dalius

Josh, you must a young feller. When I was much younger, blah blah blah blah...As I get longer in the tooth...blah blah blah...Mark these words... blah blah blah blah... Freakin' lazy geriatrics! Sheesh! I betcha even Beckey can get his ass out of bed to take a leak!

I climbed the Direct E. Buttress of S. Early Winter Spire yesterday. The route is in excellent shape. No snow on the route and you can approach from the hairpin on snow all the way to the start of the route. (head straight up to right side of buttress, don't go left). What a stellar route. The only downside to the route is aiding the 5.11 sections (I can't lead that high and I find bolt ladders boring), but other than that this route rocks. Excellent free climbing on excellent rock. ***** East face of Liberty Bell is probably totally dry as well. As far as snow in the area goes, it's warm and cornices were crashing and causing little avalanches everywhere. The snow really is mush around there. And as far as camping goes, the first campground you hit driving towards mazama is mostly empty and totally free. Gotta love that. Anyone know how long that lasts?

Anybody been on South Early Winter Spire, Direct East Butttress yet this year? I'm wondering if it is dry and snow free yet. Also wondering about the NW Corner North Early Winter Spire, but somehow I doubt that is in yet. Anyone know?

20 meters? A 60 feet deep slab? Sounds uber-deadly!

Dude, everybody knows that the only quality trip reports on this site are those of the __-th ascent of Triple Couloirs! Every freakin' monday there are several more TRs and pics of the same damn route, over and over again. Can't wait to sees 10 more this Monday! Dude! I climbed TC! I'm so fucking bad ass! Look at me! Look at me!

Zero Cam is specially designed to flex all the way to the head. That placement would hold. Any other microcam placed that way would RIP! Whatever, I don't believe it. Somebody please explain to me how a placement like that could possibly hold. Has anyone ever actually placed one like this or is this just all book theory for everyone 'cuz nobody's actually gone out and tried it?

What?! How could it pick Bud? Everyone knows that Old Style is the finest beer around!

What's with all this Dirt talk? It looks like pretty stellar granite from the ground!

You are such nerds.

And you would then be hardcore and all cc.com'rs would lick your toes.

Ah, the infamous and ellusive bridge creek wall. That thing looks stellar. I've heard that beta on this wall is hard or impossible to find, leaving any parties interested in 'scending it with an exploratory adventure climb. This true?

I had a similar thing happen last weekend. I forget whether it was a nut or a biner, but it was freakin' cold out and the damn thing instantly stuck to my toungue. I pulled it out fast enough to keep from drawing blood, but I did burn my tongue. Freakin' aluminum conducts heat away quickly.

OK, call me crazy, but it looks to me that this placement would just rip right the hell out. It's off of WildCountry's site. Am I wrong?

Anybody feel like taking a whipper on one of these? (Wild Country Zero Cam Z1 - smallest cam ever)

I thought it said he was 70?

Go, but just realize you'll be using your ice axes almost all the time!

The problem is, that NOTHING IS GOING TO BE WORKED OUT! The scoop is that BC Rail doesn't give a rat's ass what climbers think and basically laughed at the Access Fund and whoever else was involved trying to keep it open. Supposedly there was absolutely ZERO discussion on BC Rail's part. They made their decision long before they were shown any reports. They do not care. Climb there at your own risk. I guess, techincally, they have a right of way of 7m or so each way from the centerline of the track. That corridor touches the rock at points. People volunteered to put up a fence to keep people out of this corridor, funded by climbers and all, but they do not want it end of discussion.

Fucking sucks. That crag is stellar. Nothing like cragging on the Lower Malamute at sunset. I hear they're not kidding about the ticket thing either. BC rail is some sort of federal or provincial establishment, so tickets are not to be taken lightly. I can just see getting denied entry to Canada due to an unpaid Lower Malamute climbing ticket. Fuckers. I piss on them from a considerable height.

I dunno, the dynafits are supposed to be able the hairiest descents just as well or better than any other rando binding. Or so is the word on the street. Just because they're small doesn't mean they're fragile. It seems like those things have been put to the test for many years and have proven bomber as hell.

He probably asks because it is still freakin' winter up on the high mountains. A very late lingering winter.

Damn, sounds like there was a convention up there this weekend! Mt. Stuart definitely has some solitude if you're looking to get away from the crowds. We saw one other party all weekend, and they were on a different route.

GU, as in the pasty pre-digested energy crap? Missed the joke. Haha.

Alpinfox, sounds like you had a similar experience. We got up there, expecting to find 5.6 blocky rock with some snow on it, but ended up finding a bunch of crap ice with a little rock hidden under it. 5.6 rock my ass. You could barely even see any rock! Like Josh said, some pitches required hours of excavation. So what is it? Why do the guidebooks suggest that you'll find 5.6 rock at the top in April and May? Why don't they say "mixed adventure climbing"? Is this year so different that the snow and ice are sticking around way later or is this the norm for this route this time of year? John, aka Juan, did you say you thought about rapping down to us? That was me belaying the guys up when I saw you on top. The terrain we were in must have looked pretty interesting from up there. Turned out to be some rockin' weather huh, considering the nastiness up there the night before? Too bad we couldn't swap tales over brews, but we didn't hike out until 3:30 this morning. Thanks again for the boot path.

Uh, yeah, I know. I just really wanted to post the ol' Radio Free New Orleans ROCKS!