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Everything posted by bcollins

  1. Chair peak approach

    This is why people die from avalanches........"check the conditions before you go". That just doesn't work in our climate. Snow stability must be assessed on site, just logging on to Northwest Weather and Avalanche Center and then figuring your safe to travel through the Source Lake basin is asking for trouble.
  2. Alpental ice???

    Anybody been up in the Source Lake area within the last couple days?? Anything at all worth pullin the tools out for? Come on, I'm desperate and will thrash on anything!!
  3. Alpental ice???

    As expected nothing you could sink a tool into........... Sunday was about 30 degrees, couple feet of freshies.
  4. Alpental ice???

    Will do, taking my 15 yr. old daughter and if we get up there, I'll take a look. Let you know what we find.........woo hoo I'm so excited.
  5. Death on Outer Space????

    Heard about an accident but can't find anything about it?? Something about someone's rap anchor pulling from the tower/horn?? Fact or fiction?
  6. XCountry from Source Lake to Melakwa Pass Question

    Ahhh yes........remember the day Mt. St. Helens blew, my GF and I hiked across Snow Lake, up and over Melakwa Pass and out to Denny Creek. Then I hiked up and got the car at Alpental. I heard the mt. blow and thought it was a snowslide somewhere. They were closing the pass cuz of the ash which we thought was smoke...........
  7. Del Campo beta

    Ah yes Del Campo................ Memories of my brother being air-vac'd out by a Chinook, the rotors ripping huge chunks of ice from the lake surface. We were in our mid-teens, didn't know how to use an ice-axe, let alone hold on to it in a fall. He sustained a deep gash to his left thigh (to the bone). The boys from Whidbey Island winched him and my dog out, then made me hike out with the SAR crews!!! Haven't been back since.................
  8. The Tooth is turning into a sport route

    You're on! Ingall's in mid-sept. on a warm day. Can't wait.
  9. Stuart N. Ridge question

    Hey Weas! Was that you in your biv-sac snuggled in below the East summit? I remember saying something about you not sleeping as I literally stepped over your feet, it was rather windy. We got just below the snowfield before it was lights out. I thought our time was rather slow, we spent maybe 2-3 hrs on the Gendarme. We needed more gear and ended up aiding most of it. Up until then we simu-climbed most of the ridge. Aug. 9th was the best day of climbing I've had in 15 yrs of climbing in the NW. Next yr I plan on solo'ing most of it with one other partner, goal 18 hrs.
  10. The Tooth is turning into a sport route

    After having climbed the Tooth maybe 10 x's in all conditions, a buddy and I solo'd it a couple of weeks ago. (first solo) It was one of the funnest times I've had in the mtn's in a long while. We took a double 9/16 sling for a harness, a 37 m. ice floss and a locking biner each for the rap's. Running up/down the trail, doing the whole route in about 15 min., back to the car in 4 hrs. Wouldn't want to make a habit of soloing but I can see why people would. Ingall's next?
  11. Stuart N. Ridge question

    Hey GW, Did NR Aug. 9th. If you're well hydrated prior to the climb, and guzzle a full liter at Ingall's Lake, our party of 3 each made it with a 70 oz bladder no problem. Car-car 23 hrs via Gendarme.
  12. Stuart Traverse

    Hey Jarred was that you we met taking off from the Ingall's trailhead Sat. the 9th? Just wondering.
  13. Stuart, West Ridge beta

    Descended CC yesterday. No axe needed. Hey got a question for the Cascadian Coulior regulars........ About a third of the way down the coulior, just as the trail begins to hit the scrubby trees, it sorta cliffs out. I've been dogging left and dropping down into a loose, short narrow gully which dumps out low and puts you right onto a trail (obscure, overgrown) which takes you to the Ingall's creek trail. Is this the best way down? BTW, how many of you have gotten spanked on the Gendarme?
  14. N. Ridge of Mt. Stuart ?

    I'd say it's............hell.........30 degrees at the bivi site.
  15. N. Ridge of Mt. Stuart ?

    Good points Chuck. We're comfortable simuling fast with the party of 3 we have. I think we'll just have to make the 50 meter half rope work on the 2nd pitch. Damn this route is always full of compromises.........
  16. Kautz

    About 8-9 hrs Paradise to Hazard. Can also climb to just below the Turtle. There's semi-dependable water there. Then you can summit from here without hauling overnight gear up the Turtle. Or do it in 2 1/2 days with a night lower on the Wapoweti, then to Hazard.........makes for a much more enjoyable trip.
  17. N. Ridge of Mt. Stuart ?

    Not sure either but it sounds like it'll work. Apparently have to pitch the rope down for the 3rd. Thanks, Barry
  18. N. Ridge of Mt. Stuart ?

    Hey Fleb, 3 of us going up next weekend. When you mentioned taking a single 30 m. half-rope, we're you thinking of going super-short on the Gendarme pitches with the rope doubled, or climbing it on the single 8-9 mil., thinking that the directness of the pitches would minimalize the chance of edging the rope in a fall. I guess my question is............ Would you take a 50 meter 9 mil. up the Gendarme with a party of 3? Can you make it happen? What's everybody else think?
  19. Toof Hiaku

    4 hrs car to car, 2 men solo the Tooth in sun. Where was ev'body else?
  20. Rainier Climbing Permits

    Ya, me too. I'm so happy to pay for services and improvements that thousands of others use but do not have to pay added fees for other than the park entrance fee. So ti cost $30 bucks to use the solar shitter once, and the shelter was built and payed for early the last century. As for Adams, do like me and many others, climb and don't pay the fee and quit whining. Sorry to vent on you, climbers get singled out and I'm tired of it.
  21. Feathered Friends -15 bag

    Here's the toasty winter bag you've always wanted. 800 fill, -15 degree Widgeon series bag. This bag is red, probably long, (I'm 6'0, fit's me great) with a Dryloft shell. I've used it on winter Rainier trips, (no bivy sack needed), it'll bead off H2O like nothing you've seen. Highly compressable, and bomber construction and detail like FF always delivers. There's a 1- 1/2" x 2" patch (professionally done) that's hard to spot unless you know where it's at. Otherwise many years of use left in this bag. Retails new $500.00, selling it for $250.00. See it at Backpacker's Supply, 5206 So. Tacoma Way, Tacoma. Or pm me of course. Barry
  22. Baker C/D car-to-car TR Haiku

    Even though quite warm, Snow, ice conditions are sweet. Go, go now my friend.
  23. Baker C/D car-to-car TR Haiku

    Goin up North Ridge Sat. Looking for recent beta. How's the ice up high?
  24. No. Ridge Baker Beta

    Any recent info would be appreciated. How's the ice at the crux? Thanks, Barry
  25. Kautz Glacier Conditions

    Hey whoaaa, back the truck up!!! Can we get alittle more clarification on the "exit crack"? I believe that turning the corner and running up that bowling alley back up to Hazard is the worst part of that route, especially on a warm day. How long is it? Thanks Ned.