Jason_Martin

The situation as it is stated here is actually quite serious. It is also somewhat unlikely. However, knowing what to do in the situation can only be a good thing. The following response is assuming that you are on a multi-pitch route in a remote area. In a populated area, help may be availble from other climbers. If the route is only a pitch long, the best thing to do is to lower the victim to the ground instead of screwing around with all kinds of other stuff. First and foremost, if it is possible, (i.e. there is no gear between you and the climber) then the best thing to do is to haul the climber up. This can be done with a Z-C pully system which is actually much easier to visualize on the rock than it is on the snow. If the climber is conscious, but cannot climb one could still haul the climber up and have him retrieve gear that is in place as he is hauled. If the climber is unconscious and there is a bit of rope at the belay, then the best thing to do is to escape the belay using the munter mule knot and to rappel down to him on the other end of the rope. A belay escape can be quite difficult if belaying directly off the harness. It is a little easier if the belay is redirected. And it is a lot easier if one is belaying directly off the anchor. Here is a situation where an extra rope is nice. If there is a loose haul line or anything of the sort, don't forget about it. Something like this might make the whole rescue easier to deal with. In the absolute worst case scenario -- you're many pitches off deck, there's no one around to help, the climber is unconscious on the other end of the rope, there is no haul line to rappel, there's a lot of gear between you and the climber, there's not enough rope to rappel down to him -- then perhaps some of these other ideas might be effective. In other words using a sling or a cord as a prussik to descend to the climber is not a bad idea, but it should truly be a last resort I think this is a good subject. Thinking about a worst case scenario prepares people for more likely scenarios. Jason

Just a reminder to all our contributers, it's getting closer and closer to our deadline. On December 15th we need all the info available. Here's a new question... Does anybody know anything about the mixed routes being put up on the opposite side of Mountaineers Creek above Bridge Creek Campground? Please email me if you have any info. Jason

Thanks Dale, we'll definately be in touch on that. I'm still in dire need of a photo of the Northwest Face of Mt. Stuart in the winter. If anyone has one or knows someone who has one, please let me know. Jason [ 11-25-2002, 09:21 AM: Message edited by: Jason Martin ]

Alex and I are getting close to our deadline. We need all of our beta and info for "Washington Ice: A Climbing Guide" by December 15th. We are definately getting down to the wire, so if you have information or photos, please send them to us. I am specifically looking for photos of the following: 1) Northwest Face of Colfax Peak in Winter? 2) Northwest Face of Mt. Stuart in Winter? 3) Any Photos of Ice Climbing in Mt. Rainier National Park? As far as information is concerned, does anyone have any first or even second hand knowledge of: 1) Two waterfall ice climbs near Nada Lake? 2) Two waterfall ice climbs above Snow Lake? 3) A climb near (or above?) the golf course in Leavenworth? 4) The climb left of "Mikey's Gully" in Mt. Rainier National Park? 5) Any information at all concerning winter climbs of Big Four Mountain prior to 1995? Feel free to add to this list Alex. My email is j_dougie@yahoo.com and I can be reached at (206)459-8753. Alex's email is: wastateice@yahoo.com Thanks to all who have helped with this project. Jason [ 11-18-2002, 09:37 AM: Message edited by: Jason Martin ]

Mark Twight

The Northwest Face Couloir on Mt. Stuart is supposed to be some kind of old skool classic. Apparentley in the eighties this was a testpiece climb... Considered far more difficult than Triple Couloirs and the like. Anybody done it in the last couple years? Sorry about the weird triple post thing, my computer -- or maybe my mouse trigger finger -- doesn't seem to want to work right. Jason [ 11-14-2002, 03:50 PM: Message edited by: Jason Martin ]

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[ 11-14-2002, 03:48 PM: Message edited by: Jason Martin ]

[ 11-14-2002, 03:49 PM: Message edited by: Jason Martin ]

December 31st is the day we have to turn in the draft. So the cutoff day for beta is mid-december. Jason

In the year 2000 the Mountaineers Ice course went to Brian Burdo and asked him where there could be a so called "official" drytooling area. The result is the location previously posted here. This particular area is not super hot. It's a bit low angle and slabby. However there are numerous climbs here. However, there have been reports of fun mixed climbs down the railroad grade a bit at the Exit 38 climbing area. Periodically there is ice between "Slippery when Wet" and "Stick Boy", sometimes there's ice between "Hangover Helper" and "Home Erectus" and sometimes on "Just Dessert." The Cobblestone Wall on Mt. Baker Highway has seen a bit of drytooling action. Apparently Scott DeCapio has sent a 5.8 route here in full ice climbing regalia. And lastly, the Toolshed, which requires real skill to climb at can be found near Pan Dome Falls in the Mt. Baker Ski Area. Jason

There are easily accessable anchors on top. Though if you're just learning to drytool, freesoloing probably is not a hot idea. Too many sharp objects. Jason

