philfort

What the hell is wrong with someone wanting help carrying their gear up to Camp Muir? You don't know what they're going to be doing up there - you don't know how old they are - you don't know their situation at all, so don't judge! Besides, climbers use porters in the Himalaya, and climbers get planes to haul their gear in Alaska. Is that also "pathetic"? What's pathetic is climbers with elitist attitudes like this. Phil

We tried to climb it via the std route 2 years ago, but turned around due to avalanche danger. I'd expect you'd find similarly nasty conditions if you're planning on doing it tomorrow (Freezing level is supposed to be 9000ft I think) The pictures from our trip report should help you identify the right place to head up to highpass (Even though we never got there): http://praxis.etla.net/~philfort/whitehorse/whitehorse.html Basically, from LT pass, you travel along the ridge until it steepens considerably, then you descend several hundred feet to near a lake (to get around a rock buttress), then do a gradual ascending traverse. You might head up to High Pass too early, but you won't head up too late - so keep going until it's really obvious where High Pass is.

Wow, sounds great! Wish I wasn't working today....

It's just a recap of who won some ski mountaineering, snowshoeing, and ice climbing competitions.

just to add a note: I think the butane stoves will work better at high altitudes, because of the greater pressure differential between the cannister and the air (I think?). However, that's probably more than offset by the colder temperatues typical at high altitudes.

I have a primus alpine micro - it's great, but I wouldn't rely on it if you're expecting cold weather, or need to boil lots of water. They are hard to start, and don't put out much power when it gets cold. And the longer you have it on, the weaker the output is, because the cannister keeps getting colder and colder. We were able to start one on top of Rainier last summer (temp was probably 20-25F), but it took some coaxing. I guess you could sleep with the cannister. When it's not cold though, they are great! I use it mainly for 'going light', when I know the weather won't be too much below freezing. If I go somewhere alone for a day trip, I usually take it with me - with a small titanium kettle, and one of those snowpeak half cannisters, you have a cooking setup that weighs almost nothing, and takes almost no space. The piezo starter is a nice touch - don't need to fumble for matches or a lighter. [This message has been edited by philfort (edited 03-19-2001).]

You can drive well past that on highway 20 in the winter. However, I'm sure the dirt road to the Thorton Lakes trailhead isn't plowed - although this year it's probably driveable quite aways by now. It's sort of south-facing too I think. Never been there in the winter, but it would seem reasonable - you could avoid the very indirect trail, and just head straight to the Thornton Lakes basin (that's what Beckey suggests for early season attempts) That picture of the NE ridge in winter conditions, in Selected Climbs II, looks terrifying! Having done the approach in summer, it seems like it would be pretty straightforward in winter too. Does anyone know if the NE ridge has seen a winter ascent?

By the way Dennis, The North Ridge (of Baker, I assume you meant) was skied last summer (as documented in the lastest issue of Backcountry magazine, with many pictures), so "all" you'll get is a first snowboard descent :-) Unless of course you actually snowboard down the ice cliff, in which case then you can claim a "first complete descent", as the "first descentionists" rappeled the ice cliff. Also, you said: "According to the tacoma news tribune no one has even set foot on rainiers north face in ten years". What about the well-publicized incident of the guy who died skiing Liberty Ridge 2 years ago? Since when is the Tacome News Tribune the authority on first descents? As for Shuksan's North Face, I would be very suprised if it hadn't seen a snowboard descent, as I get the feeling it is skied quite regularly (when we were there, there was a solo skier attempting it - I think he also mentioned he had skied Liberty Ridge). I do however, disagree with Mike's statement "I would say getting any first, second or even third descent or ascent in the Cascades is a pipe dream boyz". Phil

The easiest-to-access serious glaciers are probably the Coleman on Mt Baker, and the Nisqually on Rainier. It's about a 2.5 hour drive to the Heliotrope Ridge trailhead at Baker(currently snowed in, but it should melt out early this year - trailhead elevation is 3600ft). Then it's about an hour hike to the glacier. The Nisqually can be reached hiking up the paved trail out of Paradise (also ~2.5hr drive), and hiking down from Alta Vista (or glacier vista?) - maybe - 45 minutes from paradise? Phil Did you find this response helpful? (yes) (no)

There was a post about "Snoqualime mtn/ NW face" on here 2 weeks ago, on the Message Board. It contained some current-at-the-time information on NY gully.

Looking at some slides of the NW side of Rainier recently, I discovered a rock ridge with a large hole in it, halfway up Mowich Face. Has anyone seen this curious formation (an arch, I suppose) up close? Is it really as it appears? (the hole is just barely visible on page 108 of the Beckey guide, under the 'a' in Mowich Face)

They're supposed to start clearing it next Monday, then it will probably take a few weeks from then.

Um, I drove by it last weekend. The standard route looked snowcovered, and so did adjacent gullies more on the north face. I think I took a picture... I try to remember to scan it today.

