Courtenay

There are perhaps several things you might be able to do: 1) swim (if you can't grip but can still move the hand to some degree without difficulty; is it in a cast?) -- great therapeutic exercise and one of the best things you can do for upper strength when limited by gripping 2) try using heavy resistance (full loop) Jump Stretch bands wrapped around wrist or elbow so you can continue to work lats/rhomboids (e-mail back if you want phone number/more info; this may be a good thing to put on the Body Results web site, so stay tuned!) 3) any difficulty pressing? Can you do pushups, for example, but just no gripping of weights or cables? 4) some machines (gasp! I never recommend them except in rare cases! ) may allow you to work upper body (shoulder raises, triceps extensions, flyes and the like) without requiring any gripping. Good luck and keep us posted on your progress! ------------------ Courtenay Schurman, CSCS

Hi Peter, Sherpa Jim -- Regarding your questions about a compact pack, I definitely recommend you train with something that will strengthen hip, core and leg muscles appropriately without straining upper cervical and thoracic spine -- using a smaller pack with dense weight (2x25#) puts undue stress on the upper back and neck and may result in your quitting the workout earlier than you normally would. Here's a suggestion: why not try leaving the bulk of your pack training outside on real hills (both so the bulk won't get in other people's way, and so you appropriately strengthen ankles, calves, hips and legs that don't necessarily get the same work on a treadmill, stair master or elliptical) 1-2 times a week and go for higher intensity without pack (or medium intensity with a lighter, more compact pack) when in the gym? This allows more variety in your workouts without running the risk of overtraining. ------------------ Courtenay Schurman, CSCS

MrGoodTime, I'd say "go for it" with small ankle weights to simulate heavier plastic boots, but any MORE weight than 2.5-3# won't necessarily provide you with "functional" leg strength. Any additional weight should be added to a hip belt or backpack to train the appropriate hip, core, and leg muscles to be stronger. As for "hurting your knees", that's a rather common refrain from many gym trainers who tend to work with the general population rather than sports-specific athletes. ------------------ Courtenay Schurman, CSCS

Actually, another advantage to gels (though this is speculation on my part, I don't have references or proof to support it) is they won't easily freeze -- like carb drinks, or bars that become impossible to chew. Any carbs in liquid (or "gel") form will be more quickly assimilated into the blood stream and hence used for energy -- marathon runners love them because you don't have to chew, just sort of swallow. If the thought of taking a bite of ANYTHING at altitude turns your stomach, have gel or Gu on hand so at least you'll have SOME energy to keep going. And I'd also suggest you try these at lower elevation to find a flavor you like -- worst thing in the world is to rely on something you've never tasted before, only to find it's so gross you have to go without any energy at all... ------------------ Courtenay Schurman, CSCS

Well, I can't say I've been in the armed forces (or I'd be pulling the wool over everyone's eyes) but to answer JIMI's post (5 strands up) I actually split my training into 2 6-month sections: 6 months I train in preparation for endurance climbs of the Cascades (Rainier, Baker, Adams, rock climbs and the like) and the other 6 months I ditch my rock shoes and climbing boots for chalk and a weight belt -- and compete in powerlifting meets! Now I KNOW some of you are probably thinking I'm contradicting myself -- but if you can squat and deadlift massive amounts of weight, a pack seems so unbelievably light over such great distances!! And to keep my upper body balanced with the chest work involved in benching, I do pullups with added weight and seated rows, which then help my grip, forearms, and finger strength and endurance during rock climbing season. Key is to keep the weight down but have as much "usable" muscle as possible, so as to not make it too difficult to carry the weight to the summits during spring/summer... ------------------ Courtenay Schurman, CSCS

Hi JIMI, Like Snow pointed out, the best exercise is what you'll actually do consistently. Some people hate running but love climbing stairs with a pack -- the latter will be more effective for that person who dreads going out for a jog. However, you can get a lot more specific -- depending on your ultimate goals. If, for example, you'd like to climb a trad route at 5.11b, you'll train differently (and eat differently!) than if your goal is to summit Mt. Rainier via the Emmons Glacier. At Body Results we train people from all over the Pacific Northwest who are training for any and all types of climbing (Denali to 5.12's to trekking to alpine skiing to newbie climbers or snowshoers) and who want guidance doing so. We develop training programs which include specifics for cardiovascular, strength, flexibility training, a calendar of what to do when, and general nutrition guidelines. For more information on WebTrainer or Seattle training, visit www.bodyresults.com or www.bodyresults.com/P1Webtrainer.htm. ------------------ Courtenay Schurman, CSCS

