climb?

    Thanks! yeh, been on that daily for the last couple weeks.
  4. 2016/17 Ice Conditions

    anyone know anything about Banks Lake area, Devil's Punch Bowl beginners area and if it's in or not? thanks all!
  5. Found this on The Onion -- at first I thought they'd been studying my buddy Paul and me this year in our bush-wacking experiences either getting onto or off of rock. Good laugh: http://www.theonion.com/article/study-finds-getting-smacked-right-in-the-mouth-wit-26837
  6. [TR] Mt Jefferson - Soutwest Ridge 9/11/2015

    Jefferson is a giant scree factory -- that water at 7777 ft was miraculous! Great TR Paul . . . except you forgot to mention the descent method we refined of "screessading." Good times buddy -- another summit to tick!
  7. water on Stuart West Ridge and/or Cascadian...

    was just there this last Thursday 8/13 - got water from the snow patch under the summit on descent -- it was trickling, we made a pool and pumped a few liters.
  8. Looking to get beta and/or conditions on Adams Glacier Mt. Adams -- hoping to go up this week. Thanks for any help you got.
  9. Mt. Adams beta or conditions

    Great TR! Thanks for the encouragement too. Probably could've should've . . . We did Little T instead, summited and had a great time. Thanks for the stoke!
  10. Mt. Adams beta or conditions

    Thanks for the info . . . your comments confirm our other research that it's likely too warm and snow too sparse to head up the Adams Glacier safely and confidently for our skill level -- crevasses, drooping or collapsing bridges and falling ice, rocks and seracs . . . thanks!
  11. An ode to Frenchman Coulee

    My ideas for solution are pretty limited but I'm down with throwing in my time and energy to accomplish something good to preserve the area. I have the pleasure of climbing there occasionally during the week days . . . nobody around. I accidentally stumbled out there on a weekend recently and couldn't believe the crowds -- thought there was a concert I hadn't heard about. Then, when I used the shitter it was a sight to behold -- the thought of that much crap hiding under rocks instead of in the hole . . . shuddering. I'm down for mindful attention to what appears to be a growing problem.
  12. Trip: Kahlotus, Washington - Date: 8/6/2012 Trip Report: TR – Kahlotus Devil’s Canyon If it hadn’t been for beta from Kevin Pogue we might never have found the 1 of 2 pitches just outside of Kahlotus, Washington that he bolted nearly 20 years ago and hasn’t (by his own admission) been back to for about 15 years. My awesome buddy and I got there early, parked along the road and made our way up. The site is approximately 1.5 to 2 miles north of Lower Monumental Dam on the West side of the road – alternately called State Route 263 or Devils Canyon Rd. We parked where the talus field comes right down to the road and climbed strait up the chunky basalt rubble, probably a 20 minute approach taking your time ‘cause one fall is gonna screw you up! At the top we landed on a “rails to trails” area that gave us a great place to dump our gear and set up. The 1 bolted route we found is located straight up from the scree (look for a couple of VW Bus size boulders in the scree as you’re going up). It’s right off the railroad bed and the first bolt is about 12 feet up but pretty accessible if you don’t mind getting dirty – lots of ledge-y, bushy grass to wipe your face through before you get to clip. I think Pogue rated this pitch a 5.9, there’s plenty of challenging moves, a little overhung in a couple spots – pretty fun. We each lead climbed it. We left the top rope up and began running up different routes either side of the bolts. There was a great slope-y, blank area that neither of us could send and we tried to failure – awesome pump action! Careful on these rocks though – on my way up the last time to grab the gear and rappel down I dislodge a piece of basalt about the size of a kitchen trash can. It did some good bouncing before it stopped. Good thing my partner belaying me was smart, back and to the side a ways – he would have been hurt bad. After a couple of beers we explored the rest of the wall. Couldn’t find the additional route that was supposed to be there although we did find the bolted cable that ran us up to the top of the wall through a cut in the basalt. We took rope with us to rappel back down (which required me going back up twice to rethread it through the rusted out, moss covered chains that kept grabbing it when I tried to pull it through at the bottom – ended up rappelling on a single bolt, yikes!) Lots of potential here for further routes to be developed – or maybe just some top ropes placed!? Really dirty overall, watch out for loose rock, doesn’t look like it’s been touched for years. The basalt is small-columnar and looks like it got squished from on top or thrust up into something from underneath.
  13. [TR] Kahlotus, Washington - 8/6/2012

