jtflyfisher

You go on a climb with 3 nalgenes. You come back with two and only one is original. You go again and come back with one and its one you lost the first trip. And so it goes.... You dont really OWN a nalgene, you buy it and donate it to the global pool of lost bottles......

Diedre- fell at the step up/over 1/2-way up the dihedral. I just kept skidding down the rather grinding granite. When it all finally stopped I looked up to the last piece I'd placed (that held) and noticed that ALL the other pieces on the pitch were gone. I asked my belayer where they had gone and he says "oh, they all fell out before you fell, I didn't want to scare you so I didn't tell you. This taught me two things: If I don't learn to place gear I will soon be dead and my climbing buddy has the judgement of a drunk flea. I also learned that any fall on Deidre is so lame that I should probably start golfing with the blown-tendon guy.....

While getting geared up for Outer Space, from way above, in a cracking, terrified voice- TAAaaaake, for the love-a-GOD TAAAAAAAAAAAKE!!!!!! This was a few minutes before I said- Did you just piss right there on that tree? Yeah, why not? Couple minutes later the goat shows up and drives us off the ledge. THATS WHY, You friggin' idgit!!

What time is it when you see a Mountie Chicksa bent over a climb? Mountin' Time!!!

About two years ago I tweaked a finger on Princley Ambitions and built a hefty belay out of 3 large hexes to get lowered off. Me and my buddy stood around for awhile to see if we could con someone into snaggin' it down but left it there. Did anyone of you BootyMasters get my goods?

I've been using a Coleman Xtreme stove for a while now and it has replaced all my other stoves except for the XGK. Its not light compared to a soda can but it is next to an MSR. Burns super hot and simmers great. The fuel canister feeds the fuel as a liquid so it does not lose efficiency in the cold. The cans are also recyclable. And no priming.

Southwest Rib of South Early Winter Spire Sunday then Beckey route Tues. Two things: One: Goddamn am I fat and slow! Fuck! Two: The gully into the Beckey Route can kiss my ass. You'll have to have a large hand gun to get me there again.

I was very new to the rock and we were up on Guye Peak. About 4 or 5 pitches in my leader hit a move he could not make. He set the rap anchor with the #10 Stopper he had found fixed right there. There was no backup at all, the anchor was a solitary, found piece. He looked at me and said, "this is going to be the smoothest rap of your life!" It took two more incidents like this to get me to quit climbing with the dude. So I'm a slow learner. BTW- Didn't you get him to mix YOU a couple screwdrivers? [This message has been edited by jtflyfisher (edited 09-05-2001).]

This past week I have been in contact with MM about the trip I have scheduled with them this weekend. When all the other clients bailed, it left just me on the trip. A statement was made by MM staff that if the trip goes with only one client they will not only not make $$ they might lose some (after overhead) but the guide will. It seems that they are standing up to the agreement and letting the trip happen anyway. Why am I saying all this? MM as a business is playing the game with good Karma. With me at least.

SSSSSSssssssssss. There you go, that'll be five bucks. The next is only four if you bring back the balloon. Have a good show! [This message has been edited by jtflyfisher (edited 08-24-2001).]

The Savage Arena Boardman Everest- The West Ridge Hornbein Hornbein and another leave the main group to tackle the west ridge. It is considered unclimbable and they hit a wall, if they go for it the only way off the mountain is to summit over unknown terrain and meet the main summit party. And I think I'm hard! WRONG!

While at work at the repair counter of an outdoor retailer once located on Capitol hill a guy came up to me and started telling me a story about trying to take a crap at Muir in the middle of the night when his headlamp quits. Well, its an REI lamp and I start in on how its a piece of shit and he should never rely it and should get a Petzl. Thats when I state that he looks like Beckey. He stops talking, stares at me like I'm an idiot and says while walking away, "I get alot of that!" Customer Service lives!

On my workout shirt: Old, Fat and Weak Two of those are fixin'ta change!

Just checking!

Ok, straight up, this is what its about for me. When I worked at R(cough)E(cough,sneeze, look away)I, I always had someone better than me to climb with. Now that I've moved on from there I have a severe shortage of partners. And I lead for all I have. (All, my ass, its 2) This has shown me I need some more instruction if I'm gonna keep leading and training my friends. AND I'v wanted to climb Washington Pass for years. Time to combine both so I can learn better technique and the routes so I can lead them safely later.

In a local dive bar. (to my buddy, What about that one? He looks all climby?) Saunter over, "hey there! Can I buy you a drink? You look all tough and your hands are ripped to shit, wanna guide me?" Is that how you pick up leaders in bars? LOL!

I agree with Dru and Norm. My biggest trad leads were Princely Ambitions and Godzilla. I want to push into bigger multi-pitch and I currently dont have anybody to follow. I almost quit the sport until a couple buddies wanted to start so I'm on the sharp end with them. I'm already down with this trip and am way stoked about it! And I could really use some rope handling and route finding instruction. As for making climbing friends maybe I can do that around here?

OK, new question. I was indocrinated to think that hiring a guide was a bad/desperate act. Starting to sound like its no bad thing at all, but can be a quality addition to a climbing career. Do you folks agree?

Sounds like I'm gonna have a blast! The trip goes off in Sept. I'll get back to the board with some feedback on my return.

Its good to hear all the positive feedback! I've been a weekend warrior for some years now and need to get to the next level. I wish I had shopped the guide services a little more, but the $$ are in with MM and they are the choice this time out. As for the negative stuff I've heard, I used to work for a large local outdoor retailer and many of the employees (my friends) developed harsh opinions of almost all of the services. If I listened long enough ALL the services were either good-bad, cool-nasty, rock solid-scarey dangerous. Couple last things. I have NEVER surfed before, it was a buddys idea. Matt Fioretti is cool, I met him while working at the aforementioned retailer. Thanks everybody! ;-)

Hey, I've been just lurking around and finally came up with a question. When my surfing trip to Brazil crapped out I traded it in on a Mountain Madness trip to Early Winter Spires. (always wanted to climb there but dont know anyone who know the place) I've been hearing good and bad about MM. Question is: What is your opinion of MM? (I cant wait to hear the spray on me getting a guide!)

They gave you a refurb. They'll rebuild yours later and give it to the next guy.

Ok, down here in an old thread I'm gonna tell the truth (I was proud in the beginning...that changed) I ran the REI repair counter at the old and new stores for 5 yrs. The mildew recipe we used goes like this: One gallon hot water One cup lysol Drench the item, use a sponge if nec. DO NOT RINSE but allow to dry One gallon hot water One cup lemon juice Drench, sponge Do not rinse, allow to dry THEN fully rinse the item. Big hassle but it works and can save nylon from the garbage.

AArrgghh! First post and I screw it up! Its 'I am here to chew gum and kick ass, and I am OUT of gum!' (heres to proof reading yourself)

"I am here to chew gum and kick ass!" From Rowdy Roddy Piper in that 'You can see the aliens with these sunglasses movie'!