Lowell_Skoog

The thing to keep in mind is that there are at least three classes of chutes people use to fly off mountains: 1. Paraglider (a soaring canopy optimized for high glide ratio) 2. Speed flying chute (a small, fast paraglider intended for ground skimming) 3. BASE parachute (a skydiving canopy deployed during free fall) The recent Mt Hood descent used a BASE parachute. Because of their poor glide ratios, you generally can't soar or fly cross-country on a speed flying chute or a BASE chute. I think it's accurate to say that the number of places you can use one of these canopies decreases as the glide ratio decreases. So there are relatively few places you can use a BASE parachute. I think even Willis Wall may be too low-angle to use one there. There are probably few, if any, other places on Mt Hood to use one, since you need a vertical wall to jump off. The first known paragliding descent (from the summit!) of Mt Hood was made way back in June 1988 by Michael Koerner of Everett. That flight and many others are documented in the following article: "On a Wing and a Prayer: The Mountaineering Roots of Northwest Paragliding"

A reminder: I'll be presenting my talk about skiing the Cascade Crest from Mt Baker to Mt Rainier in Portland on March 12. Here are the details: Wednesday - March 12, 2008 7:00 pm Free admission The Mazamas 527 SE 43rd Avenue Portland, OR More information about the show, as well as the full schedule of presentations, can be found here. The full story of my Cascade Crest ski journey can be found starting on this page. I hope to see you there!

It all depends on the weather. I think the reason most parties attempt it in early summer is because the weather is more settled then. If you can get a good weather period in March with reasonably consolidated snow (that's the other half of the problem), go for it! If you follow the links on this page, you'll find some historical references to Rainier ski traverses and orbits: http://www.alpenglow.org/ski-history/subjects/R-info.html#mt-rainier-traverses The Molenaar high level orbit (White River to Fryingpan Creek) has been skied in three days but I think most ski orbits have taken longer. The Molenaar route is about 30 miles with about 11,000 feet of climbing.

For folks in Wenatchee who may be wondering if my program is still on for tonight, don't worry, I'll be there! I drove around from Seattle through the Columbia Gorge last evening to avoid the pass closures. Here are the details: Skiing the Cascade Crest Saturday - February 9, 2008 7:00 pm Free admission Wenatchee Valley Museum & Cultural Center 127 South Mission Street Wenatchee, WA More details of the program can be found here: http://www.alpenglow.org/ski-history/project/presentations.html Hope to see you there!

After the post-show discussion last night, I decided to bring a door prize to tonight's show at Feathered Friends. Come support the NW Avalanche Center and win a box of ZOOM! Details: Thursday, February 7 Feathered Friends 119 Yale Avenue N. $5 admission (NWAC benefit) 7 pm happy hour 7:30 pm program

The NWMJ editorial team is actively collecting materials for our 2008 issue. I'm giving this thread a bump in case anyone out there has stories or tips that you think may be approriate for the upcoming issue. Contact the editorial team at submissions@nwmj.org. Our submission deadline for unsolicited materials is March 31, 2008.

I thought it was okay after our trip. Somewhat serious, but okay. It is a bit of a "head climb," one of those climbs where you need to be careful and have confidence climbing at the difficulty level with occasionally bad gear. The peak is dramatic from that side. Gordy first spotted the route on a drive up Slate Peak in the late 1970s.

Since this thread popped up, I've been thinking that some day I should write down the story of the 1980 KOMO-TV program filmed on Golden Horn. I finally got around to it. Enjoy: "Flights, Cameras, Action! on Golden Horn"

Northwest Mountaineering Journal, 2008 The mission of the Northwest Mountaineering Journal (NWMJ) is to be an edited, permanent, annual record of mountaineering in the Pacific Northwest. The journal documents the events, people, history and spirit of climbing and other mountain sports in this region. The journal is published free on the World-Wide Web by volunteers from the mountaineering community in collaboration with The Mountaineers. Past issues of the journal can be found at: http://www.nwmj.org The NWMJ editorial team is now accepting submissions for Issue 5, to be published in Summer 2008. The deadline for submissions is March 31, 2008. Submission guidelines can be found on-line at: http://www.mountaineers.org/nwmj/submissions.html The NWMJ covers all aspects of mountaineering in the Pacific Northwest, from high alpine climbing to lowland rock and ice climbing to ski mountaineering. New route reports, historical or research articles, profiles of interesting people, and land use and access issues are all appropriate topics for the journal. Also welcome are pieces that capture a timely or timeless aspect of Northwest mountaineering, regardless of whether they describe a pioneering climb or historic event. If you are uncertain about whether your article is appropriate for the journal, please send a query describing your idea to the editorial team. Send queries and submissions by e-mail to "submissions@nwmj.org". American Alpine Journal, 2008 In 2008, the Northwest Mountaineering Journal editors will again serve as regional correspondents for the American Alpine Journal (AAJ). NWMJ editors will contact persons who have reported new routes in Washington to obtain permission to publish their reports in both the NWMJ and the AAJ. The NWMJ accepts first-person accounts (100-400 words) of all new routes, first winter ascents, and first ski descents reported in the Northwest. The AAJ accepts first-person accounts (200-500 words) of climbs of Grade IV seriousness or higher. For shorter routes and current trends, the NWMJ editors will prepare a regional summary for the AAJ. Our goal is to be complete as possible, so please pass this message along to people who might not otherwise see it. Please submit reports for either the NWMJ or AAJ to the address shown below. Lowell Skoog NWMJ editorial team leader submissions@nwmj.org

