Lostbolt

Have done Chair buttress in a dry powder year and a good water ice year. Chair is very comparable to DK1/Gates on hood as far as difficultly to me. Route finding isn't to bad/ hard Climb enough and you can sniff a way up. The higher consequnce part is the slabs just below and above the Wi3 step on Chair. The snow conditions are way more sensitive. NY Gully is a good challenging route to get on up there. This based on multi summits of Hood,Adams,Rainier, ectect. Shoot me a PM and we can exchange information, I am always looking for personality's that fit and another option on the climbing contacts list.

Such a bad ass man!!

Nice corner you guys got on looks to have some good rests and possible stemming. Is it in its way in or out I haven't been down there this year?

Excellent job and wonderful pictures! wondering what you guys would rate the climb?

You have my interest, I will use the google machine. Where you going to include this said link here on a post?

I have climbed Ice cliff and stuart col. west ridge a few years ago in prime condition in middle april. I went in yesterday for a C2C and summited Colchuck to get a eye on things. Dragon tail has triple Col coming in the ice step is just starting to form, I would attempt it in the next few weeks. As far as Stuart goes, the end of april would probably be better. As of now the ice cliff and Stuart Glacier faces are loaded and probably full of loose dry sluff with a crappy crust. The summit block and ridge lines are in there winter state also. Gerber sink is not in a condition for screws. Hopefully this weather system keeps up and forms some better route conditions. Be prepared for the spring time afternoon high winds and crappy fronts that roll in this time of year. The gate at 8mile campground is still closed and will be for some time, I hit snow at about 1.5 mi in. It was about 1ft deep and consistent at the 2 mile mark. The trail is packed to the Colchuck intersection and easy travel in the cooler hrs. If you need a second reach out and I might be able to make it work, best of luck. will load pictures soon.

Thank you for getting back on your assessment it's much appreciated.

How did conditions on Gib Ledges look, everything glued together pretty well above you? Nice Job!

I think those were by far my favorite trip reports to read. They also fall in line of my thoughts on wouldn't it be cool to climb.. like Sir Alexandra in Canada they are far in and very committing. You are fortunate to have found a partner to attempt these climbs with you. Keep em up and Cheers to you both!

Matt was a good forecaster and I am sure a very talented individual. Its a sad deal in many aspects. Never knew about crap like that on the internet, I appreciate you guys sharing. I hope the NWAC Family is getting time to process this tragic event.

Awesome report!! What are your favorite 3 that you have done on this winter bulgers tick list?

Is that what those are? I will keep a eye out for you on others that might work

I was able to make this setup work with some old rear crampon straps, I haven't found a narrow toe bail that will work yet. I haven't noticed any movement on the boot once its locked in though. Its stiff enough for the stuff I do down the roads and approaches. I have not put the downhill lock back on yet as I wasn't sure if I would be keeping them.

In between Eagle and Wahpenayo is Chutla also good little scramble. Nice job catching the weather and getting to the seldom visited end of the Tatoosh.

Most excellent!!