layton

thanks all

After talking with Capillini, we are pretty sure that 1.)it's a grade III 5.10 (super sustained, but not super duper technical) and those other guys in the 70's more likely than not went straight up from middle of pitch two cuz its more obvious and more straightforeward. Dan also thinks they came in from the left and didn't do Rolf's dihedral pitch. So if anyone knows their line and if it was on this spire, please contact me.

Hey, So i've got about an hour of truly amazing digital video footage i took with my friends camera. My problem is that i don't have a firewire jack on my laptop to edit from the video camera he has (only option to connect his camera to my 'puter as far as either of us know). Anyway, i've do two killer digital video tapes just laying around. I need to edit them down b/c 80% of the footage is unusable shakey, swirley, sunglaring crap. Any ideas of how i can either a.)hook the dig video camera to the computer so i can edit with Premier or b.)where can i go to edit and save the good clips to cd? thank you so much for helping! i will share my footage when i am done.

Hey, So i've got about an hour of truly amazing digital video footage i took with my friends camera. My problem is that i don't have a firewire jack on my laptop to edit from the video camera he has (only option to connect his camera to my 'puter as far as either of us know). Anyway, i've do two killer digital video tapes just laying around. I need to edit them down b/c 80% of the footage is unusable shakey, swirley, sunglaring crap. Any ideas of how i can either a.)hook the dig video camera to the computer so i can edit with Premier or b.)where can i go to edit and save the good clips to cd? thank you so much for helping! i will share my footage when i am done.

Hey, So i've got about an hour of truly amazing digital video footage i took with my friends camera. My problem is that i don't have a firewire jack on my laptop to edit from the video camera he has (only option to connect his camera to my 'puter as far as either of us know). Anyway, i've do two killer digital video tapes just laying around. I need to edit them down b/c 80% of the footage is unusable shakey, swirley, sunglaring crap. Any ideas of how i can either a.)hook the dig video camera to the computer so i can edit with Premier or b.)where can i go to edit and save the good clips to cd? thank you so much for helping! i will share my footage when i am done.

hey! nice dude! remember me BTW? we guided baker together sooo long ago.

Rolf, they also could've gone straight up from pitch 2, which was a more obvious line while on route. it would be neat to see if they did that and see what type of line that would've made. we'll probably never know. anyways, i'm still gonna call it acid baby cuz it's fun to say. just did the first ascent of the entire n cascades range today if anyone is interested.

Rolf wants to do dragonfly, not madness. madness looks pretty stupid. we only had one day so no go on davis. Dan, I'd like to know more about that route. how did you hear of it? maybe they're the same or share pitches? did it get in the AAJ but not the Beckey or something?

couldn't say...i got a headache looking at the becky guide. I think the Aasgard sentinel was south facing, and this thing was west facing. It's most of the way up the pass, pretty obvious when you're close to it, and it's near where the trail gets close to the walls on the east side of the pass aroudn a grove of trees.

it's only a model

that nut we foudn was very old. non-wire type, and the sling was completely rotted away. there are way easier option to get to that ledge where the nut was. i'm assuming someone went exploring and bailed. but ya never know, so sick old hardman/woman could'a sent it with bongs, hexes, pins, coconuts, and a few floppy style nuts. a quality line like this so close to the pass should have been recorded or whispers and rumors at least. and if you read carefully, i have FRA, not FA...we just like giving things names. I'd wager it's an FA, but as with most things in life, who the fuck cares? it was just nice not to be tied down with an instruction manual. Just like i read too deeply into other folks's comments, be aware that you may do the same with mine when I post a TR...especially of an FA. The reason i post these is for one to avoid confusion for further "repeat" 1st ascents of the same route! I'm definately not sitting up on a throne say...ha ha look how fucking cool we are. If someone else did it before, great, good for them. It's the adventure of not knowing that i like. I sure wish they reported it though, kinda silly not to unless it's stupid. Finally, the whole grading thing is a total bitch. I try to give an honest opinion of what i think the grade is without trying to look like a hardman by sandbagging, or a megalomaniac by overgrading. It's so damn subjective. I would love to have someone climb something I've done and downgrade the shit out of it, but to tell me, hey thanks that was a heck of a lot of fun, i'm glad you spotted that sweet line.

yeah i had to guide that fucker in april! screw that bullshit, i herded em to camp and said avy conditions were bad...waited...and got my measely $150. No way would i get paid that to herd folks up in winter with absolutely no experience. that said, super easy in summer. no problem. do it, thousands of other have!

weed wacker wire works great on camalots cuz they've got bigger holes. melt the knots into blobs with a lighter. they've held up for years and make your cams lighter too!

yeah dude... get some high test fishing line (you just need a bit, so you may be able to steal some from a spool when nobodys watchin' ya at Fred Meyer or Home Depot) cut the old bits of wire off with some snippers. tie a double granny knot and thread the line through, pinch hold the cam lobes together, and somehow tie a knot on the other end nice n' snug against the hole on the other lobe (the crux). Violin! Cam's fixed.

what happened to the 1st guy's legs???? the somehow disappeared or something!!!??