This call for volunteers generated a pretty good response, so we're no longer actively seeking new recruits. We're happy to hear from potential contributors, though, so feel free to send me a note if you'd like to help out in some way on the NWMJ.

A brief notice in the Seattle Times yesterday said that Charles E. "Chuck" Kirschner of Union, WA died on Nov. 7, 2007 at age 87. Chuck Kirschner was a member of the Ptarmigan Climbing club. He made the first ascent of the west face of The Tooth with Ray Clough in 1938. That same year, Clough, Kirschner and two other Ptarmigans made the second ascent of Mt Degenhardt in the Southern Pickets. Kirschner was an avid skier, making many ski trips with Ray Clough and other Ptarmigan friends.

That's good to hear. I mentioned the Outside magazine article because I didn't know whether Beckey and Krakauer were on good terms. I thought Krakauer's Outside piece was excellent. That's why I saved it. He has a sharp pen and he used it well in that piece. But I remember hearing that some of Fred's other friends thought the piece was pretty hard on him. A good biography should try to capture the whole person, warts and all. I don't think any knowledgeable person would claim that Fred Beckey has no warts. It's possible that Fred has been reluctant to sit down for interviews (his reluctance is legendary) because he'd rather not help somebody who might paint an unflattering portrait. I don't know. I agree that a thorough biography would be a very worthwhile project.

Never mind. I found it. "Warning! Fred Beckey is (still) on the loose," by Jon Krakauer, Outside Magazine, July 1992, p. 48.

Jon Krakauer wrote an article about Fred Beckey that appeared in Outside magazine 15-20 years ago. The article described a winter climb by Beckey, Krakauer and Mark Bebie of Sahale Peak. I had it in my files for a long time but I can't find it now. As I remember, many of Fred's younger admirers thought Krakauer's article was uncomplimentary. I don't know what Fred thought about it. A couple of the most memorable passages describe scamming food from the sample counter at the supermarket in Sedro Wooley after the trip. Krakauer described Beckey's appearance and wrote (quoting from memory): "The woman behind counter could be forgiven for mistaking America's finest alpinist for a wino." This was also the article in which Fred was quoted, after trying some of the sausage samples: "Ummm ummm, not bad, not bad. Even if it does look like horse dick." I have always assumed that this is where the running joke about "H.C." on CascadeClimbers.com came from. If anybody out there knows which Outside magazine issue this story was in, please let me know. I'd like to find it again.

I'm gonna bump this above my last post in a different thread in this forum, so it's a bit more visible.

Moderator: This topic seems to be sticky. Can we un-stick it, since it's obsolete?

Moderator: This topic seems to be sticky. Can we un-stick it, since it's obsolete?

Help Wanted: Northwest Mountaineering Journal, 2008 The Northwest Mountaineering Journal is looking for volunteer editors to help us assemble our 2008 issue. The journal is published by a team of volunteers in collaboration with The Mountaineers. The journal has been produced annually each summer since 2004. The American Alpine Club E-News has called it "One of the most beautiful electronic publications on the Internet." Past issues of the journal can be found here: http://www.nwmj.org Editorial volunteers can contribute to the journal in a variety of ways. The team is flexible in how each volunteer contributes. Successful volunteers will have the following qualifications: * Mountaineering background with experience in Northwest mountains. * Good English language skills and attention to detail. * Ability to interact well with contributors, especially by e-mail. * Comfort working with computers and the Worldwide Web (or eagerness to learn). * Willingness to contribute ideas and a few hours of time each month as part of a volunteer team. Most of the work of assembling the journal occurs between the March 31 submission deadline and publication in summer. The Northwest Mountaineering Journal is a unique resource for the mountaineering community that contains material not found anywhere else. If you are interested in helping prepare the next journal, send me a private message through this bulletin board or send an e-mail to: submissions@nwmj.org Lowell Skoog NWMJ editorial team leader

