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Michael Telstad

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Everything posted by Michael Telstad

  1. My friend Sean and I went for the FSA (First Second Ascent) this weekend the slow and heavy way, Unfortunately the weather gods had different plans. When we got to camp in the basin it had snowed more than expected, and kept snowing hard through the night. We called it as we were going to bed to the sounds of large natural slides ripping down the north and west face. Luckily I brought my fat (read only) skis and we got a few laps of knee deep powder in the basin before skiing out. I had been looking at your guys line earlier this season as the obvious line of weakness up the face but I lack the motivation to venture that far into the unknown. Thanks for dreaming big and I hope you heal up fast to get back out there this summer!
  2. 2019/2020 OR/WA Ice Conditions

    The rain then freeze cycle last week made for some good alpine ice conditions at the pass. NW Butt on Chair was in cruiser condition yesterday. Would likely be hard to protect per usual. The upcoming snow fall will likely make it wallowy again. Hard to tell if routes on Snoqualmie are in or not. Someone should go check out NY gulley. Had to chop out the cornice.
  3. I think I have one of those! Will have to verify size and version when I get home but it sure does have some large drop pockets.
  4. for sale FS: Cilogear 60L Worksack

    Is this still available?
  5. 2019/2020 OR/WA Ice Conditions

    Some ice is coming in around paradise at the lower elevations. This is a flow off the NW face of Eagle Peak north. Looks a little out of my pay grade, but I think it would go.
  6. Never Never Crack

    I've walked by it plenty and stared at it. It looks pretty grimy but shouldn't take too much work.
  7. [TR] Eldorado Peak - NW Ice Couloir 11/06/2019

    Climbed it yesterday and found slightly different conditions. Due to Tuesdays precip, there was a fair bit of mostly well bonded wind blown snow on the glaciers, this made for slower travel. The route got a lot of wind transfer, and most of the cruiser neve for other folks was deep wallowing and for us. The ice steps were still tons of fun with the occasional spin drift to the face. Dare I say the thing was picked out. I figured instead of writing yet another NW Couloir TR I'd just comment here...
  8. Aasgard Sentinel pictures (Winter)

    Does anyone have any pictures of Aasgard Sentinel in the winter? Asking for a friend.
  9. wanted to buy Static Line

    Line found!
  10. wanted to buy Static Line

    I'm looking for a 60-70m static line between 9-10mm for hauling. I'm open to a range of prices and states of use.
  11. Yosemite Valley September 21- October 10th

    Partner found!
  12. Hey Folks, I'm gonna be down in the valley from about Sep 21st- Oct 10th and am looking for partners for some of the time. I'm looking for folks who are solid 5.10+/11- climbers but are up for trying something like the Rostrum. Ideally I'd like to go home having done at least one El-cap route, but I'm definitely not just going down to aid climb. Shoot me a text at 206-641-1920 and we can see if our ambitions align. -Michael
  13. Ride of the Valkyries @ Purina

    I've been cleaning it up lately and it seems totally safe. No pins in the roof (1 oxidized fixed nut) and plenty of gear opportunities made it an easy aid solo to get the rope up. All anchors have been replaced but i'm still waiting to get my hands on some chain. I'm gonna give it some more scrubbing and a free burn on Tuesday. I'll also be taking my rope down then, sorry about the eye sore. P1 is more or less good to go but still needs chain on the anchor. I may also do some work on the other routes that you access from the alcove.
  14. Ride of the Valkyries @ Purina

    Does anyone know if Ride of the Valkyries has seen any action in a while? Seeing that its a Hugh Herr FA has me wondering if it's a major sandbag. Or if the beta is to wear stilts with camhooks on the end and helium balloons tied around your ankles.
  15. Last Ascents in the Cascades

    Some folks have been doing work on the hardware up there lately. Give it some time and some of those routes should be all shiny and clean again.
  16. [TR] Prusik Peak - Stanley-Burgner + Solid gold 05/29/2019

    Yup. I'm hoping they take it down once the snow melts as it does have potential to create a decent amount of trash. Especially if they continue to do it every season.
  17. Just repeated the route last Sunday. Stellar line and definitely has real free climbing potential on that second pitch, though currently a bit out of my pay grade. I'm curious if anyone has tried trundling the scary block on the last independent pitch. It adds some unneeded stress to a pretty low stress route, and seems like it would go pretty easily, either via crowbar or un-expecting leader.
  18. Ultimate Lib Bell group enchainment?

