Kyle_Flick

Trip: Alpine Lakes - Bears Breast & Summit Chief -enchainment attempt Date: 8/15/2011 Trip Report: Four of us headed from Salmon La Sac 15 miles to Lake Ivanhoe and Dutch Miller Gap on Sunday August 14 with a forecast of 60% chance of rain that never materialized. We entertained high hopes of a week's worth peak bagging via a north to south enchainment to include Bears Breast, Summit Chief, Overcoat and Chimney Rock. The reality of the terrain served up a healthy dose of humble pie. On day two, three of us climbed over 2000' of supposed 3rd class (reality: loose 4th and low 5th class scrambling) to the summit block of Bears Breast. Here we clustered the route finding and turned back 200' from the summit. We did eventually locate the route, but it looked runout and sketchy for pro. Purportedly it only goes at 5.6, but if the scrambling below was any indication (it barely warranted a footnote in Beckey's guide), we were a tad unnerved. We spent several hours downclimbing and did two raps before we could relax and do some sight seeing. We took a side trip and visited some beautiful tarns that we spotted from high on the route. The area around Lake Ivanhoe is very steep walled and cliffy; so we were fortunate to locate a cairned gully to Dutch Miller Gap and catch the trail back to camp at the lake. The next day (day 3) we broke camp, and hiked cross country from below the outlet of the lake. With the aid of vegetable belays we attained the crest of the ridge that wound to the south. Climbing up the ridge allowed us to drop off at about 5300' to the basin east of Summit Chief. We traversed south below the summits of Summit Chief and ultimately set up camp at 6000', about 1000' below the main peak. We had deluded ourselves that the next day (day 4) we could cross a ridge above us, run over to Overcoat Peak,return and knock off Summit Chief and back to our high camp--all in an easy day. But we should have known better. From the vantage of Tank Lakes to the west, where we had camped a couple years before, and a cursory view of the topo map, all would have revealed that at the ridge that we crossed at 7000' we would encounter an unsavory 900' chasm to the 6120+' pass below. In fact a whole hanging valley that dropped off to the east put the kabash on any plans of an enchainment. We set our sights on salvaging the trip by trying at least to summit one peak before pulling the plug and heading home. But even that was proving difficult. After several false starts and as a last ditch effort, we located the route on the west side of the upper most ridge (vs. Beckey's description of the north side) and reached the top of Summit Chief. We were beginning to think we were going to denounce our trip--"The Cirque of the Lowlying Unclimbables". Sorry no pix to supplement this TR as my climbing buddies had the cameras and haven't sent me any of their photos yet. Gear Notes: Rope, small rack, crampons, ice ax Approach Notes: From Bears Breast, one gets a good view of the proper ridge to climb to traverse into the basin above Summit Chief Lake. Descent from Summit Chief Lake to the Pacific Crest Trail is straightforward. If you want to take a "shortcut" to Pete Lake, head north on the PCT and drop off the steep forested slope to Escondido Lake. Catch the trail from the outlet to Pete Lake.

Last week we were up on Bears Breast and later Summit Chief and encountered the same thing as you did--numerous low flying jets swinging around the local peaks, e.g., flying between Chimney Rock and Lemah as well as Daniel and Hinman. It seemed the maneauvers were to practice flying below the radar.

Nice work guys and good info. The only correction, as keeper of accuracy in geography, is that you didn't climb Jaberwocky Tower which is low and to the north of Aasgard Pass (you pass by it enroute to Colchuck Balanced Rock). Acid Baby is located much higher, as you described, toward Aasgard Pass--above Spineless Prow and below Aasgard Sentinel, for what it's worth.

