Newman55

Josh - Welcome to the PNW! Sent you a PM about hiking tomorrow. Cheers, Alex

Anyone out there taken the 3 Day Glacier Skills and Crevasse Rescue course offered by AAI on Mt. Baker? I'm thinking about taking it this June. Seems like AAI get's pretty good feedback from folks on CC. Just wondering if anyone had specifically taken this class, or had feedback about their instruction, or perhaps an alternative course offered by another guide agency. Thanks

There are a ton of ways you could improve on crampon design. Features that would be useful... Universal fit (that doesn't require a bulky toe and heel welts in order to accommodate bails on step-in style crampon) Minimize the time it takes to take off or put on for transitioning from rock to snow (more of an issue with aluminum) points. Step ins are relatively quick but strap on crampons take time, especially with gloves. Maybe a crampon with a BOA system that's becoming popular on ski and snowboard boots? It would have to fit a wide variety of boots. How about ratcheting toe-points that stay level even if you raise your heel? Would prevent shearing but also allow a climber to gain a few extra inches of reach using the calves.... Just ideas

For the sake of posterity... We brought a 40M dry glacier rope and tied all 4 climbers to it 10m apart. (not recommended but it's the only rope we had under 60M and we didn't want the additional weight). Everyone also wore crampons and carried an ice axe and poles. We spent a total of about 3.5 hours on glacier, moving quickly to avoid exposure to rock fall. there were a few crevasses open, but most were covered with thin snow-bridges. one guy climbing the previous day punched through with one leg, but he was able to climb away safely with help. also a very small section of travel over small seracs and ice boulders seen below and to the left of climbers on the photo, deep cracks and crevasses underneath. total travel across this section was around 300 feet. on summit at around 10:30 am, and headed back down after 30 minutes break. the snow had softened considerably but the rockfall hadn't increased at all, so we were fine. we did spot a wolverine on the Cool Glacier below us, which was an awesome 1st time experience for all of us. round trip from and back to Glacier Gap was around 5.5 hours.

Are you planning on thru-hiking or section hiking? I would think you'd be better off devoting that extra weight to additional traction (like a set of microspikes), and snow baskets for your poles... Is an ice axe recommended by guidebooks or other resources? I've never hiked through the Sierras on the PCT, but I would think an ice axe would be overkill (and super heavy). It's always just better to not fall - and underfoot traction and a pair of sturdy poles will help with that much more than an axe.

I'm also interested in hearing about the InReach. Sounds like Cale has the unit made to link to the Delorme handheld GPS, but I know they also make one that links to a smartphone.

After spending the weekend out on Mt. Si with KCSAR, I decided that it's time I picked up a handheld GPS. Stopped by REI last night to take a look and compare models. Realized that REI has recently stopped carrying Delorme and Megellan GPS units and now carries Garmin exclusively. This is disappointing because a year ago REI offered a much broader range of products. Reading reviews online, it seems that a lot of folks are frustrated with Garmin's software and counter-intuitive interfacing. The Garmin units that have by-far the best reviews on Amazon, (the GPSMAP 60CS line) have been discontinued by Garmin. It doesn't seem like the Delorme units are particularly more popular on Amazon than the Garmin units, but I find that Amazon shoppers are not the most reliable - as many of them use the units for purposes that do not include back-country navigation. Intended uses: backpacking, climbing, search and rescue, fishing and hunting. Would love to hear thoughts and opinions on specific models or on brands as a whole. Thanks!

Thanks for posting that article Choada.

There were a couple of tragic and unlikely accidents on the pass just before the holidays. We have two family cabins in the lake Wenatchee area and I was up there this last weekend. I've never seen so many trees down in that area in the 17 years I've been around. Most of the downed timber in relatively flat forest area had snapped off between 20-30 feet up the trunk. Those trees that stood near rivers or on terrain steeper than 15 degrees seemed to have mostly uprooted. I was told that the huge amounts of precip loaded the trees before soil temps had dropped sufficiently to freeze the root systems solid, resulting in uprooting. I'm curious about why so many trees on flat terrain snapped.