    The real plum is an E face route on each formation in 24 hours. If it has ever been done I'd love to hear about the strategy.
  19. Trip: Nesakwatch Spires - SW ridge North spire Trip Date: 05/27/2018 Trip Report: Thanks to G-Spotter's Slesse Conditions report from two weeks ago, Tess and I were inspired to skip the Squamish crowds and go check out the Nesakwatch spires over the long (for us Americans) weekend. On Saturday morning we made the surprisingly easy drive in to the valley after nearly being sent to secondary for trying to take an apple over the border. Thanks to my mediocre off roading skills we almost got stuck twice in the first washout we hit along the road, but Zoe the 2011 forester pulled through. Not wanting to get stuck in the next real washout we opted for the road walk instead. The washout in question. From there the road is pretty manageable all the way to the actual bad washout. Which lasts for about a quarter mile and would need a pretty serious rig to navigate. There were fresh tire tracks so clearly it is not impossible. This new signage is pretty sweet, though i'm not sure it's totally necessary. After the road walking the trail pretty much just goes straight up. The trail was pretty much snow free up to the base of the rock wall at 5100ft. Tennies were really nice up to that point. Two guys were working on a new line on the rock wall below the spires. If anyone knows them I'm curious to hear how the route turned out. The snow made for very easy travel through the boulder fields. And it also made camping much much easier. The Bivy boulder is almost completely snow free but we didn't find it until we had already set up camp. So we used this boulder instead. The clouds gave quite the show on Saturday night, nothing beats this view. We woke up to grey skies and a cold wind so decided to wait a bit in hopes that things would warm up a bit And warm up it did. The splitter headwall cracks. Felt like easy 5.8 to me. Wish they had been longer. Summit! There was quite a bit of snow sticking around on the NE faces and some decided to rip loose from the ridge in the left of this picture. In order to avoid steep rotten snow on the standard descent we found a rap route down the S face. This particular station was a little cramped. There is still a lot of snow up there but that shouldn't discourage anyone from making the trek. Most of the easy routes appear to be holding a lot of snow but the steeper stuff like Dairyland looked to be in great shape. Go out and get it folks! Gear Notes: 2x .4-2 1x 3,4 nuts Boots & axe may be nice but no need for crampons Approach Notes: Tennies up to the rock wall (5100ft) Boots the rest of the way. Washouts at 2.3mi and 3.3mi depending on your vehicle.
  20. [TR] hubba-hubba hill - the funnel 03/15/2019