Trip: Mt. Rainier - Tahoma Glacier and Success Cleaver Date: 7/24/2011 Trip Report: Headed up the Puyallup Cleaver the weekend of July 15-17, but turned back when predicted weather actually blew in the evening of the 16th at high camp at 9800'. Returned the following weekend and made it up the Sickle variation of the Tahoma Glacier before a disorienting lenticular hit us with high winds and whiteout as we summited at 10:00 am on July 24th. After two hours of shenanigans locating the proper descent, we came down the DC route. For whatever reason (obsessive behavior, perhaps?), I and the friends from the first attempt returned to the westside of the mountain for a go up the Success Cleaver this past weekend (7/29-31). We made it within two hundred feet of the high camp at 10,700' before AMS and severe leg cramps struck the stronger member of our team. It was fortunate that we retreated to the lower bivy sites at 8300' that evening because the next morning dawned clear and blue but for a huge lenticular had formed on the upper 4000' of the mountain. Incidently, on the descent from the upper part of the Success Cleaver we came across a Stubai short ice ax and two pickets on some steep snow and hoped no one was injured in the process of dropping their gear. It looked like a recent event since the equipment was in good shape with no rust. Gear Notes: Light rope, pickets (used primarily to belay crevasse crossing on descent) and a second tool was handy on the Sickle variation, but not required. Approach Notes: Westside Road to South Puyallup trail to St. Andrews Park and up the Puyallup Cleaver. While straightforward, you are starting at a low elevation of 2800', and it's quite a distance from the mountain. Shorter but similar is the approach to Success Cleaver via the Tahoma Creek trail to the Wonderlund and Indian Henry Hunting Ground. All snow above 5000' for both routes. Enjoy not seeing the mass of humanity that you do on the DC route. In fact, we didn't see anyone climbing the described routes the last two weekends.

Nice running into you guys on the route. Great day to be in the mountains.

Congrats Dan, Pete and Eric! Is this a first ski descent of Ptarmigan Ridge?

I just got back from the North Face route and found that even in the warmish conditions today (morning drizzle, 41 degrees, mushy snow) that it's relatively free of rockfall due to the excellent rock quality on the margins of the face. I agree with you: It's a fun route that feels more remote and varied than the North Buttress Couloir.

How did you access the lower north face?

Since the Icicle Road is closed to motorized traffic after 8 mile campground, you're relegated to mountain biking 5 miles to the Stuart Lake TH. That's been a bit of an impediment to the amount of traffic that usually gets up there this time of year.

Good of you to show her the ropes to enjoy rock climbing. Glad you two got out together before she passed on.

I took snowshoes and thought they helped. Although slower, they were great for traction on the icy trail and softened the descent.

Treekwi, Starting from Snow Creek parking lot no longer is necessary because the Icicle Road is plowed to Bridge Creek campground. That sheds several miles off the slog.

Hey, I'm impressed with Veronika's lead regardless of the rope snafu. That's a hard lead. I know I would have whimped out and hiked to the anchor on top and TRed it.

Looks like the rockfall was huge and changed the original route. Since I'm all for old vs. bold, my vote is to add bolts to better protect the climbers which doesn't necessarily change the character of the climb as a hardman route.

Trip: Alpine Lakes - Nada Falls Date: 11/28/2010 Trip Report: Conor, Gyselinck and I had an enjoyable day on Nada Falls. The trail in is still in good shape; the boulder field to the base of the falls is a bit of work, but the ice pitches are all in. Craig did a nice job leading the 1st pitch which is sustained WI3. Conor cruised the short steep step of the second pitch, and I got to finish the climb on an easy couple of steps to the top of the falls. Two double rope raps and we were down to our packs. Gear Notes: Ice screws. Approach Notes: Don't need snowshoes yet. Nearly 6 miles to the base of the falls. Plan on approximately 5 hours on the approach.

Sad news indeed! Joe and his wonderful wife, Michelle, were frequent and cheerful customers at my wife's bakery in Leavenworth. He will be missed. Condolences to his wife and family.

It's open. Chris, what did you climb?

