Torment-Forbidden in Winter

[Nicka]

Hi All,

 

I'm trying to figure out if anyone has ever done the Torment-Forbidden Traverse in winter. Have you ever heard of someone trying? I'm sure some reticent hardman has done it, but I can't find any info. The biggest challenge would appear to be the approach, given winter road closures.

 

Any info would be appreciated!

Nick

[Dre]

Maybe get one of these puppies ?

sorry no help here, just wish i had a snow bike.

 

[dave schultz]

I think the approach would be the easiest.

 

Getting up Torment would be tough and shitty with it covered in snow.

 

The traverse could be shitty and totally corniced over, making it pretty unsafe.

 

WR of Forbidden could be really awesome, moderately steep, very blocky awesome alpine terrain. (or could be basically covered in snow and terrible, probably somewhere in between).

 

The prospect of bailing after getting onto the north side is tough to swallow in the summer. Might be suicidal in the winter without skis. Would you carry skis across the traverse? This is probably the biggest problem with the entire goal.

 

Mid- to late-December might be your best chance of a "winter" ascent, before the volumes of snow have had a chance to accumulate.

 

I still think the approach would be the easiest. If you think it would be the toughest, you might actually die on the route.

[Nicka]

Thanks for the info, Dave. I didn't mean to sound dismissive of the climbing itself in the original post. Could a snow machine legally be used on the approach, at least along the road? Any idea what mile marker the road is closed to, roughly?

 

And have you ever hear of somebody getting it done, or trying?

 

Thanks again.

[DPS]

Hi,

 

I have been an enthusiastic winter climber in the Cascade River valley since 2000. I do not believe the TFT has been done in winter, and I have thought about it quite a bit. I agree with Dave, the approach would be the easy part and the key would be do it early season, like in December, right after the solstice, and hope for a low snow pack. Also, bring a chain saw, come along, a shovel, a few bags of sand, chains, and a 4WD vehicle. Often trees fall and block the road and need to be removed to drive up to the trailhead, which would likely be gaited at the Elodrado Creek TH, mile 20. Yes, you can certainly use a snow machine on the road, certainly not on the approach. If there is too much snow on the road to drive to the TH, likely the TFT will be heavily corniced.

[DPS]

Would you carry skis across the traverse? This is probably the biggest problem with the entire goal.

I thought a couple of guys (Ryan Laurie?) did do the TFT with skis on their backs, but I could be wrong about that. Small, plastic snow shoes would be the trick.

 

[Bronco]

Here you go Dan: http://billygoattech.com

 

Look forward to the TR!

[DPS]

Here you go Dan: http://billygoattech.com

 

Look forward to the TR!

I look forward to being able to climb again, anything really.

 

Funny, I think a lot about products for climbing and had something like these in my mind. A plastic type snow shoe that uses a crampon's attachment system. Nice to see I have good ideas. No follow through, but good ideas.

[OlympicMtnBoy]

I think Grivel made a similar product several years ago, a snowshoe that integrated with one of their crampons. Looked sweet and more refined than above but only meshed their crampons. I don't think it sold well, the real hardcore people ski the ice. Hehehe.

[DPS]

Grivel had a plastic snow shoe that used a heel lever crampon style attachment system, but I don't recall it integrated with a crampon, I don't think you could wear both at the same time.

[Bronco]

I look forward to being able to climb again, anything really.

 

Let me know if you need a slow partner.

[DPS]

TFT end of December?

[Bronco]

How about skiing around Snow Lake?

 

I'm wondering what Colin thinks about the TFT in winter. Seems like he'd have the scoop on why the FWA remains unclaimed.

[DPS]

I attempted to ski around Snow Lakes in winter, but avalanche conditions were too high. We should get Juan in on this action.

 

I honestly don't think TFT in winter would be that hard, assuming one had the right conditions. I don't think it would be any harder than the big rock routes done in winter in the Stuart Range.

[Pete_H]

Probably not a very enjoyable or aesthetic "climb" in which objective danger would far outweigh the quality of it. For the area, the west arete on Eldo in winter seems like a better objective but I think it has been done by Kit Lewis maybe?

Edited November 23, 2016 by Pete_H

[DPS]

For the area, the west arete on Eldo in winter seems like a better objective but I think it has been done by Kit Lewis maybe?

Kit and Steve Risse I think.

[Pete_H]

 

Pictures from Summit post but I've seen it in similar condition in person, all rimed up, and it looked pretty cool.

[DPS]

That couloir dead center would be pretty cool too, in the right (iced/mixed) conditions. I wonder if that has been climbed? NE Couloir is to the climber's left, around the buttress out of view I think.