DPS

Mountain Man: >I think the FC route is one that I'd like to repeat (and I rarely climb peaks twice). I agree with whoever said the FC is a better route than the N. Face. It was me who said that. That's why I asked.

Mountain Man: What did you think of the FC? [ 08-13-2002, 08:12 AM: Message edited by: danielpatricksmith ]

Not as slowly as the traffic you will encounter on the way.

The tests that I saw suggested a traditional gate is more suseptible to total failure when cross loaded, whereas the wire gate merely deforms.

I am interested, please email me. daniel.smith@metrokc.gov

I would suggest a different route. You would not like the approach through the forest, too much vegetation.

While waiting for a flight out from KIA I started chatting with two overweight fellows wearing jeans, flannel shirts and brand new leather boots. I figured they were on the glacier landing sight seeing tour but learned they were there to climb. Their objective? West Ridge of Mt Hunter as it required no permit and they decided to take the trip only two days ago. They figured 2 days round trip for the climb because that guy over there (jerking thumb towards ultra Alaskan hardman with ascents of Cassin Ridge, Infinite Spur etc) took 3 and they would be able to do it faster with a boot track in.

I think we need Agent Orange to help out.

Can someone explain to me why the approach would be harder now at this time than it was at this time last year? I don't get it.

North Face of Mt Baring, Vanishing Point. East Face of South Early Winter Spire, Nothing. Route between Lib Crack and Thin Red Line on Lib Bell. Goat Wall, Methow Inspiration. Condor Buttress, Condormorphine Addiction. [ 08-06-2002, 07:39 AM: Message edited by: danielpatricksmith ]

Redmonk, I think the the Fisher Chimneys is a better route because it is more varied than the NF. The snow on the NF was less steep and easier than the ice on Winnie's slide and then gainig the upper Curtis when I did it one September. Have you done F.C? The reason I ask is that most people who do F.C speak favorably about it.

I second Jens assertion that Fisher Chimneys is a better route than the NF.

Red Monk, sverdina and Mountain Man: Juan, Colin and myself did NF Shuksan in late July last year, there was no snow on the approach. I had meant 30 minutes of bushwhacking, with another 2 1/2 hours of open forrest and ridgeline hiking. The approach was really no big deal. Took a bit more than 3 hours by my recollection. No nettles, devils club or anything truly nasty. Perhaps we lucked out and found the best possible route. I am sorry you had such a bad experience, but I am telling the truth. My feeling is that a lot folks just don't know from nasty approaches. [ 08-01-2002, 08:07 AM: Message edited by: danielpatricksmith ]

After doing the approach to the NF Shuksan, I could not figure out what the fuss was about. It was no big deal, 30 minutes of harmless bush whacking and 2 1/2 hours of hiking through open forest and a ridgeline.

Hitching back from Artist's Point works well.

Can't respond to the trail conditions, but some snow is likely to linger. The climbing route is a bit dirty and indistinct. We brought maybe 6 nuts and 4 cams and 6 over the shoulder slings and climbed in our running shoes. Seemed like enough gear. The views make the long approach and mediocre climbing worthwhile.

I 'skied' for four years using the Scarpa Invernos and AT gear. For approaches it works well. I recently switched to real AT boots and it makes a huge difference. I have heard a number of folks rave about using knee cords with mountaineering boots.

I need to hire a tile setter for a bathroom floor that needs some tile. I will have put down concrete board. The room is about 75 square feet, I want to use 12" tiles. Should be an easy job in Tacoma. Any climbers/tile setters looking for a short job? One climber helping another. Email me; daniel.smith@metrokc.gov.

There was no skiing from the summit on this trip, only a small, lonley snow patch in the central gully remained. Still, how can one complain about skiing in late July?

I skied the Sulphide Glacier on Shuksan on Sunday July 21. There is a surprising amount of snow left, but I am not sure if it is really worth it to carry skis as the decent is really not that great. A lot of skis on, ski off kind of terrain. Overall it was a fine day in the hills, the views from that side are amazing. Met a number of large groups wearing shiny plastic boots and carrying huge packs. If I were to do the route again I would go the other way and wear running shoes and a fanny pack and do it as a trail run. [ 07-23-2002, 08:32 AM: Message edited by: danielpatricksmith ]

There are a couple of options if you do not want to camp in the hut. The Boulder camp, a few hundred feet below the hut has tent spaces, streams for water and an outhouse with outstanding views. This area is buggy. The other option is Applebee (sp?) camp, a 45 minute hike above the hut. This puts you within a short hike of many of the spires including Bugaboo, Snowpatch, McTech Arete (forget the name of the spire) and is less buggy. Either option is $5.00 Canadian a night per person.

Hugh Banner brass offset nuts cover the same sizes as RPs, but have a shape that makes placements far more secure and versatile than the RPs. They aren't cheap though, like 13.50 a pop. The smallest size Black Diamond Stoppers fit medium RP placements, but their shape does not seem to place well.

I am saying my hair is blond, not grey, has never been grey and will never be grey. It will all have fallen out far before then.

Dan Larson, First off, who do you think you are to say the route is out of condition? This is the sort of attitude that makes me seethe. 'Well the NPS said it was out of shape so it must be so.' Reverse sandbagging is what I call it and what it is is lesser climbers making excuses for their shortcomings. Second of all, I have no grey hair.

>I soloed to Camp Muir last weekend and overheard >(from a very well equipped climber, he had >several camalots) that Liberty Ridge is out for >the season. If you inisist on climbing >the "death route" this season, take a GPS and 10 >essentials, you will be ok. Don't forget your >permit and blue bag. Makes me almost want to climb it again.