Sounds like there's been some improvement! Another thought I had that was sparked by your comment "my off season is pretty non-existent": try taking 1-2 weeks in between rock and ice climbing, and then ice and rock climbing in spring, to completely rest the pulling muscles -- and cross train for active recovery. This will give your body the breather (i.e. REST) it needs to keep performing at its optimal and prevent injury. Climb on! ------------------ Courtenay Schurman, CSCS

Hey there Jon, Snow -- Thanks for the comments here. I've heard great things about Cytomax for carb replacement for gym workouts; we'll have to give it a try out in the wilderness as well. I, too, prefer gu for high altitudes. As for my own daily experience, I've found that the 40-30-30 (Zone, PR, etc.) bars work fairly well, especially for getting lean off season, although when I'm out climbing in-season, I feel there are not enough carbs to support long efforts. Turkey sandwiches (on bagels or bread) seem to work just as well. What do you all think about your energy levels when eating these bars? ------------------ Courtenay Schurman, CSCS

Hey there Ade, Any improvement in your condition? Some other ideas I had on this: make sure on the off-season that you are working the opposing muscle groups to climbing muscles to keep the rest of you in balance -- in other words, doing reverse wrist curls can help balance out the forearm muscles; doing pressing exercises can balance out the pulling muscles; and adding triceps exercises can help develop muscle balance in the arms. Let us know how you're doing. ------------------ Courtenay Schurman, CSCS

Hey all, I'm getting ready to write an article on energy bars and drinks and just wanted to see what your favorites are for climbing energy. My favorites: fruit punch Gatorade (my husband prefers fierce lime) and Protein Plus Power Bars (chocolate fudge brownie or peanut butter). I also love the new flavors of Balance Bars: Balance Gold (tastes like a Snickers!), lemon meringue, and chocolate mint (tastes like Andes candies.) However, I also know that the 40-30-30 bars are not the best for endurance trips (like Adams or Rainier) because they are a little too LOW in carbs; for those trips, adding dried fruit to my favorite trail mix does the trick. How about the rest of you? Any particular favorites you'd like to share with the world? ------------------ Courtenay Schurman, CSCS

Hi there Daniel, regarding 1) actually, what I'd hope people would understand is that they'd need to change the weight they plug in on the stairmaster, or yes indeedy, it will be quite a different workout. I still prefer to have clients go outside and do hills or stairs, but that's not always an option in inclement weather. regarding 2a) if your body can handle trail running, by all means go for it. It's a good way to train, but not everyone has the ankles/knees/hips for it as a first choice. You might want to include it as one of several training methods and cycle through them (to prevent overuse.) What are your overuse injuries you're currently recovering from? regarding 2b) I suggest people use whatever weight they're going to be using most often in the mountains. If you go light and fast, then use that weight and go light and fast. If you are a slogger who likes to carry the kitchen sink with you for comfort, then to get the body and muscles used to carrying it, the best way is to ... carry the heavy weight. Good points! ------------------ Courtenay Schurman, CSCS

And how about energy levels following consumption of those bars, Alex? Other bars I find to be tolerable are the PR bars, although again, they're the 40-30-30 mix and are good for daily consumption, but leave me "bonking" to some degree when out on a strenuous climb. Where do you hope to publish/print your review, magazine or on-line? Might be interesting to share opinions/results!