    Shit! Climbed the main flow on Thursday and everything seemed solid but HOT! Nothing falling off and the snow seemed very consolidated. I guess pushing my partner to bring avy gear was the right move. If not to just find our bodies. The Funnel lives up to it's name!
  21. Trip: Juno Tower - Clean Break Trip Date: 07/30/2018 Trip Report: It seems like Gabe and I have had a track record this season of finding the most marginal weather in the state, then choosing to go for it anyways. From plenty of wet and cold days in vantage last winter to an early season one day climb of prusik in a Blizzard, and a very cold and rainy day in the liberty bell group. This climb was no exception. On Sunday we drove over from Seattle and after cragging a little in the shady icebox canyon we stashed a bike and some Gatorade just off the road at the wine spires pullout. On our drive down to Winthrop for dinner we stopped by the Cutthroat lake rd to chat with the ranger who was stationed there. He informed us that the fire was under control and that it likely wouldn't impact our climb the next day. The next morning we woke up at 3am and left the car at 3:30 in an attempt to get to the base at first light. With a weather forecast of 90 on the summit of Silverstar we knew it was going to be a hot one. It was. Gabe trying to get us un-lost on the approach. The route basking in some nice alpenglow as we cross some slabs below the base. The first pitch is the stellar tight hands splitter on the right side of the blank wall. We got up to the base by scrambling up the chossy gulley to the left of the snow. There was an exciting 5th class mantle at the top that some might want to rope up for. No need for snow gear! I quickly learned on the first pitch that 1.)over 3 liters of water is heavy. 2.)warming up on 10c with a heavy pack is hard. And 3.) it's already damn hot and i'm sweating a lot. Somehow I managed to pull off the OS and was glad to have triples in .5 & .75. The rest of the route went pretty smoothly despite feeling like shit while baking in the sun. Luckily our packs were getting lighter really fast! Gabe styling the 10a roofy slabs. Gabe fighting with a tree on the 5.6/5.8 traverse pitch Pretending to be having fun while trying not to vomit from heat exhaustion. Moments before Gabe threw a hissy fit because our friend Jeff told us we didn't need a 4 for this pitch. The perfect rack would be one 3 and one 3.5. We had 2 3's and the crack gets wider than a 3 at the lip. Gabe didn't like that. Some of the first shade encountered on route. Trying to use the cold rock to cool down. More shade on the big ledge before the simul block to the summit. This was a real life saver though a big time suck. You're apparently supposed to stay right of the ridge crest here for more enjoyable climbing. I think we passed the only spot to get over so were forced to climb the lame sandy gullies to the left. Can't say I recommend them, but they get you to the summit. Summit stoke! We topped out at 1pm for a time of 9:30 C2S. Not too bad for how crappy we were feeling. Looking up Vasiliki ridge. One hell of a traverse! The descent follows the "obvious gully" then traverses left and down A LOT back to bench camp. There is plenty of kitty litter on slab skiing along the way to keep it exciting. Overall Clean Break is a stellar route with high quality rock and not a whole lot of routefinding issues to be had. This makes for a relatively fast 15 pitch 5.10 in a rad location. We really learned our lesson not to climb big routes on such hot weekends, and to bring a filter, not iodine if we end up doing it anyways. Half an hour is far too long to wait when you are that thirsty. Gear Notes: Rack: Doubles .2-3, Triple .5 & .75, A few nuts, 2 microtraxions. Either replace the second 3 with a 3.5, or just bring a 4. We brought 4 liters of water each. We should have brought a filter, chugged water at the base, filled up 3L, then refilled at bench camp. 2 UL poles, no axe Approach Notes: Silverstar creek trail is not super straight forward to follow in the dark so I definitely recommend having a GPS track on your phone to follow, it helps speed things along a bit. Same goes for the descent.
  22. Rapelling in to Slow Children?

    Use the anchor for Tommy's Sandbox. Be very careful not to knock anything off the top, it'll land right at the base of godzilla. Also if you choose to do it on a weekend, which I don't recommend, be quick and don't take over such a popular route. I personally try and only TR solo more obscure routes as not to get in the way, the exception being empty days in the winter or iffy weather days when no one else is around.
  23. [TR] Nesakwatch Spires - SW ridge North spire 05/27/2018

    @eberman Right on, i'll keep an eye out for your FA trip report!
  24. Descend Burgundy Col without an axe?

    Climbed Clean Break yesterday as a carry over from Silverstar creek. We didn't encounter any snow at all and except for some nasty off route bushwacking on the descent it was pretty mellow. I'd highly recommend this over approaching from burgundy which I've heard is just as much effort as approaching from silverstar. Regarding the fire, it looked almost completely out and very under control. They threw a lot of resources at that thing and it looked like it worked. It's a stellar route and you should definitely get on it!
  25. Seen a car with New Mexico plates at a trailhead?

    Have you found out if your friend is OK? I climbed glacier the week after you posted this and found an abandoned tent on the approach. It was there on our way in, and on our way down, just sitting on the side of the trail in a dried up stream bed.
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