There is no way the crew on the 96 ascent could have known anything about previous ascents. And I do believe that the article written in the AAJ was a good article. I don't mean to attack anyone claiming first ascents when the previous ascentionists did not report their routes. Believe me, this is a phenomenon that has existed throughout the climbing community forever. Routes are commonly not reported or are but the beta doesn't get out early enough. Alan Kearney and Greg Cronn's route was a First Ascent. However it was not the first ascent of the North Face. Their route does not follow the first ascent line. There were at least three other lines put up prior to the 96 line. All the information presented here is based on rather tedious research and is not hearsay. I'm sorry if you take offense. That is not what I was trying to do. I was simply trying to let people know the history of the mountain. Jason [ 11-07-2002, 12:20 PM: Message edited by: Jason Martin ]

Winter, It's supposed to rain in Red Rocks this weekend. Jason

The "official" drytooling area can be found below the trestle directly across from the westbound exit 38 exit. From I-90 eastbound, take exit 38 and drive 1.7 miles to FS road 9020. Turn onto 9020 and drive two tenths of a mile to where an overgrown jeep trail leaves the south side of the road. Hike the jeep trail through light trees to its end at a talus slope about five minutes from the car. There is a very rough trail along the left side of the talus slope to the base of the crag. Numerous slabby somewhat low angle lines exist here. Directly above the railroad grade a mixed ice route sometimes comes in called CYA. Jason

More likely than not, the Paull and Littauer ascent of Spindrift Couloir was the third ascent. Rich Calstad and Cal Folsom did a route in the same general vicinity in 1974. In 1984, Steve Swenson and Greg Child climbed the same general line as Paull and Littauer. Then in 1996, the two teenagers did their thing. There is the strong possiblity that there was another ascent in between the Child/Swenson and the Paull/Littauer ascents, but it hasn't been confirmed. Some of these guys who have been climbing here for a long time weren't real into reporting everything they did. As a result, the first report of the route was not until Climbing Magazine #162 and then the 1997 AAJ. Jason [ 11-07-2002, 11:02 AM: Message edited by: Jason Martin ]

Alex and I don't have any info on the "Toolshed" yet. Any beta would be appreciated. Jason: j_dougie@yahoo.com Alex: wastateice@yahoo.com Jason [ 11-01-2002, 06:36 PM: Message edited by: Jason Martin ]

I just recently came across this and thought it worth sharing. It's a pretty cool list with an even cooler idea behind it. Joshua Tree Crack Workshop Jason

I've never pitched out the third and fourth class. If you pitch that out it's certainly going to be a long day. Six pitches was an estimate off the top of my head. Swain's book gives it ten pitches. I know we did it in less than that. Jason [ 10-17-2002, 04:46 PM: Message edited by: Jason Martin ]

It is important to note that that the Urioste Guide is a trad guide. You have to get the Swain book if you want to be able to find the sport climbs. You can get the Urioste book at Desert Rock Sports on West Charleston about fifteen minutes east of the Red Rock loop road. In theory Swain's next edition of his guide will be a "comprehensive" look at all routes in Red Rock. Jason

Ropegun, I think Mike is joking. The Swain book is one of the worst. Jason

Jubilant Song is confusing at the top. There are harder ways to go and easier ways. Some of the ways are on very friable rock. And sometimes the easier ways don't look easier... But with that in mind, everything on Jubilant Song is fun until the very top where the route is not super clear. I think the move you're talking about on Frogland feels sketchy because it's so cruiser up to that point... Then suddenly out of the blue there's a hard move. Jason [ 10-17-2002, 10:25 AM: Message edited by: Jason Martin ]

Personally I like a-d, regardless of if it's trad or sport.

Personally I like a-d, regardless of if it's trad or sport.

I stand by Jubilent Song. It's quite a good route. I've done it three times and it has been enjoyable each time. The guidebook calls Black Orpheous a 10-. But like Burdo, Swain is trying to solidify the grade system. It's arguable whether this is a good or bad thing. But the result is that grades can be confusing to some visitors. Following is a quote from his book: "True Sport climbs have ratings subdivided by letter grades (a-d), as was introduced by Jim Birdwell of Yosemite fame. Routes that require some amount of traditional gear have the subdivisons of minus and plus. These 'gear subdivisions' are used on climbs 5.10 or harder, with a rating of 5.10- being equal in difficulty to 5.10a" And certainly for twenty or so feet, Black Orpheous feels tenish. The guidebook gives Rainbow Buttress eight pitches. Though the vast majority of the long routes in Red Rock can be done in far fewer pitches, especially if you have a sixty meter rope. Even in February you'll have more than three hours of sun on Resolution Arete... Perhaps Dru is right it might not be a full half-day, but it's longer than three hours. Regardless of all this, my original list was simply to help people identify sunny routes and plan trips to Red Rock in the winter. It is not meant to be a guidebook. Jason