scott

index monday tues or weds??

pm me if you want to climbing at lower town monday

anyone want to do davis holland/ lovin arms next week (tues, weds, thu, fri), pm me.

i just did it last weekend. in good shape. a little icy at top 200 feet of steep part-- which is easy 45 degrees broken in steps. some might want 4 screws. takes screws better than pickets.

can anyone give me a good gear list for green dragon?

anyone?

anyone up for climbing upper town early thurs. i have to be back by 5pm so we'd have to start somewhat early. i have done this route several times so i just need a competent second.

i've had an andinista for a few years. it has held up well, but i am reluctant to take it cragging all the time b/c it is light. the top lid does flop around a little, but i take it off for actual climbing and leave it at camp. the foam pad is quality. the shoulder staps slip a little, but not enough to be a big deal. overall, i like it alot, but if you are looking for a pack to also use cragging, i'd get something a little tougher.

anyone want to go do both outer space and orbit this sat? or do becky leen at washington pass?

nope, but i hear the headwall is coming into good shape...

anyone want to climb the coleman headwall sometime between the 8th and 12th of june (next week)?

top

the ice cliff itself, i guess you will pass on the left. it was a wi 2+ traverse when we did it. a couple of screws come in handy.

no it wasn't technical. it was just a constant 45 degrees or so with no breaks for about 90 minutes. i was concerned about being exposed to falling stuff, but nothing came down. it was no problem, just demanded some attention. if it was icy it would be trickier.

i did this route a few years ago. we approached via the stuart lake trail, but went left (east) off the trail well before the lake and crossed several boulder fields, popped out near the sherpa glacier. it is great climbing, the descent down the sherpa demanded some attention, an hour or two of unroped downclimbing. still the quickest way down and out. if you get good beta on the approach and know about the snow conditions on the approach, i would go for a day car to car. if not, bivy in the morain near the route and next to the north ridge. one of the most visually interesting places to be, a pretty wild looking area up there.

oh, you mean the nudie photo. sadly, no. but i keep looking for her out in the back country. so far, no dice.

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on june 14th, i will be finished with two years of hell in graduate school. i will be climbing sat, sun, mon from june 15th until september. mostly interested in routes 5.9 to 5.11, grade v and vi, in the cascades, bugs, and in bc. send me a pm if you are interested in climbing.

you really don't need a tool at all. you might want to take one bd hook -- for one move on the third pitch where there is a carved out pin hole. when you pull the rope at the descent gully, it stands a good chance of getting wrapped around the dead tree that is sticking out-- happened to me twice. water, food, rainjacket, headlamp.

its toast, discard it. for top roping too.

if you have some offsets, the second aid pitch is no real problem. the third pitch has manky fixed gear, but you can just move off them quickly, then to a good cam crack. i thought the rotten block was fine, but the belay above the rotton block is three button bolts. there is a shallow thin crack above the rotton block that stays in the corner and goes up over a three foot roof. a slab move or two below and at this roof, i thought this was the crux. this will certainly be the crux if you don't use long runners on this pitch, since it moves back out of the corner after the little roof and there can be major rope drag problems, and some slighly flaring cam placements (but easy climbing). then you have a nice ledge for the last technical pitch. this route is really fun and is easy in a day, especially if you fix the first two.

they make me fart like nothing else. just something to keep in mind.

Ok, I can call, but I am looking for average years -- is there ice by october 15th through - november 1? it looks like not, average temps don't drop below 30 until mid november.

anyone know if there is ice in valdez as early as the last two weeks in october? anywhere else in alaska this early? thanks.

This post is just what i needed today. In places where you don't have to bring a shit tube, I carry a paper supermarket sack with handles. The handles are key-- keeps your hands out of the way while you let it rip. Thank you all for this post.