erik

quote: Originally posted by W: You got me there. money talks i guess. but young, poor, college intern hotties seem to think 12 bucks an hour is pretty decadent, and sexy. up until i crusie up in 01 carrea 4 asking if she would like to drive!!!! then maybe head to hawaii for the eveinng.... granted ladies i am still waiting for the 1st big check to clear, so it will have to be my pickup and a trip to the movie house for now and as far the antichrist goes, not interested i have already sold my soul.....

do a search i know this topic has been gone over a few times...... depends on what you are doing though really.....i mean the girth pillars now and rock would definaly needs a different rack then say e wilman spire...... there are always the trade offs, speed vs all the crap you want to bring.....i try to be flexable to what needs and conditions dictate......

quote: Originally posted by W: i got one- who do the chicks dig more, climbing rangers or guides?here's another one to think about-if a tree falls in the forest while a guided team is on the DC, does the guided team make a sound? [ 03-11-2002: Message edited by: W ] thats not hard 'w', chicks dig the unhindered free alpinist...we have more time to woo them and do not carry loads of regualtions or newbies behind us....we are allowed to express out opinions at any time regardless anti govt or company!!!! and we make a lot more money!!!!!

rod, not bitch session or spray fest intended.... elitest- most of the guides i have ever met in the b/c tend to think that they are generally right or have the right of way...maybe i am off base in thinking so, but i am going off of what i know....this is how then tend their herd....impressing newbies....granted many amga or uiamga guides are excellent climbers, but it is not their job to force that on any one else....cause i suck and i have little interest in how good anyone climbs unless they are my partner, ya know.... granted beefcider is a beginner but he is/and should be able to have an opinion on what he goes through......granted there is and should be common mtneering sense displayed by the guide....that is why i made a safety statement..... i would think that all clients should have atleast some rudimentary abilites before joining up on a climb....if not then it should be the complanies job to intrusct that before getting into the field(just an opinion)...that way most important issues, wether it be glacier travling, crevasse work, anchors....etc.....can be addressed instead of wastng time on knot tying and belay skilzz. that way a client can focus on skills that need a specific enviroment to learn in.....and obviously the guide oversees it all..... rod as usual we both agree with each other, but have different styles and different ways to express what we know and believe and that is one great thing about climbing, it gives us that ability...... have fun and be safe....

quote: Originally posted by Rodchester: You really have to differentiate between a "summit" trip and a course/school. Most guide services offer a summit climb where the focus is on taking the Walter Mitty types to the top of something. The idea is to only teach Walter just enough to not get him or others killed. Basicaly, if you fall self arrest and stay there until your guide says different. On the other hand the actual courses or schools tend to focus on learning the skills required to climb the peak your self. The 5/6 days courses generally focus on glacier travel and basic mountaineering. If you want to go the next step I know that Mountain Madness (yes I have a connection with them) and AAI each offer very good 13 day course that focus on most all aspects of glacier travel and alpine rock too. These are much more comprehensive courses than the 5/6 day courses offered by RMI. I would look closely at the cost difference. If RMI tells you that their course is more expensive because it also involves a summit attempt, I would look elsewhere. It may be that MMI and AAI 13 day courses are just a little bit more expensive but you get so much more instruction. Then again maybe not. Price them out. RMI does hire competant guides that are good instructors. There are a lot of posters here that think they know all about guiding and could do it better. They can't, that is why they're posting here. There are a lot of posters that just bitch about guiding in general. Ignore them, everyone else does. Whatever course you take post a review on it after you take it. Good luck. http://www.alpineascents.com/cascades-13day.asp http://www.mountainmadness.com/alpine/alpine.htm See how these 13 day schools compare to RMI's 6 day. Also always look at what comes with it. Do you have to bring your own food? How about gear? Ask all the questions. [ 03-11-2002: Message edited by: Rodchester ] RODCHESTER IS WRONG.....guiding is a business, the point of a business is to make money...no matter what they tell you or you read their bottom line comes first....... now to get a good experience is comes down to you....it is what you make of it.... i once was interested in guiding myself, and investigated the only correct and real options for becoming a guide (uiamga and the amga) but after some thought considered selling my passion for a little money was not worth it. also rmi, aai mmi or any of the other big mtn schools have a herd/cattle tendency.....with young whipper snapppers like myself with glorious guide dreams twinlking in their eye. charging forward towards elitism...these people might be good climbers, but only the seasoned guides should be repspected..as they really know what guiding is all about...it should be humbling job where the clients wishes and safty are considered before anything else...you are paying for a service demand it.....ALWAYS AND I MEAN ALWAYS MAKE SURE YOU HAVE ATLEAST ONE CERTIFIED GUIDE WITHIN YOUR PARTY....IF THERE ARE NONE THEN YOU ARE WASTING YOUR MONEY....DO YOU PAY SOMEONE WHO WANTS TO BE A DENTIST TO WORK ON YOUR TEETH OR DO YOU PAY A DENTIST???? like i said guiding is good in some respects, but the way rodchester makes it out...it should be banned....

