mvs

'kay, here ye are:

Awesome shot, thanks Ivan! I can draw a line on it very easily now, I'll hook that up if anyone is innerested..

haha, thanks man, "<route> is good" is enough for me..

oh sorry I didn't see that. So I "second" it! You got me Off White!

teaching the twins to say 'krab or snap-link instead of carabiner and "bit of tat" instead of sling. Tin of milk instead of capri sun.

No one mentioned the McMillan Spires, but I'd try to squeeze it onto a list of six:

Thanks, I made that from a high res scan of a pic I took on the Serpentine Arete one year ago. Now on this climb I got great pictures of the Arete. It's pretty cool to climb routes on opposite sides of the Colchuck Glacier Freeway from each other . Anybody do the Northeast Buttress of Dragontail? I think that is next on my list...(and the obligatory Backbone if I get the courage for 5.9 offwidth).

I guess I made it sound pretty glum then! Naw, we liked it.

Darn it, yes they do: Robots.txt Query Exclusion. We're sorry, access to http://www.alpinelite.com has been blocked by the site owner via robots.txt. Read more about robots.txt See the site's robots.txt file. Try another request or click here to search for all pages on alpinelite.com/ See the FAQs for more info and help, or contact us.

Way to go Doxey! Also to Jake, Marek and Peter great job! My first try was with Jake and Marek, we got hammered by rain and Impasse difficulties. I echo Slothrop.

Yeps! Here are a kupla pics: Trying to get to the ridge crest: On the crest:

Climb: Colchuck Peak-Northeast Buttress Date of Climb: 6/26/2005 Trip Report: Theron and I had a great time on this route, although we were constantly bedeviled by "routefinding issues." The Kearney start was not accessible due to a huge moat, so we started roughly on the Beckey version, making a harder (but recommended, it was fun) start on 5.8 cracks for 25 meters straight up to reach a ledge. After flirting with "rotten pink rock" we climbed a chimney and traversed our way over to treed ledges. A really enjoyable clean 5.5 pitch in a dihedral then across a face followed. Now on the long ramp left, we probably went too far and climbed (somewhat scary) slabs to an airy belay, then were saved by a 5.8 corner crack and easier terrain that led to the ridge crest. The crest was fun for two pitches, then we traversed right to get around a headwall. Another 2-3 pitches of mid-fifth and easier topped us out 20 feet below the summit on the ridge. We saw one good fixed piton and numerous bail slings low on the route, but nothing above halfway. We took 8 hours on the route, having to backtrack or ponder situations several times. A nice adventure! Gear Notes: medium rack, 50 meter thin rope (doubled). No need for crampons.

Carneys scare me. Small hands you know. Smell of cabbage.

I lost 18 pounds since March, from 196 to 178. Couple of observations: 1) I tried the atkins diet (I know, start yelling), as I'd had good results with it 2 years before. It didn't seem to work this time. 2) I went trail running a lot January to March. That got me to 188 or so, but then stubborn. 3) I got frustrated because I was excercising a lot, but not losing any more weight. So... 4) I bought a fad diet book, called "The Ultimate New York Body Plan," by a cheesy supermodel consultant guy. I followed it exactly, with the indispensable help of my wife making the assigned meals to the letter. The food was like Atkins, pretty much: lean meat and green vegatables, very little else. 5 meals a day. 45 minutes to 1.5 hour workout per day, for 14 days. It worked really well, helping me lose 12 pounds by the end of two weeks. Now I could climb a bit harder in the gym, which was exciting. I also found that it was better from a weight-loss perspective to go easier on the cardio workout. More like 45 minutes at 140 bpm, instead of 150-160 like I was doing before with trail running (or higher). I don't know why that's true and folks have told me that doesn't make sense, but it's an important component (for me). I've decided also that weighing myself every day is a big help, and writing down what I ate. There is a direct link between how much you eat, how much you exercise and weight gain or loss. I am a "master of the obvious" but writing it down and weighing every day keeps me honest. I am 5'11" and would like to be about 170, so I have a few more pounds to go. It's actually been a fun journey, though it took reaching a point of frustration to get militant about it and do it right.

Hey Michael I was thinking about Galaxy, is it that bad? Long corner, too brushy?

the hills have eyes is a must see movie. i love the 70s winniebago and accessories.

How about Mt. Stuart and Sherpa Peak to round out the 4 days?

my site traffik went through the roof! http://www.mountainwerks.org/cma/2004/images/condorphamine.jpg

That was a good read. But dang, just to comment from the peanut gallery, rappelling in complete darkness is just asking to get hung up somewhere, as they did. It's not like you can pretend you'll make it to the car before morning with such fumblings. So just wait it out. I'd much rather wave the helicopter away in the morning as I descended correctly thanks to light. Anyway, glad they made it safely.

Ah there is the problem, Air Guitar and (possibly) George and Martha are easy for 5.10, they should be 5.9.

It was pretty steep when we were there. Plus the snow was kind of rotting. Here is a picture of the rappel. I have heard of people rappeling and/or turning around due to steepness without a rope: But it's true, a 25 meter rappel is enough to get past the really steep part.

Great climb guys - do post some kinda pics!

nobody reads that page.

Thanks all. Leaving at 3 am was a good call, and put us just above the dihedral when the sun hit. Fun climb!

What time did you guys leave the car?