Hey there Snow, I enjoy cross country skiing, though I don't get a chance to do it all that often. When I lived in Milwaukee, WI at times I could just open my door and ski through town. That's only happened twice since I've been in Seattle (moved here in 1990) but when it happens, what fun! A good place to learn is up around Kecheelus Lake (sp?) near the railroad grade up by Snoqualmie Pass -- nice and level and a great place to really stride out. We also just got snowshoes and hope to spend a little more time on them this year. Anyone out there try rondonee or tele skiing? ------------------ Courtenay Schurman, CSCS

Hey there Lhotse, Here's some more information on fairly priced elliptical 544's (we just announced this in our newsletter, as well -- www.bodyresults.com/E2nl15.htm): call Exercise Specialties (425-754-7783.) They are up in Everett. Good luck and let me know what you get! We're getting a 544 from Ex. Specs. Ciao! ------------------ Courtenay Schurman, CSCS

Okay Snow, Here goes! (You asked for it!) Point 1) Seriously, I'd actually AGREE with you about the biking getting you ready for moving through any and all of the elements -- and then some (when else will you be racing through sleet and snow at 15-20 mph in the mountains, unless you're on a snowboard or skis?) Point 2) I'd be up for 2-4 hours of pack work (hiking), step aerobics, or elliptical, but not the others (although there was a time when I was into marathoning...) Point 3) True. I'd still issue a caveat here -- like any other activity you do, I'd suggest you put in AT LEAST one day of rest, in order to let your body fully recover, and also throw in at least one day of cross-training, for the same reason. If you do the same thing, day in and day out, you run the risk of imbalances -- which can lead to injuries. Point 4) Don't forget strength training! ------------------ Courtenay Schurman, CSCS

Hey there Jim, And you are not alone. I do most of my training during the week in the city (pack hiking, step aerobics, biking, precor cross trainer) because of time limitations. But I felt better than ever this past year on Rainier/Emmons -- and that's MINUS running training of any kind! So once again, I emphasize the importance of doing what you enjoy doing, If you hate the thought of running to be in hiking shape, you're never going to stick to it for long. By the way, I really like the different opinions being posted here -- we're simply discussing (I haven't seen any harsh words or debates yet -- at least compared to many of the other boards I've seen! ------------------ Courtenay Schurman, CSCS

Hey there Jon, Nice post. I think more people will agree with you than will disagree -- and I for one believe 110% in cross-training (both for myself and all my clients), not only to keep your body in balance and work muscles that don't otherwise get used, but also to keep you mentally fresh. I've had several people recently tell me they've gotten burned out on their normal routine (good programs for climbing) and are looking for some new motivation and inspiration, and the very first thing I suggest we do off-season is get them doing something they haven't been doing lately -- such as biking, swimming, aerobics classes, yoga, Nordictrack, inline skating, basketball, rowing, or the like. If you are forever and a day doing treadmill, stairs, hills and running, you run the risk of burnout as well as potentially straining muscles in the ankles, hips or knees from overuse. Off-season is a great time to add a totally different sport for variety, and especially if you can use similar energy systems. It's not always a question of "what's best for the sport"; sometimes the question is "what's best to prevent burnout and injury so I can keep my enthusiasm high." Hence the increasing popularity of triathlons and all forms of cross-training. Good post. Do others have thoughts to contribute? ------------------ Courtenay Schurman, CSCS

And then there's the old stand by that I always do following a climbing session: reverse wrist curls with a barbell or 2 dumbbells. You can do these while seated on a bench with arms propped on your knees, or you can kneel in front of a bench and rest your forearms on the bench with hands just off the edge. A variation I like on these is to put the thumbs together with the fingers, so you can work the wrist extensors through their full range of motion. We have all sorts of grip training devices in our studio, including varied diameter barbells and dumbbells, pinch grip devices, and the like. ------------------ Courtenay Schurman, CSCS

Hi Snow, If the Farmer's Walk you're talking about is the one I know about, it is a good one to build up static forearm and grip endurance -- basically, grab a heavy dumbbell (or barbell, for even greater challenge!) and walk across the room with it. It's called "farmer's walk" I'm assuming because farmers had (have?) to carry mighty heavy pails full of slop, milk, etc. for pretty great distances. However, beware overtraining. Another good forearm strengthening technique that more closely carries over to ice and rock climbing is hangs on various holds -- crimpers on finger boards, pullup bars, dowels hanging vertically like ice tools would be. While any forearm strengtheners will help, you want to make it as specific to the moves you'll need in climbing whenever possible. Good topic, Snow! ------------------ Courtenay Schurman, CSCS