i am for the most part against guiding....but not completly......as it does not serve my needs or desires.......but not to say that it is not a valid way to gain some limited exeperince..... the thing about guiding is that most often it is just a reach the summit and come home type of operation...but your six day course sounds not too bad for what you are describing on what you want..... first things to think about in my opinion would be to ask yourself how much thinking do the guides let you do??? do they give you scenarios that allow you to practive learned skills??? especially without their interferance?? are they open to allowing you some type of (albeit limited) opinion on route finding or route choice??? do they allow you to lead in a controlled enviroment?? all these things are extremly important to safe mtn travel....i mean self reliance and a confidence in yourself....they can teach you things, but they can foster theses ideas within your head and possibly allow you to better yourself...thinking for yourself is the most important skill you can have up there.... i think most of us are against guiding as it takes away the self serving attitude that most of us carry......fair enough....as some people are quite capable and love the challege....even from the get go....but others might need the confidence boost or assitance with learning some new skills.... and the last and most important things is to make sure you have fun....if you are not having fun, then whats the point??

the tape idea is a bad one.....it can and will come off with one tight slide through the belay device......then it turns to litter and that sucks even worse...... make it with a sharpie pen....about 1" wide.....i know i have heard that this weakens the rope by a certain percentage on that spot....but i have yet to hear of it actually failing....so i am sure under perfect testing conditions when the marked portion of the rope falls over an edge it probably cuts...... i say mark it with a pen.....as far as the dark rope goes......still mark it with a pen..... i generally have a good feel for the rope and you can tell with good judgement if half is coming up or if you should look for your middle marker.... markers fade and leave no mess and taope falls off and litters....

quote: Originally posted by allison: Ouch. Nice thread drift, guys. Had to skim all of Page 2. I just got a permit in the mail for Aug 8-11. My buddies and I really want to off-trail it into Coney and beyond via the old logging road spur at the Colchuck TH. Assuming that there are not armed guards at the closure, seems like we might be able to park at eightmile TH and walk past the construction in the evening without making any major disruption. I've never been up that road past the eightmile TH, how feasable is it that if these bridges were under construction, that we could walk through? I am a climber, but the guys I'm going with are not, and we will not have any gear with us except maybe I'll bring a pair of slippers and a chalk bag. allison, crossing the icicle creek in aug should not be too bad, there is a mellow crossing at the camp ground...wading thorugh the creek...though i do not think that parking at 8 mile would be a good idea, especially if the rangers are aggro, might give them a new spot to harrass fun doers......probably start your hike later in the evening....after beers at the bar.... crossing 8 mile creek further up ther road about 4 miles(?) is real chill in aug just a little hopping... the hike up the road is boring and easy....nice views of cannon mtn....adds 5 miles(?) one way... matt, remember astrisk pass is at smith and asgard is in the stuart range....oops!! though he is right the bouldering is off the hook, though save the weight and don't bring the chalk bag......

max well we could get into the whole learning disability thing and what not, then maybe take a walk down reefer lane and maybe even check out head injury alley to see why maybe some people operate the way they do....but that would be pointless........... if you would like to audit my bidness work where i do put my effort, feel free too.....and by the way we ae being audited by our largest client this week.....and guess who is perfect!!!!!!!!!