Trip: Mount Stuart--Sherpa Peak - NW Buttress--West Ridge (Not in a Day) Date: 9/3/2010 Trip Report: Favorable forecast and scarcity of climbing buds, I find myself climbing solo, Fri. the day before Labor Day weekend when the forecast won't be so good. Other than an irritating bee sting near the trailhead at 5:00 am (what are they doing up so early?), the approach goes smoothly enough past Stuart Lake to the gully that delivers you directly to the base of the Buttress. Snow hadn't melted off the northside ledges from the prior week's cold weather, but I didn't need to break out the ice ax or crampons. The exit move off the NW Buttress onto the upper west ridge was slippery, but overall I only encountered 3rd and 4th class scrambling with a couple of 5th class moves tossed in. The upper west ridge was mostly dry except where the route briefly crosses onto the north flank. The day's climbing seemed to divide into intervals of two: NW Buttress--2 hours, Upper West Ridge--2 hours, summit at 2:00 pm, 2 hours to the base of the West Ridge of Sherpa. Half an hour and you're at the top of Sherpa. The descent off Sherpa to the east and down to Sherpa Pass/Sherpa-Argonaut Col was slow, but there was more than adequate daylight to make it to the pass and avoid a dry bivy by dropping north to the basin below and the headwater of the south fork of Mountaineer Creek. To save weight I brought only a bivy sack, down vest for the upper body and garbage sack for the legs. I broke out the rope for the first time to use it as ground insulation. At 2:00 am I awoke shivering because my legs and feet were damp. Apparently even your legs and feet give out heat which converts to sweat inside a nonbreathable garment. Lesson: Don't use a garbage sack if you want to sleep dry. The next morning's hike consisted of boulder hopping, minor brush beating before locating the relatively well defined path at the confluence of the north and south forks of mountaineer creek and out to the Stuart Lake trail. It still took me 5 hours from camp to car. While it would be brutal, a strong party could make the various climbs on the northside of Stuart and still traverse to the east to Sherpa Pass and return to the car at the Stuart Lake trailhead in a day. All I can say to that is...Ugh. Gear Notes: Ice ax and crampons might be needed shortly if it snows some more. Approach Notes: Northside approach is still dry. Descent from Sherpa Pass--snow remnant at the top is easily bypassed.

If I'm following your inquiry correctly, you're referring to the "dogturdite" ridge right before high camp? Both times I've been up there, we've sucked it up and descended down the gully to the west onto the N. Mowich near the beginning of the ridge. It's loose and unsavory, but it's not long.

...tough crowd. My friend posted a slug of great pics of the route and descent on facebook. Does that help? I'll try and hyperlink them...or not...and just keep it mysterious.

That pic of the beginning of Razorback sure looks steep. We did it years ago, and I don't remember anything that steep. We hiked up to Cannon Mt. on Sat. and fled the summit seeing all the weather coming in from the west. We spotted folks on Prusik and a couple who had rapped off of Backbone on D-T. Glad everyone is okay.

Yes Kurt, one of the folks in our party did take great photos of this beautiful peak and posted one on Facebook. Since I'm a Luddite when it comes to posting photos, I may not be able to post any on this forum. Trust you had a good time in the Bugs. Steve, we simul-climbed the entire route. We took the newer descent route that avoids the upper summit pyramid raps. August should be fine to do that descent route. Once back on the NW Ridge, the rap stations are in excellent shape thanks to the folks that put in the bolt anchors.

Trip: NW Ridge of Mt. Sir Donald Date: 7/24/2010 Trip Report: One of the most aesthetic lines on the planet. It belongs in the "50 Classics". The clean and exposed ridge is not hard to climb and allows for swift movement up the soaring 2400'. The descent for us felt a bit sketchy with snow and ice bits on the summit bypass. But once that melts off it should be fine. It nearly took us twice as long to descend than climb. Gear Notes: Ice ax, small rack. Approach Notes: If you get up early enough you can climb Uto on the same day as you approach.

With several parties earlier risers than Craig Gyselinck and I, we were the last ones on the route in the early morning hours of 7/18. A couple observations about the conditions we found: 1. Good sandy bivy spots before the final crappy ridge to the normal Ptarmigan Ridge high camp. This allowed us to drop down a gully near the beginning of the ridge onto the North Mowich and make a direct line to the schrund to begin the route without spending any time in the hazard zone. 2. More ice is showing higher up which justifies carrying the weight of 3 screws. 3. Doug's rating of the mixed nature of the rock band in the exit gully is spot on. It felt burly. Craig led the pitch leashless and found a good hook placement to trust and yard up on. Setting an anchor above the rock band takes a little imagination. 4. The slog up the Liberty Cap Glacier is longer than I expected. From Liberty Ridge, for example, it's quick work to the summit of Liberty Cap which is not the case for Ptarmigan. 5. Other than guide books, no one seems to post pix of the climb while enroute. So even though we had a camera, we honored the tradition and took no pix as we climbed. It's a good climb to do in the dark.... 6. The glaciers crossed via the White River approach are still in good condition. For us that approach took 10 hours to high camp.

Very funny, entertaining TR. Thanks John. Way to nearly kill it Scott. Save some of that smoked salmon....