DPS
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Posts posted by DPS
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How is Adams Glacier in late season? I've only looked at it through binocs in Sept.... obviously the N Ridge descent could be a pain in the butt, but if a spouse was willing to drop a car or run shuttle to the south side trailhead... ???
I've only done it relatively early, early July, as soon as the the trailhead opened. I think route finding would be very difficult and rock fall off the NW Ridge might be a problem. Just a guess though.
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No avy danger, high rockfall danger, steep, possibly icy, sketchy, huge bergschrunds, zero chance of getting anything resembling a good ski turn above the palmer lift, no permits needed, sign the register. From late July through December this climb is what we lovingly refer to as a fu$%ing mess and it should be avoided at all costs. Go hike Adams, South sister, anything else. Hood in later summer is not a good plan. Try again in May. And you always do a night mission on hood unless it's the dead of winter and the conditions permit a daytime assault.
+1
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Long way to hike for a look see. Thanks for the conditions update.
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Getting onto the North Ridge in late season:
Traverse east onto the Roosevelt Glacier from the Harrison Camp (Mirkwood). Cross the lower Coleman around 5000' (the flats), onto the medial moraine near the righthand waterfall, go up onto the Roosevelt. Cruise up to the route.
The Coleman HW has significantly more objective danger than the North Ridge.
Good suggestion. Did NR using this apporach one year, but it was so long ago I forgot about it.
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If taking the trouble to navigate the crevasses to the N ridge, might as well just go for the Coleman Headwall.
That is another good, albiet harder, option. I've done both, and of course both routes change dramatically from year to year. Without knowing the OPs ice/alpine experience Coleman Headwall over Labor Day WE might be a lot to bite off.
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I think they'll both be pretty ugly then, and anything steep will provide plenty of rockfall. I'd pick a different sort of objective if it were me, even if it was just hiking and picking huckleberries it would be better than those two volcanoes.
I agree, also with Kurt Hicks, alough the approach to NR Baker may be broken up. One approach is to camp below the Black Buttes (pretty short approach to this point) and scout the traverse to the North Ridge and add wands as needed. Get an early start and folllow your previously established route (GPS works too). IF the approach is too broken up you can do the Coleman Demming route.
My personal recommendation would be Fisher Chimneys on Mt Shuksan. Should be in good shape, although icy, bring a few screws and a sceond tool, just in case, as well as a small rock rack and a v-thread kit. Nice mix of moderate/easy rock and ice climbing on the most photogenic face of this truly classic Cascade peak.
I'll admit it got me thinking the late-season hazards are exaggerated.Are Adams and Hood that much worse than Rainier?
Nobody here is exagerating the late season hazards. Rainier is a different beast than anything else in the Cascades. You are getting good advice. The only route I would consider doing that time of year on Adams or Hood is SS Adams which would be a scree hike.
If you haven't been to the North Cascades, you should treat yourself and go. Several good suggestions in additions to mine already posted.
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I use a combination of harness and pack such that one or the other has a simple webbing waist loop and no gear loops. Lately this is a Montbel Balance Light 40 (closer in volume to my 45 liter BD Ice and Shadow packs) and a Petzl Adjama harness.
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Nice work. Regarding the topo; the Windham route was done by Leland Windham rather than 'Windom'. Leland told me he was calling the route 'Nothing', not sure if he changed the name, but he was calling it 'Nothing' for several years. I was also told the free version (a short crux) was 13- by various parties including Dave Moroloes.
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I have a set of Aliens, blue, green, yellow, and red, purchased pre 2001. If I ever climb again, do I need to worry about them failinng or was this an issue particular to the newer Aliens?
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Quality. Piss poor advice. Snarky....and Rob, you're welcome to go fuck yourself with your ice tools. Sorry if I missed your little joke. I guess I don't spend every waking moment trolling internet forums so I can insult people I don't know to make myself feel better.