Northwest Mountaineering Journal, 2007 The mission of the Northwest Mountaineering Journal is to be an edited, permanent, annual record of mountaineering in the Pacific Northwest. The journal documents the events, people, history and spirit of climbing and other mountain sports in this region. The journal is published by volunteers from the mountaineering community in collaboration with The Mountaineers. The 2007 issue of the journal is now available. See: http://www.nwmj.org This issue has feature articles about alpine rock climbing, high traverses, mountain rescue, glaciers and climate, influential mountaineers, and more. It includes reports of new climbing routes, first winter ascents, and first ski descents from April 1, 2006 through March 31, 2007. It also contains highlights from Mount Rainier and North Cascades National Parks. I'd like to thank everyone who contributed stories, photos, and information for this issue, both for your contributions and for your patience as we assembled this issue over the past several months. I'd also like to thank the great team of volunteers who edited the journal and the folks at CascadeClimbers.com and the The Mountaineers who provided invaluable support. We hope you enjoy this issue and will begin looking forward to the next one. The 2007 Northwest Mountaineering Journal Team Ralph Bodenner Steve Firebaugh Alex Krawarik Matt Perkins Chris Simmons Lowell Skoog Alasdair Turner Curt Veldhuisen Gary Yngve

Don't forget mountaineering legend Wolf Bauer, the little guy on the left in your picture! If you were to ask Jim or Lou Whittaker, they'd probably say he's the biggest legend of them all: http://www.mountaineers.org/NWMJ/05/051_Bauer1.html

Nice job, Freeman and Tom! CFCC indeed!

We are actively working on the journal and hoping to have it out before the equinox (9/21) so we can call it the Summer 2007 issue without a wink and a nudge. If you happen to find pages, they are a work in progress until we announce the journal.

We're working on the 2007 issue right now. It should be out before summer is over (i.e. September 21) but I doubt it will be out before Labor Day.

This notice was in the Seattle Times today. Ralph Clough was one of the original members of the Ptarmigan Climbing Club. Looking through Beckey's green guide, I noticed that Fred lists Ralph as a member of the 1938 Ptarmigan Traverse party. That's incorrect. His brother Ray was on that trip. Ray Clough lives in Bend Oregon. http://www.legacy.com/WashingtonPost/DeathNotices.asp?Page=LifeStory&PersonId=92647128 RALPH N. CLOUGH (Age 90) RALPH N. CLOUGH, retired Foreign Service Officer and author of books on Asian affairs, died of myelodysplasia at Sunrise Assisted Living center in Arlington, VA on August 10, 2007. He was a resident of Arlington for 40 years. Mr. Clough was born and grew up in Seattle, Washington, where he developed his lifelong passion for the outdoors. In the late 1930's Mr. Clough became involved with mountain climbing and made many ascents (some firsts) throughout the Cascade Mountains. Mr. Clough was a lifelong birdwatcher, first with his brother, Ray Clough and more recently with his grandchildren. He graduated Phi Beta Kappa from the University of Washington in 1939 and completed an M.A. in international relations at the Fletcher School of Tufts University in 1940. After joining the State Department in 1941, Mr. Clough spent 25 years in the Foreign Service with postings in mainland China, Hong Kong, Switzerland, Britain and Taiwan. He rose to Deputy Chief of Mission in Taipei, Taiwan, before returning to Washington, D.C., and rounding out his career as a member of the Policy Planning Council of the State Department, retiring in 1969. His second career began with an appointment at the Brookings Institution, continued at the Woodrow Wilson Center for Scholars, and culminated with a position at the School of Advanced International Studies (SAIS) of Johns Hopkins in Washington, D.C. During a 30-year span, Mr. Clough wrote and edited numerous books on the Far East and on American foreign policy toward Asia. Notable titles included East Asia and U.S. Security (1975), Deterrence and Defense in Korea (1976), Island China (1978), Reaching Across the Taiwan Strait (1993), and Cooperation or Conflict in the Taiwan Strait (1999). He retired from SAIS in 2003 after many years teaching the Taiwan seminar and organizing the lecture series China Forum. His first wife, Mary Lou Sander Clough, died in 1950. He is survived by his wife of 54 years, Awana Stiles Clough; two sons, Frederick Clough and Marshall Clough, of Santa Barbara, California and Greeley, Colorado, respectively; two daughters, Laurie Clough Schuda of Arlington and Drusilla Clough Hufford, of McLean; six grandchildren, Gregory, Carrie, Christopher, Alexander, Stephanie, and Susannah; and numerous nieces and nephews. A memorial service will be held at the Fort Myer Memorial Chapel, Arlington, VA at 3 p.m. on Thursday, August 23, 2007.

Erik, You might try browsing old Summit magazines down at the Mountaineers Library. I found a couple of articles written by your dad which I noted in my ski history project: http://www.alpenglow.org/ski-history/notes/period/summit/summit-1950-59.html#summit-1959-dec-p20 http://www.alpenglow.org/ski-history/notes/period/summit/summit-1960-69.html#summit-1961-apr-p16 He may have published more writing during that period that I didn't make a note of. I really don't recall. There is also the photo that your dad took of Fred Beckey on skis below Burgundy Spire during a winter ski approach to Silver Star. It's on p. 203 of Beckey's "Challenge of the North Cascades" at the beginning of the chapter, "Dolomites in America." Possibly Mike Swayne could put you in touch with people who would have first-person stories. But I believe Mike's out of town right now. Me, I'm just a bookworm.