glad i was useful to someone at some point in my life. fun times and nice photos

Listen to the Rat! (but go climbing with him before you do, or else you may find yourself a bit over your head...if he was neil armstrong he would have said "someone's probably been here before" and give it a moderate approach rating and a minor feat for mankind) actually climbing with the RAT gives you a new insight to reading instruction manuals...who's to say the FA's listed were the FA's, and who's to say the grade is what they said it was. All I know is it took us the major portion of the day to climb it and we got served on a number of pitches. I wouldn't hop this if i were just breaking into the grade. CBR felt easier to me by days end in comparison. The only reason i care is b/c i don't really feel like editing the topo, but the topo was hard to figure out after pitch 3 b/c of the foreshortening effect. Go do it! It's only 2 hours from the car damnit. final beta. it's totally obvious after p3...but when you get to what looks like the summit pulpit (not the summit) go straight-up. don't wuss out to the left on ramps or you'll miss the exciting, exposed ridge crest and you'll have to live with your decision the rest of your life and you may hate yourself soooo badly, you might wind up like the RAT, living in your rat hole, and girls will throw rocks at you.

maybe? my reasoning was that they were very long pitches (about 1000' total) and the climb was sustained at 5.10 for almost every pitch....plus with our "8th" bonus pitch.

CLICK HERE FOR TOPO Non B/W foreshortened topo w/o info added so you can see the cracks n' stuff Acid Baby from Asguard Pass. Climb starts on left at toe of buttress, crosses under alcove in middle, and takes exposed ridge cracks to top. Rolf starts up the 1st pitch Rolf finishes up the 1st pitch on the crux of the climb (only 1/2 the dihedral is shown) Dan on pitch 2. Dan got all the easiest pitches Rolf takes the non-retarded way on pitch 3 Dan follows the exposed traverse on pitch 3 Rolf hamming it up on pitch 6 Dan follows the exciting exposed ridge crest of pitch 6 There are many was to peg out the contrive-o-meter near the top. We burried the needle. Dan said if i called this part of the climb he'd put my mouth on the curb and step on the back of my head. Here's Dan on the final pitch...that i like to call "the New Pearly Gates" Pitch #9 looms in the distance! Our shadows on top of enchantment peak Rolf bouldered ever single one of these on the descent. Dan and I had to tear him away from any further 'proj. Wish I had someone to give all these pretty flowers to. please email me with photos (don't type anything though).

Climb: FRA-Acid Baby III+ 5.10 approx 1000' climbing-Dan Cappellini, Rolf Larson, Mike Layton Date of Climb: 7/31/2005 Trip Report: "Now that we've climbed together, I think you're ready to meet Dan," Rolf stated at 6am in Leavenworth. The three of us had a blast doing a fantastic climb up on Asguard Pass across from the NE face of D-tail. All three of us knew of the line, although they tried to get me to do d-tail madness or the boving route instead. i made lies why we needed to do this route. We get to the base. Crap, this is gonna be quick. What looked like a 4-5 pitch climb now looked like 3 pitches max. At least it'll be over quickly...We got back to the car at 10:30pm. I posted a topo (too big for here) in my gallery. I'll add the link on my next post when i put up the photos. Anyway, our climb ACID BABY turned out to be unrelently steep, quality, and a clean line. I pegged out the contrive-o-meter when my pitch came up by trying to go directly up the roof in the center of the face. After an hour-long battle with gear and fear I backed off. I had a 1/2way in nut, a grey tcu that kept pulling out when i moved, an RP between two removeable stones, and a belayer-slayer i was standing on trying to make the impossibe (for me) reach up over and aroudn the roof. I fell and nearly shat myself in the process. The nut pulled, but came to a stop when the remain metal that was touching the rock somehow held. My RP and TCU blew out. I got real bloody! After a lot of "gosh mike, you're retarded" Rolf slung his balls over his shoulder and gave the roof a go. Much swearing and "careful" grumbling later, Rolf downclimbed my horror show, not as excited to be lowered off my nut as I was. "Well if Rolf couldn't do it," I though.... Anyway, I got the seat of SHAME while Rolf took the obvious and way better way to go up super exposed cracks, ridges, and traversing. Dan and I got stellar pitches, and more stellar pitches led to the top. Turned out to be about 1,000' of climbing all pitches very physical and almost every pitch in the 5.10 range, two being very sustained 5.10. Maybe my photos will do it more justice then my not so good TR (i'm tired and don't have time to post this later). We topped out on top of Enchantment peak after fully burying the CONTRIVE-O-METER on top by doing a sweet pitch of climbing on a large steep slab covered in cracks. We just couldn't stop climbing....well actually we all we bitching pussies by the summitt. If I think of anything else important to the actual route, i'll post it. Rolf and Dan are free to call bullshit, i don't care. feel free to downgrade it to I+ 5.6 55meters. anyone know the name of this tower? if it has one that is. Gear Notes: set and a half cams up to 4", nuts Approach Notes: can't see the tower till you're almost there

He wears his harness alpine fashion..."he will know the ways as if born to them"

huh???

More like: -I must not fear. Fear is the mind killer. Fear is the little death that I must let wash over me and pass through me, until only I will remain.

you talking about freeing the aid move over the roof on the sweet 5.9 pitch?

actually, the words "we could be in Skaha right now" came out of one of our mouths at the base.