Ben Beckerich

Nice. I've also done it in thin/mixed conditions.... man that rock is JUNK, even when it's frozen solid up there. I bailed off at the top, and joined with the Pearly Gates topout on that trip.... but got to experience the wonderful crux unconsolidated east-face snow on the backside of the gendarme the second time. Definitely the scariest three moves of the route.

I've never done it, and it's been a while since anyone has done it (or at least reported it), but you can actually climb the rock to the left of the second step.. Low 5th class with solid (alpine volcano) holds, in frozen conditions. I wouldn't attempt it if the temp is or has been above 30 degrees recently. The first step is 4th class, when bare. Bring pins!

If they're in good shape and fit your skis (the hardest part to get to line up) there's nothing wrong with going used, but that's if you can find them, and in the time frame you need them. You might spend months trying to find some used skins that fit your needs. A lot of people swear by G3.. most of the G3 skins I've had experience with have been fine, but I did get a set of HT splitboard skins that had bad glue... so my love for G3 is naturally diminished. We'll see how the replacement set holds up. I ptetty much never hear anything bad about BD's Ascention skins... I had no problems with the set I had, and got them for a righteous on sale price from REI- like $90 or something. No idea if you'd be able to find a similar deal right now, though.... it's the season, afterall.

I don't see a price listed... what's it dropped to?

Being the mountain's windshield, these routes generally come in early... If temps and conditions are favorable, Reid should be pretty much always "in" It can be a real hell of a bowling alley when it's shedding rime, though. Don't recommend going up during the first warmup after a storm.

Got 'em -Ben

I've heard some people comment that some new dry-treated ropes can be a little slippy at first, but all ropes should work perfectly fine with a correctly installed prusik. Understand the limitations of friction hitches- i.e., they can slip under certain circumstances, and you should know what those are.... and you'll be fine with any rope.

When was the last time Canada had a central roll in a war? Let 'em rock out

And fuck Mountain Hardwear and their two month long turn around for warranty claims. I think I'm done with those guys also.

I'd love to know what causes PU degradation.. I think it's gotta be an environmental thing. Too much humidity, too little, too cold, too hot... something. Some people's PU coated packs and tents and sacks and shit stay bomber for a decade, while other's craps out in a couple years. And I definitely wouldn't be content to let the manufacturer claim it a "wear and tear" issue, like Deadbird did with a pack of mine. If I'm going to select a manufacturer to drop my $300 on BECAUSE I feel they're the least likely to sell me a product that will fall apart in a few years, and then their product falls apart in a few years, they'd better damn well give the benefit of the doubt and make it righteous for you. In fact, now that I've gotten that out of my system, I feel inspired to let Arc'Teryx know I'm not going to be satisfied with their answer about that pack. Especially when they'll fully replace my bro's 10 year old Alpha SV, which was a lot more beat up than my pack.

I don't know what Next Adventure's return policy is - will they exchange without a receipt? G3 told me to try the vendor first, and to get back to them if I didn't get anywhere there... so they were obviously receptive to helping. I did also get a followup email from another dude that said "the solution is to re-glue," and gave me a link to, I think, their own re-gluing product. Maybe at the very least they'll send you some of that shit free. Never hurts to ask... these things ain't cheap.

No experience with that problem on the Trango directly, but I've had PU coatings degrade. Love that telltale poop smell. For only 3 years old, I'd definitely complain to MHW. My one warranty claim with them was kinda BS, but they did replace my gloves- just had to jump through their retarded hoops.

Howdy Hoping to snag a Meteor III+ locally in the Portland area in the next day or two, used for a good price. What are the odds? Probably not great... but if someone's got an extra because their ex-girlfriend fappin' sucked at climbing anyway, I'm here to put that guy to use. -Ben benjaminbeckerich@gmail.com

I intend to start building a bike of my own, frame up. Totally open to suggestions for good, less expensive-but-still-rad-frames to look for As well as other parts

A bro righteously gave me a Jake the Snake on indefinite loan today.. took 'er out tonight and did a lap around the town... pretty stoked. Thinking about taking a ride down to Corn Pass and back tomorrow.

I haven't watched "the news" in about three years... I really couldn't tell you a damn thing, to be honest. Same goes for any and all TV, aside from the occasional episode of Archer or High Gear on Netflix.

They just go where the money is.

Howdy I haven't ridden a bike since I was about 13. I live in Saint Helens and frequently chill in Portland-and-surrounding.... what an awesome way to exercise and cut fuel cost? But I might hate it, so I'm not looking to spend a lot. What's the 90s cheap but still useable bike I should be looking for? Budget is: as little as possible, until I'm sure it's something I'm actually gonna be doing. Terrain will be hwy 30 between Portland and Saint Helens, with the occasional trip over Rocky Point road (since biking on Corn Pass is fucking retarded) Thanks

I don't want to bogart all the free gear, but my boys could use the shit out of those carabiners. I'll take all the Ds, if someone else wants the ovals and draws

I'm also almost completely self-taught, and continually self-teaching. I've had a couple "mentor" types sort of come and go, but it always comes about that I end up knowing more than them, and don't gain much. I haven't climbed with any real alpine masters- just self-professed "experienced" guys who figure they're experienced because it's been a lot of years since the first time they climbed.... but probably average like 1 or 2 trips a year, if that? This is the problem with asking someone how long they've been climbing as a gage of how much they know- could be 20 years, but 99% of those 20 years were spent swinging beer glasses, not ice tools. Some people take to books, some do not. I happen to be someone who can read a book about how to do things and can go out and execute well in the field. I'm not particularly brilliant, I just have that unique ability. I don't think most people can learn things adequately that way, which is why professional services are a viable industry. If you can read up on avalanche safety, anchor building, rock and ice climbing technique, physical fitness, weather prediction, etc, etc., and can take it all into the field and recall it all on the spot while tired, scared, under time pressure, and with people watching- get the fap out there and do it!

PMed

What kind of vehicle? I've got a 4x4 truck with AT tires and chains I could use... at 14mpg

found some Looking for some used MTN plates on slider tracks... got sum? benjaminbeckerich@gmail.com

G3 got back to me... they said I need to take them back to the shop. Reading the warranty, I see that's their policy. So will do. I found the receipt- they're less than a year old, so I should be good to just exchange them, but I've never returned anything at Mountain Shop. Don't know what their policy is. I shall find out! Now I just gotta figure out how to get all this sap off the base of my board. Riding just smeared it around

If you're wrenching down on them and they're still loosening up that fast, I might suspect you'd rounded the threads on the bolt. Might consider replacing.. and then definitely degrease the threads and use blue loctite.