quote: Originally posted by rat: if you want people to ignore poor spelling, then you should not get so upset over people who misspell your name, it's just a bit hypocritical, don't you think? not really you see ratm there is direct relationship between myself and the correct spelling of my name.....where as so many other words in the world are needed to be put together to form a thought......wheras erik is erik......but eric is not erik.....and erik is not eric.... and for the shear fact that i carry namesake along from past generations and plan on doing the same when i am graced with children......so if you do not resepct me then respect my northern european heritage.......and my ancestors... [ 03-08-2002: Message edited by: erik ]

quote: Originally posted by W: "by the way, i know Erik" oops, too late! my lawyers will be in contact.....juan, you there??

just to note nierman, my drive times are almost right on, as have done that drive about 10 times......i think i might have it down..... a little secret....take the french camp rd and head east off of 99 when heading to the valley...you will miss all of menteca... donner from sac is 1-1.5hrslovers is 1 hrcalaveras is a whole bunch of backroads and same wiht consummes...time vary depending on rally car disillusions

i was just saying that it is only what you make of it.... and if oyu want to name drop my name you will have to join the fan club.....

quote: Originally posted by Beck: ...I think that Peter Puget dude's some big dog with the AAC- but can't say who. in that case i do know......grrrrrrr

http://www.nps.gov/legacy/mission.htmlbeck looks like we are both right....though i am sure that it is all open for interpatation..... cause last time i was in the valley all those roads and 1 dollars cans of coke didnt seem to fit with the mission statemetn.... i wish i could have a set of rules that allowed me to do one thing and say another and then reverse that exact actions once i was proven wrong, but without any ramifications...... "to preserve the economy of our consessaionaries, while still providing a view of nature for the little guy".... is what it should say

quote: Originally posted by Biff: Oh, yeah. Tacoma rocks. Strip malls, homeless crack addicts and a crime rate that makes Detroit feel like Bismarck, ND. Have you lived anywhere else, eri©k? Try Olympia, Spokane or, God forbid, Colville; then describe (snicker) Tacoma as heaven on earth. I gotta think that B'ham ought to have a climbing scene-shit the closest rock I have is Fossil, and calling that rock is giving rock a bad name. Kinda like Poison and Ratt did in the eighties, without the hair, and with more stones. At least you're close to Shuksan, Baker and Squamish. i make no apologies for what your uncle did to you, but seriously homeboy i would think that you would be abel to figure out my message.....tacoma might have its downfalls but so fuck it, they may have dead bodies 1 block from my house but fuck it, i can concentrate on what i feel is important.....i look towards my friends and peer group and see good people, fun people, positve poeple.....you can go to hell with all the ohter old english cans tonite................. use your brain

quote: Originally posted by max: At first I thought you were talking about Ted Bundy. I was confused for a bit! thats why you are an idiot!!! (complete thouhgt completed)

i just spoke with MORA about all contracts with the nps and they are available to the public, but only after you request them through the freedom of information act....there is a 2 week delay on getting them to you, so they may edit the content....i have made this request via email.... the lady i spoke to at the park was very nice and full of information.....

i hope that woman burns in hell.......

matt i prefer a goatskin leather glove with the fingers cut off, i size them up one so i can fit a lite poly pro liner undernerath them i havce a pair of ploy pros with and without fingers....this is a cheap setup and that is fairly flexiable..... hope that helps.....

oh i was just laying the foundation for future sprayers.....leave your manners at home....outside of death threats and physical violence everything else ie pretty much fair game....

quote: Originally posted by W: sorry i just had to get my name dropping in for the day... whatca sayin 'w'???

i'll agree with you on that one...the bham scene is weak...... just like every other towin in the world..... then the towns that have all the cool stuff must have something going on??? maybe it is what every individual person makes it...... that is why tacoma is the best city in the state hands down.....cause i make it that way.....i take the best from what i know and go with it....all the other b.s. is just that.... if you think the scene is lame change it...your post is a good start.....but it can't be left at that......

max, if you only knoew half the stuff i dealt with at work you might start to understand that everything is pretty much diet....that goes on around here.... this is my work day escape you know....

so as of late there has been quite a bit of people thinking they are getting one up on one another by making fun of thier spelling or grammer and especially in spray..... come on people spray has no grammatical or spelling rules....it is a free flowing bit of drivel...... i cant remember what else i was going to type though hopefully it will come back to me later....