Lowell_Skoog

Tony, My copy of this book says "Copyright 1968 © by The Mountaineers". A little googling under "copyright expiration" suggests that this book is still protected by copyright until the year 2064. Did you get permission to reproduce it on your website?

Thanks for the referral! I posted a call for submissions over in the Author Request Forum but it's probably more visible here...

Dear Moderator: I notice that the 2006 calls for submissions for both the NWMJ and AAJ appear above this tread in the Author Request Forum, probably because they are sticky. Could you "unstick" those old threads and perhaps make this new thread sticky in their place? Thanks!

Northwest Mountaineering Journal, 2007 The mission of the Northwest Mountaineering Journal (NWMJ) is to be an edited, permanent, annual record of mountaineering in the Pacific Northwest. The journal documents the events, people, history and spirit of climbing and other mountain sports in this region. The journal is published free on the World-Wide Web by volunteers from the mountaineering community in collaboration with The Mountaineers. Past issues of the journal can be found at: http://www.nwmj.org The NWMJ editorial team is now accepting submissions for Issue 4, to be published in Summer 2007. The deadline for submissions is March 31, 2007. Submission guidelines can be found on-line at: http://www.mountaineers.org/nwmj/submissions.html The NWMJ covers all aspects of mountaineering in the Pacific Northwest, from high alpine climbing to lowland rock and ice climbing to ski mountaineering. New route reports, historical or research articles, profiles of interesting people, and land use and access issues are all appropriate topics for the journal. Also welcome are pieces that capture a timely or timeless aspect of Northwest mountaineering, regardless of whether they describe a pioneering climb or historic event. If you are uncertain about whether your article is appropriate for the journal, please send a query describing your idea to the editorial team. Send queries and submissions by e-mail to "submissions@nwmj.org". American Alpine Journal, 2007 In 2007, the Northwest Mountaineering Journal editors will again serve as regional correspondents for the American Alpine Journal (AAJ). NWMJ editors will contact persons who have reported new routes in Washington to obtain permission to publish their reports in both the NWMJ and the AAJ. The NWMJ accepts first-person accounts (100-400 words) of all new routes, first winter ascents, and first ski descents reported in the Northwest. The AAJ accepts first-person accounts (200-500 words) of climbs of Grade IV seriousness or higher. For shorter routes and current trends, the NWMJ editors will prepare a regional summary for the AAJ. Our goal is to be complete as possible, so please pass this message along to people who might not otherwise see it. Please submit reports for either the NWMJ or AAJ to the address shown below. Lowell Skoog NWMJ editorial team leader submissions@nwmj.org

Yeah. That's a great piece. I was tempted to include it as well, but decided that would be too much for this setting. I often think of Big Beaver Creek or Thunder Creek when reading the first chapter. Downey Creek definitely fits. I wish I could write like that.

Harvey Manning was a keen historian who appreciated "credit where credit is due." Reading the newspaper obits, it seems that he may be given more credit for preserving wilderness in Washington than he would claim for himself. Regarding the North Cascades, Manning always gave most of the credit to Patrick Goldsworthy, president of the North Cascades Conservation Council (NCCC) during the National Park campaign. Manning once joked that he was Goebbels in that war, while Goldsworthy was Hitler. Pat Goldsworthy is still around and still active in the NCCC.

Harvey Manning's best and most important book (in my opinion) is The Wild Cascades: Forgotten Parkland, published by the Sierra Club in 1965. The book was conceived by David Brower to promote establishment of a National Park in the North Cascades. Brower convinced Manning in March 1965 to try to produce a manuscript for June publication. Brower later wrote about Manning, "The Cascade River flows through the arteries on his right side and the Stehekin on his left, as any careful reader will readily perceive. So he made his deadline." In The Wild Cascades, Harvey Manning paints a word picture of the North Cascades that complements the photos and poetry contained in the book. He describes a "respectful entry" into the mountains, one that savors the main course of forest and river before sampling the dessert of meadows and peaks. His words support the idea that it was not enough to protect just the rocks and ice and alpine zone. To preserve the full North Cascades experience, the National Park must protect all of it, from low to high. Today, when route beta and ultralight gear make it easier to rush through the mountains, Manning reminds us of the value of going slowly. Although it stretches the boundaries of "fair use," I hope I may be forgiven for including here my favorite chapter from The Wild Cascades, in memory of Harvey Manning.

As I wrote before, I prefer to see this as an opportunity to create something better at the U.W. rock. I can't imagine drumming up serious opposition to the bridge because of the rock. But I can imagine having a voice in the planning to make accommodations for a new facility there. Seems like something that the U.W. climbing club should look into.

Superficially, it appears to be the same proposal. I'm not going to jump on either side of the issue at this point. There's a lot of NIMBY-ism in Seattle, some justified, some not. I just thought we should become aware of what's going on. I've paid no attention until now. Losing the rock would be sad, but we might not lose it, or maybe this could be an opportunity to create something better there.

A story in today's Seattle Times describes the "Pacific Interchange," a proposal to increase traffic capacity on the 520 bridge. http://seattletimes.nwsource.com/html/localnews/2003280662_520bridge29m.html I agree that 520 is a mess that needs fixing, but when I saw the sketch of the proposed design, my initial reaction was "ouch." The changes to the arboretum are not pretty, and it sure looks like the new highway might bulldoze the U.W. Rock. I suspect that eliminating the rock is not considered a loss to the highway planners or the U.W. but I'd be sorry to see it go.