Hi Forrest_m-- Good question. I think your success after a substantial absence probably was due to a combination of things; 1) familiarity with the movements from years of having done it; 2) sheer determination, and 3) where there's a need, there will be fairly quick adaptation. You may also have the sort of body type that can just pick up and do what you wish -- my husband, a competitive power lifter, is that way -- he does no cardio whatsoever, but nonetheless has no trouble climbing mountains as strenuous as Rainier. Go figure--and for some odd reason (sorry, women out there!) in my experience it seems to be an easier thing for (MOST) men to just pick up and go, perhaps because they are inherently bigger and stronger to begin with. I'll see if I can find any more on this and post back. Thanks for the thought. ------------------ Courtenay Schurman, CSCS

Hey Snow, You know, they created a UserName and Password for me, and ... well, let's just say it doesn't work! So I'll just be "unregistered" for now...

Hey there Snow, you write: "biking is arguably the best way to train for climbing" -- I'd like to shed some insights on this statement. First off, I think there is a lot of value to biking, especially in the off-season, for developing balance in the legs. Biking will predominantly strengthen quads, which are important for the downhill portion of climbing. However, there's no substitute for getting out there with a pack on your back and walking or hiking over hills -- in all sorts of weather (as you pointed out: braving the elements is important.) Remember that the powerhouses for climbing UP hills are the glutes and hams, whereas quads get taxed on the descents -- hence I'd disagree that "biking is the BEST training for climbing." Having said that, I think the "best choice" for training is whatever you will actually do on a consistent basis. If you'd rather bike in the elements than drive an hour to get to some elevation, go for it. If you'd rather run trails without a pack, that has merit as well. But there's nothing better than preparing for climbing/hiking by ... climbing/hiking! Courtenay

Yes, all of these are good options. Main thing is to do what you most enjoy doing. I hate to admit but I'm a bit more of a "fair weather climber" and would opt to use an elliptical (in my very busy schedule -- it removes driving time!) if it's pouring down rain. But for those with tough skins and a 3-4 hour block of time (like on weekends) then by all means the best way to "train" is to most closely simulate the activity you're actually training for: getting outside on the trails with some weight on your back. Courtenay

Dear Lhotse, I'd recommend the eliptical fitness cross trainers as one of the most versatile pieces of cardiovascular machinery you can buy to prepare for outdoor activities including cross-country skiing, hiking, or running (low ramp), cycling (medium ramp), and climbing (elevation gain) with a high ramp. You can also pedal backwards to work different muscles in the lower body. Stairs will basically help you with ... stair climbing. You can get an even better workout than a stair climber if you go outside and walk up and down hills or stairs--less of a tendency to drape yourself all over the machine (called "cheating.") But yes, then you DO have to walk down as well -- great interval training. I'd suggest you look for a Precor 544 EFX refurbished model (now discontinued, so they are priced lower than the newer, high-fangled, bells and whistles Precor 546 EFX that you'll see in some gyms. In fact, for a great deal (I've done all the research; we're about to get one for our studio and a client as well) go to Worldwide Fitness.com and check out their deal: $1,899! Courtenay

Hi Ade, Good question, one many climbers face at some point in dealing with overuse injuries or strains of finger/elbow tendons. You are right to rest and ice the elbow. Another thing to do is take a serious look at your history of climbing frequency and difficulty. Remember that strenuous climbing is just like strenuous weight lifting, and it's optimal to take 2-3 days of rest between climbing until you have built up the techniques and stamina needed to climb more often. Check out the 4-3-2-1 periodization scheme offered on the Body Results web site (and also linked from Cascade Climbers.com) to see a sample. As you get closer to your climbing season (winter if you're a gym climber, summer if outdoors) you'll want to plan accordingly to peak for your major projects, rather than suffering injury. And make sure you recover between strength/climbing workouts. Finally, learn how to properly warmup, stretch and cool down, often neglected by those who end up getting injured. Hope this helps give you some ideas for what to improve in your own program. Happy climbing! Courtenay Schurman, CSCS