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chriss

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  1. chriss
    A better reference is a University of Vienna Master Thesis research paper by Walter Siebert from 2016. http://www.siebert.at/lifespan-unlimited/ The paper is in German, but the author inserted some English notes in an effort to summarize. You can, of course, paste to a online translator site for more detail.
  2. chriss
    All those look to be in good condition. Age alone is not a valid reason to stop using them. Everyone should read more about testing of "old" gear.
  3. chriss
    Were these 2 ever recovered?
  4. chriss
    GWI is in great shape. Was there yesterday. Not much snow and a lot of ice.
  5. chriss
    Where is this from? UIAA uses 12kN as the upper allowable limit. I remember something about this number coming from a military parachute study as the lower limit of serious injury/death.
  6. chriss
    Agreed. The only way you'd effectively shorten your rope is if you have it truly jammed in a constriction, and even then it's likely that a bunch of the core can still pull through and stretch over the entire ropelength. Correct my if I'm wrong, but the core is about 80% of the strength of the rope. Modern dynamic ropes are pretty amazing. http://www.beal-planet.com/sport/anglais/facteurdechute.php thearetical versus actual
  7. chriss
    Lucille
  8. chriss

    Grand Teton

    chriss replied to Jedfro's topic in Climber's Board

    I took 4 biners and 3 slings, 2 singles and a double. Partner had a 70 half rope. Doubled it for leads. Also right length for rappel.
  9. chriss
    NEO
  10. chriss
    80 plus probably. Steck as in Steck-Salathe'.
  11. chriss
    From Off Belay 30+ years ago.
  12. chriss
  13. chriss
    Actually BD's 13cm screw has more threads than the 22. So it should hold more. But, every test has shown this to be false. It's all about the quality of the ice.
  14. chriss
    http://www.jjgeng.com/html/body_ice_screw.html A FEA done on both screw and ice. Interesting for those who care for this type of thing.
  15. chriss
    I should have been more descriptive in a post. I was refering to 2 ropes in the top biner, taking the force of the fall. In theory the ropes could be moving in different directions, not just different speeds, in the lower biners. But there is not much of a chance of that but it could happen. I think the unweighted rope will be forced to move by the weighted rope before it damages it.
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