Loren and I have been in touch and we have decided to replace the more heavily processed version of the photo with his original version. Thanks, Loren, for your understanding and patience. The NWMJ team will be revising our permissions process to make sure photo permissions don't "fall through the cracks" as happened in this case.

Loren, Please see your private messages for another copy of this post... One of the NWMJ editors directed me to your recent post in which you reported that your Johannesburg photo was used in the journal without your permission. If that is correct, I sincerely apologize. I will post a public apology and I will be happy to remove the photo from the journal if you wish. Editing the journal with semi-independent volunteers is a challenging task. Our goal is to do as professional a job as we can (including getting permission for everything we publish). Sometimes communication doesn't work as well as it should. This is not an excuse, just an attempt to say that we did not intend to run your photo without your permission. I would like to make things right with you. Best regards, Lowell Skoog lowell.skoog@alpenglow.org

The mission of the Northwest Mountaineering Journal is to be an edited, permanent, annual record of mountaineering in the Pacific Northwest. The journal documents the events, people, history and spirit of climbing and other mountain sports in this region. The journal is published by volunteers from the mountaineering community in collaboration with The Mountaineers. The 2006 issue of the journal is now available. See: http://www.nwmj.org This issue has feature articles about high alpine traverses, big wall climbing, mountain rescue, influential mountaineers, and more. It includes reports of new climbing routes, first winter ascents, and first ski descents from April 1, 2005 through March 31, 2006. It also contains highlights from Mount Rainier and North Cascade National Parks. I'd like to thank everyone who contributed stories, photos, and information for this issue, both for your contributions and for your patience as we assembled this issue over the past several months. I'd also like to thank the great team of volunteers who edited the journal and the folks at CascadeClimbers.com and the The Mountaineers who provided invaluable support. We hope you enjoy this issue and will begin looking forward to the next one. The 2006 Northwest Mountaineering Journal Team Ralph Bodenner Steve Firebaugh Paul Klenke Alex Krawarik Matt Perkins Chris Simmons Lowell Skoog Gary Yngve

Thanks Matt. If you see any tributes published on-line, could you post a link here? I imagine the Wenatchee paper might run something.

I think your disillusionment is not with the medium, but with the idea of professional ambassadors. You're more interested in what somebody on cc.com does because you can relate to them. We're generally not professional climbers here. There's a big difference between climbing as a hobby and climbing as a profession. At least in minds of other climbers.

Good post. Thanks.

A three-page memorial story about Paul Boving is in Off Belay #37 (Feb 1978) on p. 31-33. One of my favorite cartoons, perhaps because it was published a lot, was the one they used to introduce the Letters section. This scan is from Off Belay #35:

The Mountaineers have a 1949 film of the 2nd ascent of Lighthouse Tower by Fred Beckey, Pete Schoening and others. A description of the film can be found here: http://www.mountaineers.org/history/notes/movie/mtneers-1949-lighthouse.html

Yes! We are busily at work on the 2006 issue. Things have been delayed because all of our volunteer team members seem to be busier this year than in the past. We also had a delay due to The Mountaineers rehosting their website (which is where the NWMJ lives). So, we're later than we'd like to be. But we hope to have it out before summer is over, which is what we promised when we said the issue would be published in "Summer 2006". I hope you will find the 2006 NWMJ worth the wait.

If it is logical to "do nothing" to avoid something that might kill you, then it is equally logical to say that if climbing is worth doing, Russian roulette may be worth doing. To some people, it might be. I think the question in this tread is anything but inane. It provides an opportunity to consider what your values are.

Sounds like a not-very-accurate description that combines a little of both routes. My suggestion: Do them both. They're both great fun. The NW face is a pure rock climb with potential glacier approach problems. The NW face of the N ridge is a snow/ice climb followed by a nice alpine rock ridge. I've done both multiple times and will probably do them again.

If that is a logical response to this question then playing Russian roulette is equally logical, from a different point of view.

Good eye! I already fixed it. (One of the hazards of using an OCR scanner...)

I'm beginning to sort through my late brother's photo collection, which required me to first clean up my own mess to accommodate his stuff. I came across one of my favorite climbing essays, by Lito Tejada-Flores in the Fall 1990 issue of Summit magazine. On a whim, I looked up Lito on the web and sent him an e-mail asking for permission to reprint the essay on my website. He said yes! So here it is: "Alpinism As Humanism, Second Thoughts on Climbing Games" by Lito Tejada-Flores It's not exactly about the topic of this thread, but it's definitely related. Enjoy...

Some years ago I soloed Cascade Peak via the C-J couloir. One of my very few mountain solos. I found a good route around the narrows in the couloir (where you found it melted out) on the climber's left. Leave the couloir to the left well below where it narrows and climb the rocky hump on that side. This gets you above the narrows (a bad section for rock and ice fall) with just class 3 climbing. I also descended the route that way. I experienced some scary rockfall higher in the couloir, where there was some exposed ice. It can be a hazardous place.