    Hey man - thanks for the extra beta on the other climb we couldn't find. Thought we looked enough but must not have. Will check it out again.
  14. [TR] Kahlotus, Washington - 8/6/2012

    Yeh - on the hunk a chunk I pulled down - when it went I got a shoe full of dirt. I was just glad neither if us got hurt. It'd be a fun project place. Lots of opportunity and really accessible from the road. We don't live too far from it either, had a half day and figured to give it a go.
  15. Trip: Leavenworth, Icicle Canyon - Playground Point Area Date: 7/7/2012 Trip Report: Broke out my new Viktor Kramar's Leavenworth Rock, met my crag buddy at 0430 and we made our way East landing at mile marker 5.+ on Icicle Road just outside of Leavenworth ETA 0630. There are so many climbing options in and around Leavenworth, and this being our first time climbing here we kept our expectations pretty low (needless to say, we'll be back 'cause those low expectations were knocked out of the water!) We checked out some pics and notes online and between that beta and our own awesomeness we made it to our first belay. Trying to keep it simple, wanting an easy warm-up and done walking -- we decided to make the route up to Romper Room a 3 pitch event. Between Baby's behind, Baby steps and Baby's Bottom it was like we'd never left the kids at home! Easy stuff. Hit the next pitch and Kramar didn't lie about Hopscotch being 5- . . . it was (but still held my attention as I was getting used to the granite.) The beta in Leavenworth Rock was good and the drawings a great help, we found the top of Playground and were glad we'd gotten there when we did 'cause others were already starting to make noise around us. Now, I'm a lot newer to climbing than my partner, so I will readily admit that Romper Room, rated at 5.8+, really was 5.8+! It nearly kicked my ass. Not sure what it is, maybe my first time at Leavenworth or on this type of granite . . . Strangely I made it cool and easy over what we think was the crux, then like an idiot I started choking on a part that my buddy ascended like a pro! Dick! We hit Father's Day and did some mixed sport and trad, then with it getting hot and a little busy, we had a couple beers and aimed for a little more shade. After hitting 6 or 7 pitches, 3 beers each (dang it was getting hot) and a snack on the Playground, we reversed trail and headed over to Central Park for some top-roping and asskicking on a 5.10 SOB! Dang, it was a great finish to a great day. There were a couple of dynamic moves we had to make -- really stretching us. The challenge of our thorough punking-out on the 1/4"-crimpy-fingers wall was compounded by the fact that the sun had supercharged the rock to uberheiss and we both swear to God it not only stole the pads from our fingers but gave us a couple of blisters as punishment for our indecisiveness when we should have kept pushing up instead of hang on. That damn wall pissed us both off so bad we managed to send with only a couple falls, scraped shins and a much reduced vocabulary -- mostly in the form of 4 letter words. We stumbled back down the hill, loving rock more than ever, hit the car, stopped at Leavenworth Mountain Sports where I got a sweet deal on my first Alien Cam from Matthew (thanks Matthew!). As a great finish to our day my buddy bought the brauts and I the beer -- we drank too much and had to wait it off to drive home. I think I could get used to this!
  16. Thanks, yeh, I know . . . the problem is our own. You see we've been in the habit of not recording our climbing trips . . . . .'cause then we'd have to be responsible adults that hold down regular jobs, ergo -- no pictures. However, since I've now outed myself, will work on pics for the next time. Good suggestion. thanks!
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