layton

yeah i had to guide that fucker in april! screw that bullshit, i herded em to camp and said avy conditions were bad...waited...and got my measely $150. No way would i get paid that to herd folks up in winter with absolutely no experience. that said, super easy in summer. no problem. do it, thousands of other have!

weed wacker wire works great on camalots cuz they've got bigger holes. melt the knots into blobs with a lighter. they've held up for years and make your cams lighter too!

yeah dude... get some high test fishing line (you just need a bit, so you may be able to steal some from a spool when nobodys watchin' ya at Fred Meyer or Home Depot) cut the old bits of wire off with some snippers. tie a double granny knot and thread the line through, pinch hold the cam lobes together, and somehow tie a knot on the other end nice n' snug against the hole on the other lobe (the crux). Violin! Cam's fixed.

what happened to the 1st guy's legs???? the somehow disappeared or something!!!??

glad i was useful to someone at some point in my life. fun times and nice photos

Listen to the Rat! (but go climbing with him before you do, or else you may find yourself a bit over your head...if he was neil armstrong he would have said "someone's probably been here before" and give it a moderate approach rating and a minor feat for mankind) actually climbing with the RAT gives you a new insight to reading instruction manuals...who's to say the FA's listed were the FA's, and who's to say the grade is what they said it was. All I know is it took us the major portion of the day to climb it and we got served on a number of pitches. I wouldn't hop this if i were just breaking into the grade. CBR felt easier to me by days end in comparison. The only reason i care is b/c i don't really feel like editing the topo, but the topo was hard to figure out after pitch 3 b/c of the foreshortening effect. Go do it! It's only 2 hours from the car damnit. final beta. it's totally obvious after p3...but when you get to what looks like the summit pulpit (not the summit) go straight-up. don't wuss out to the left on ramps or you'll miss the exciting, exposed ridge crest and you'll have to live with your decision the rest of your life and you may hate yourself soooo badly, you might wind up like the RAT, living in your rat hole, and girls will throw rocks at you.

maybe? my reasoning was that they were very long pitches (about 1000' total) and the climb was sustained at 5.10 for almost every pitch....plus with our "8th" bonus pitch.

CLICK HERE FOR TOPO Non B/W foreshortened topo w/o info added so you can see the cracks n' stuff Acid Baby from Asguard Pass. Climb starts on left at toe of buttress, crosses under alcove in middle, and takes exposed ridge cracks to top. Rolf starts up the 1st pitch Rolf finishes up the 1st pitch on the crux of the climb (only 1/2 the dihedral is shown) Dan on pitch 2. Dan got all the easiest pitches Rolf takes the non-retarded way on pitch 3 Dan follows the exposed traverse on pitch 3 Rolf hamming it up on pitch 6 Dan follows the exciting exposed ridge crest of pitch 6 There are many was to peg out the contrive-o-meter near the top. We burried the needle. Dan said if i called this part of the climb he'd put my mouth on the curb and step on the back of my head. Here's Dan on the final pitch...that i like to call "the New Pearly Gates" Pitch #9 looms in the distance! Our shadows on top of enchantment peak Rolf bouldered ever single one of these on the descent. Dan and I had to tear him away from any further 'proj. Wish I had someone to give all these pretty flowers to. please email me with photos (don't type anything though).

