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dalius

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Everything posted by dalius

  1. Seriously, why stop at the top of the chairs? Why not take it all the way to the summit? Or get a cat to take you to Rainier's crater rim and then walk across to the summit! You could stay warm, drink a ton of whiskey, and smoke tons of doobies the whole way up Rainier in true style! Why is RMI making all those people walk?
  2. Sounds very wet. Thanks for the status report.
  3. You gotta be kidding me. Right? People calling themselves mountaineers actually pay to take a cat up to the top of the chair? Holy shite, that mountain isn't that much of a hike from Timberline to begin with! How can anybody feel like they actually climbed the mountain after getting a ride up that slope? Next thing ya know people will be hiring porters on Mt. Hood. Sheesh! Somebody please tell me this is just a joke.
  4. Josh, you must a young feller. When I was much younger, blah blah blah blah...As I get longer in the tooth...blah blah blah...Mark these words... blah blah blah blah... Freakin' lazy geriatrics! Sheesh! I betcha even Beckey can get his ass out of bed to take a leak!
  5. I climbed the Direct E. Buttress of S. Early Winter Spire yesterday. The route is in excellent shape. No snow on the route and you can approach from the hairpin on snow all the way to the start of the route. (head straight up to right side of buttress, don't go left). What a stellar route. The only downside to the route is aiding the 5.11 sections (I can't lead that high and I find bolt ladders boring), but other than that this route rocks. Excellent free climbing on excellent rock. ***** East face of Liberty Bell is probably totally dry as well. As far as snow in the area goes, it's warm and cornices were crashing and causing little avalanches everywhere. The snow really is mush around there. And as far as camping goes, the first campground you hit driving towards mazama is mostly empty and totally free. Gotta love that. Anyone know how long that lasts?
  6. Anybody been on South Early Winter Spire, Direct East Butttress yet this year? I'm wondering if it is dry and snow free yet. Also wondering about the NW Corner North Early Winter Spire, but somehow I doubt that is in yet. Anyone know?
  7. 20 meters? A 60 feet deep slab? Sounds uber-deadly!
  8. Dude, everybody knows that the only quality trip reports on this site are those of the __-th ascent of Triple Couloirs! Every freakin' monday there are several more TRs and pics of the same damn route, over and over again. Can't wait to sees 10 more this Monday! Dude! I climbed TC! I'm so fucking bad ass! Look at me! Look at me!
  9. Zero Cam is specially designed to flex all the way to the head. That placement would hold. Any other microcam placed that way would RIP! Whatever, I don't believe it. Somebody please explain to me how a placement like that could possibly hold. Has anyone ever actually placed one like this or is this just all book theory for everyone 'cuz nobody's actually gone out and tried it?
  10. What?! How could it pick Bud? Everyone knows that Old Style is the finest beer around!
  11. What's with all this Dirt talk? It looks like pretty stellar granite from the ground!
  12. You are such nerds.
  13. And you would then be hardcore and all cc.com'rs would lick your toes.
  14. Ah, the infamous and ellusive bridge creek wall. That thing looks stellar. I've heard that beta on this wall is hard or impossible to find, leaving any parties interested in 'scending it with an exploratory adventure climb. This true?
  15. I had a similar thing happen last weekend. I forget whether it was a nut or a biner, but it was freakin' cold out and the damn thing instantly stuck to my toungue. I pulled it out fast enough to keep from drawing blood, but I did burn my tongue. Freakin' aluminum conducts heat away quickly.
  16. OK, call me crazy, but it looks to me that this placement would just rip right the hell out. It's off of WildCountry's site. Am I wrong?
  17. Anybody feel like taking a whipper on one of these? (Wild Country Zero Cam Z1 - smallest cam ever)
  18. I thought it said he was 70?
  19. Go, but just realize you'll be using your ice axes almost all the time!
  20. The problem is, that NOTHING IS GOING TO BE WORKED OUT! The scoop is that BC Rail doesn't give a rat's ass what climbers think and basically laughed at the Access Fund and whoever else was involved trying to keep it open. Supposedly there was absolutely ZERO discussion on BC Rail's part. They made their decision long before they were shown any reports. They do not care. Climb there at your own risk. I guess, techincally, they have a right of way of 7m or so each way from the centerline of the track. That corridor touches the rock at points. People volunteered to put up a fence to keep people out of this corridor, funded by climbers and all, but they do not want it end of discussion.
  21. Fucking sucks. That crag is stellar. Nothing like cragging on the Lower Malamute at sunset. I hear they're not kidding about the ticket thing either. BC rail is some sort of federal or provincial establishment, so tickets are not to be taken lightly. I can just see getting denied entry to Canada due to an unpaid Lower Malamute climbing ticket. Fuckers. I piss on them from a considerable height.
  22. My girlfriend used to Kayak and she's got some stuff she's interested in selling.... 1 Patagonia red mint dry top (goretex?) 1 blue neoprene spray skirt by Perception 1 pair blue Kokatat bib dry bottoms 1 helmet (Perception) 1 throw bag rope thingy 1 life jacket Don't know how much she wants for the stuff, but if you're interested, PM me.
  23. $250 and I'll even sign it!
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