I don't mind the ad, as long as it's for a good/interesting event, like Miles Smart's slideshow. Having to close the popup, is just too difficult for me. But having it, temporarily, in the corner of the main page would be fine.

Agreed - it's really annoying.

The traverse was pretty straightforward - over the lower hump of the ski area, through open areas and old growth forest, until you reach the upper basin (descending very slightly). This would be horrible later in the year, because the traverse across the upper basin would probably be extremely brushy. There are a few little canyons to cross on the traverse, but they were mostly still snow-filled for us. Traverse is on fairly gentle slopes, but there are very steep slopes above for much of the way.

Nice site, benman... Does anyone know if the Lava glacier headwall on Adams has been skied?

CNN reports: "Mudslides hit Mount St. Helens in southwestern Washington, but no injuries or major damage was reported." Phil

Wow.... I had semi-fantasized about doing a winter climb of the N face, followed by a ski descent of the White Salmon - guess your report will put a stop to that fantasy! Which side of the valley did you do the approach on? We did the approach in early June last year, and it only took 3 hours from the road to the base of the N face - we thought the rigors of the approach were grossly exaggerated! Even a group who followed the approached described in Becky only took 4 hours. (not dissing your 8 hour time - obviously it's a lot slower in deep snow than on spring hardpack) We followed the east side of shuksan arm from the ski area, then crossed the White Salmon valley above the brush. Although the traverse we did is somewhat threatened by avalanches (almost got nailed by one on the return), there was hardly any bushwhacking. Did you guys have skis/snowshoes? Did the White Salmon glacier look very crevassed? And, lastly, was the snow powdery, good for skiing? (e.g. in the open, above treeline, on the N facing slopes). (still thinking about skiing the white salmon) Phil

Hmm, I guess I don't feel so bad about publicizing the Enigma Gully/Slot couloir as a ski descent, if it's going to be included in a book! With that, and Selected Climbs II, it looks like the "undiscovered days" of the NW side of Snoqualmie Mtn are coming to an end. Oh well - I'm sure there are many more "NW side of Snoqualmie Mtn"s to discover. We were quite certain it's been skied before - it's a natural ski route, and not that difficult or dangerous in the nice conditions we had - we're certainly not "extreme" skiers or anything, or even very good at all :-). The only reason it probably doesn't see much traffic is because it is so hidden. You can't really see the gully from _anywhere_, even from the bottom most of it is hidden. When is Martin's book due out? It'll be nice to have a skiing guidebook for the Cascades that doesn't include things like Mt Margaret or Annabilis. Colin, congrats on New York gully. Here is a picture of your footprints from above: Phil

Hmm, Greg, that's not exactly the story I got from Dave. He said he was about to lead it - but then you said you were comfortable solo'ing it, and headed up. Well, then Dave just _had_ to too, to prove he was equal man or something.... :-) Phil

When we climbed back over the ridge, the NY gully guy's stashed equipment (firn skis) were still there - looks like they hadn't come down yet, but it was only 3pm. Whoever it was, I hope they post something to cc. The snow in the NW face gully is pretty tracked up now, I wouldn't bother skiing it until more snow comes :-) Phil

In response to why I don't take my MSR bladder into the mountains: because it isn't convenient to drink from. Much easier to have a nalgene in a holder on my waist belt. Also, the plastic cap has deformed a bit over the years, and it leaks a little now, and I've been too lazy to get another cap.

For any kind of mountaineering, water bladders suck IMO: 1) The hose freezes. 2) They leak Water Bladder Proponents will say 1) "Not if you blow the water in the tube back in the bladder." I've never seen anyone keep this up successfully on a cold day. Instead, the tubes always freeze, they can't drink their water, and now they must drink yours. Happened on Lib Ridge last summer, right Marcus? :-) 2) "They don't leak" Well, I've never seen one crack or break, but the filling hole or the "sucking valve" always seems to pop off. A popped off sucking valve (not mine) cost me the North Ridge of Baker (am I bitter?? nah!!). In fact, I seem to recall dbb having a leaking water bladder just a few weeks ago - was that on Mt Kent or something? I think those things are great for around camp (like, the big MSR water bladders), or for mountain biking say, when it doesn't get hit against anything and you don't want to carry any clunky nalgenes. In fact, I own an MSR bladder, and a camelbak. But I don't take them into the mountains. Instead, I generally take a couple of lexan Nalgene's, and keep one in an insulated 'cozy' strapped to my waist belt for quick access. ok, enough ranting Phil [This message has been edited by philfort (edited 02-16-2001).]

A note on range: they can work far beyond the 2 mile range if you're line of sight. I recall being near the summit of North Twin Sister 2 years ago, and having trouble finding a free channel (out of 14) to talk to my partners, because of all the conversations going on in Bellingham (presumably).