Climb: FRA-Acid Baby III+ 5.10 approx 1000' climbing-Dan Cappellini, Rolf Larson, Mike Layton Date of Climb: 7/31/2005 Trip Report: "Now that we've climbed together, I think you're ready to meet Dan," Rolf stated at 6am in Leavenworth. The three of us had a blast doing a fantastic climb up on Asguard Pass across from the NE face of D-tail. All three of us knew of the line, although they tried to get me to do d-tail madness or the boving route instead. i made lies why we needed to do this route. We get to the base. Crap, this is gonna be quick. What looked like a 4-5 pitch climb now looked like 3 pitches max. At least it'll be over quickly...We got back to the car at 10:30pm. I posted a topo (too big for here) in my gallery. I'll add the link on my next post when i put up the photos. Anyway, our climb ACID BABY turned out to be unrelently steep, quality, and a clean line. I pegged out the contrive-o-meter when my pitch came up by trying to go directly up the roof in the center of the face. After an hour-long battle with gear and fear I backed off. I had a 1/2way in nut, a grey tcu that kept pulling out when i moved, an RP between two removeable stones, and a belayer-slayer i was standing on trying to make the impossibe (for me) reach up over and aroudn the roof. I fell and nearly shat myself in the process. The nut pulled, but came to a stop when the remain metal that was touching the rock somehow held. My RP and TCU blew out. I got real bloody! After a lot of "gosh mike, you're retarded" Rolf slung his balls over his shoulder and gave the roof a go. Much swearing and "careful" grumbling later, Rolf downclimbed my horror show, not as excited to be lowered off my nut as I was. "Well if Rolf couldn't do it," I though.... Anyway, I got the seat of SHAME while Rolf took the obvious and way better way to go up super exposed cracks, ridges, and traversing. Dan and I got stellar pitches, and more stellar pitches led to the top. Turned out to be about 1,000' of climbing all pitches very physical and almost every pitch in the 5.10 range, two being very sustained 5.10. Maybe my photos will do it more justice then my not so good TR (i'm tired and don't have time to post this later). We topped out on top of Enchantment peak after fully burying the CONTRIVE-O-METER on top by doing a sweet pitch of climbing on a large steep slab covered in cracks. We just couldn't stop climbing....well actually we all we bitching pussies by the summitt. If I think of anything else important to the actual route, i'll post it. Rolf and Dan are free to call bullshit, i don't care. feel free to downgrade it to I+ 5.6 55meters. anyone know the name of this tower? if it has one that is. Gear Notes: set and a half cams up to 4", nuts Approach Notes: can't see the tower till you're almost there

i like his solo stuff more

He wears his harness alpine fashion..."he will know the ways as if born to them"

huh???

Mark Knopfler is my favorite artist. I really wish I was in town for that!!!

More like: -I must not fear. Fear is the mind killer. Fear is the little death that I must let wash over me and pass through me, until only I will remain.

you talking about freeing the aid move over the roof on the sweet 5.9 pitch?

actually, the words "we could be in Skaha right now" came out of one of our mouths at the base.

hi ivan!

wayne did some moster climb of nooksack and traverse...not sure of the exact route or summits. some dude soloed the nf according to the register, but he stated that it was pretty over his head and he'd never do that again.

Where is my shit! I'm missing so much gear. Give it back!!! Thank you

Nice work guys! Fun route, shitty descent anyway you go.

Matt, i knew you did this route and was thinkin' of ya on the way up! What year did you do it in? As for the bivy, one of the instruction manuals told us that there was a spot right at the base of the route. when we got there and realized the knob was the spot of choice, we weren't too excited about going back down, and having to re-climb back up in the am. The rockclimbing was the easiest part of the climb. Hardest climbing was only 5.9 and the "5.7" pitches were cruiser. The 5.8's were a bit runout in spots. A full package! I should point out, like most of the longer routes i've done, was the 1st long route my partner and i had ever done together! So much for the shakedown. I trusted Ivan from our "committing" crag routes we've done toghether at beacon and broughtons!

No! Put it back on the list!!!! I had a lot of fun.

start calling her MEnopause

call Andy at the American Alpine Institute. he's been there before. 360-671-1570

The Tower The Log Necro on one of the many times up there: Approaching Camp: The Kitchen My Bedroom: Pretty sunset. The views of the surrounding peaks up north is unbeatable. Truly amazing mountains we've got in the cascades and coast ranges. Ivan on pitch 2 Me about to enter the crux pitch Ivan Climbing High on route: Rapin' off Harrowing descent: "I don't wanna go down there!!!" A special place for me. I miss it already.