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I climbed WR Forbidden with Curt. He seemed very wise then and that was like 17 years ago.
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I've climbed both, haven't skiied either but I think Emmons would be a much esier ski, if the crevasses don't eat you.
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No, I ignore 90% of your sanctimonious bullshit. I was just subtlety trying to chest beat.
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Based on my previous experiences, your time up and down would have seemed impossibly fast and I'd have said you were lying, crazy, dangerous or some combination of the three.
Skis are much faster, both up and down than booting it. I went from Paradise to Muir in 90 minues on skis. My fastest outing on boots was 2 hours. Just saying.
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Kurt,
You are welcome. I think it is important you mentioned the legalese. Guides have to have liability insurance, land use and/or concessionaires permits. Although I believe the system is changing, this now usually means going through one of the guide outfits. Of these outfits some are more amenable to custom itineraries and 1:1 guiding than others.
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All good suggestions. Hopefully you can align your goals and itinerary with one of the aforementioned guides. I don't think you can go wrong with any of them.
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It felt 5.9 to me. No harder than Ski tracks,
I agree that it is no harder than 5.9, but less secure than Ski Tracks with its sloping hortizontal crack and big exposure.
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Thanks 111 and DPS. I like both options. I am considering the 8 day alpine ascents rainier training/summit course for next year. Seems that's the best plan and if I have extra time and money mt Adams looks like a great option to add in.
Thanks again for input. Siggy.
I think the training program is a great idea. Wouldn't recommend Adams either after Rainier, unless it is on the same trip. Lots more options for rock training closer to you. Senecca Rocks, Red River Gorge, North Carolina. I'm sure you can find guides that opporate in all of those areas.
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You want either Chris Simmons; http://climbskirun.blogspot.com/. Fully certified IFMGA guide, has guided on every continent except Africa. Great guy, great guide, huge experience.
Also Kurt Hicks: http://kurthicks.com/about/. AMGA certified in several disciplines. Both are based in Seattle and climbing partners of mine and great people and great guides. I can unequivocally recommend either one. Neither will be cheap.
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Sig,
I would suggest learning new skills. Maybe a glacier course on Mt Baker or a trad climbing course somewhere in the South East.
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I've always said "coowahr", based on one year of college French.
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Loren, Very nice! Oh, and what is "old"?
It is a relative term. Reading Blakes TR for Valkyrie is cool and I view him as a 'young' guy. I meant old relative to guys Blake's age. I recall running repeats on Mt Si. There was a H.S. basketball team walking up. One of the players asked "Sir, do you mind telling me how old you are?" "40" I replied. He shook his head as he couldn't imagine how someone my age could run up Mt Si.
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I can't remember whether Gary ever wrote up his climb.
Maybe Gary was blindfolded when he climbed it
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Nice job Loren. Way to hoist the flag for us old guys.
Enchantment Loop
in Climber's Board
Posted
Kevin,
First off, not an exact answer to your questions but here is what I've done. I've run the Enchment Lakes Loop RT in 6 hours and change. We started from Stuart Lake TH and had left a second car at Snow Lakes for the shutle. Doing the full loop is very worthwhile and you have a few options. If you are starting at Snow Lakes (more elevation gain) you could stash a mt bike at Stuart Lake TH before hand and ride downhill back to your car. Aslo, it should be super simple to hitch a ride from Stuart Lake TH back to Snow Lakes. Everone leaving from Stuart Lake TH will be driving past Snow Lakes anyway. If you start early you be able to catch a few pople leaving, the loop doesn't take that long if you go light. Have fun.
Bonus style points. We did Prusik car to car in a day from Snow Lakes once. A fellow I know a bit (flys for TAT, guides for AAI) left the trail head at the same time running up Icicle Creek road, soloed Backbone Ridge (or was it Serpentine Arete?) on Dragontail, soloed WR Prusik, soloed Outer Space and passed us on our way out just before the Snow Creek TH. That's some mountain running!