Need to buy a probe for an upcoming avy class. What length should I be looking at? I don't ski, so I generally would be using it snowshoeing and snow camping. Maybe a little winter mountaineering down the road on a volcano or two. All in the PNW. What are folks carrying out there? Thanks

Looking for my first mountaineering boot to get me up and down Rainier and other PNW volcanoes / also might dabble in a little ice climbing. I've tried on a few pairs but so far really like the Scarpa Mont Blancs. Just looking for a little advice on fit. I don't have any experience with mountaineering boots - I've done all climbing up to this point in Scarpa M3s. Do I want a mountaineering boot to fit tight around a thick sock or should I be looking for a little wiggle room in the toe-box? Which shop in Seattle is going to give me the best advice on fit? So far I've been pretty confident in the advice received at Feathered Friends. Thanks

Anybody out there climbing at Vertical World in Seattle during the winter? New to gym climbing, just looking for someone to meet up with before or after work to climb with. I'm 25, male, like pina coladas and getting caught in the rain. Not looking for a long term relationship right now. Interested in partners of all ages and experience levels. Just trying to learn. Also please see my personals add on Craigslist. I work at Nuun and will hook it up with free electrolytes. Newman

Been reading Will Gadd's book on modern ice and mixed climbing technique. He recommends practicing abalakov and ice anchor building on frozen lake ice to get a feel for it. I guess this would be helpful for practicing the angle of entry for ice screws in v-thread construction, but I am interested to hear opinions on how helpful/useless this would be in learning to build strong ice anchors. Also open to other suggestions for practicing anchor construction on ice, (other than hiking into an actual route and building anchors) - only one criteria: i don't want to pay for it. Thanks!

No permit required to overnight at the lakes this time of year correct?

Thanks to all that were kind enough to respond to my question despite the faux pas of posting in the wrong section of the forum. Anyone care to shed a little light on specific traits desirable in quick-draws depending on the type of climbing done? Longer dogbones for Sport? Bent-gate biners for Ice? Does it matter at all, or do you all use your quickdraws across all climbing disciplines? Thanks again for all the info - very helpful.

Folks, Asking formy first set of quick-draws for Christmas. Leaning towards the Black Diamond Oz set - basically just because they're lightweight. Any opinions out there about these? Thanks

I was up at Over-Easy and Curtain Call. I was not with one of the clinics, just with friends.

So just to clarify, I was wearing Scarpa SL M3s. That is about as burly a boot as you can get that wouldn't be considered a mountaineering boot I guess. The Vibram M3s are pretty rigid. Definitely not on the level of the Phantom or Mont Blanc from Scarpa - that I understand. I had actually brought a pair of rented plastic boots from REI (Scarpa Invernos). But I had decided to make the approach (two hour hike uphill in deep snow) in my M3s because I trust them and didn't want to start the day with blisters from a rented boot. When we arrived at the base of the route, it was about 20 degrees, and we were all cold and I didn't want to bother changing boots to the Invernos even though I'd carried the damn things all the way up in my pack. So I climbed in the M3s, and the G10s, because those were the only crampons we had that were compatible with my boots. I don't mind picking up a new pair of crampons to support the new hobby. I plan to buy a pair of rigid mountaineering boots anyways for future exploits up the volcanoes (note: the M3s got me to and up Glacier Peak just fine). I just wanted to feel out what the community thought of these options. Thanks to everyone for all the info! It's very helpful - as all responses to CC posts, absolute lack of consensus : )

I agree - it may take a few years before you would find the need to go with mono points. Lots of good info in Craig Luebben's book 'How to Ice Climb'. I climbed ice for the first time this past weekend in Hyalite Canyon at the Bozeman Ice Fest. I was wearing Grivel G10s (horizontal front points)on my backpacking boots. I only own a pair of BD Contact Crampons which would be comparable to the G10s... Was thinking the monopoints looked a heck of a lot easier to use, and was also thinking a more secure binding would be preferred.

Just looking for input from the community. Looking at getting into ice climbing and curious about crampons. I'm specifically interested in the advantages/disadvantages of mono or dual point setups (up front). Interested in personal opinions/experiences (i know you'll give these anyways) as well as links to other resources concerning the topic. Thanks all!

Thanks everyone for the feedback! Lots of good information on this thread. At this time, I'm pretty much set on AAI for a number of reasons; 1.) lots of positive recommendations from the comments above. 2.) Class takes place in Leavenworth, where I have a cabin (free lodging) and do most of my recreating (basing on the assumption that conditions will be most similar to those I will encounter in my back-country adventures) 3.) I have access to a discount as a SAR volunteer. 4.) I can participate on snowshoes since I don't have skis. Cheers!

Check out Lake Wenatchee State Park. Mid-80s in the Summer, but stays cool right on the lake. Great recreation in the area - hiking, fishing, boating, floating the Wenatchee river with a couple cases of beer is a blast. There are a ton of rental cabins in the area too. Groceries available in Plain (20 minutes), Midway (5 minutes) or Leavenworth (30 minutes). If you're in the busiest part of the season, you may have trouble with noise annoying other campers, as the group sites aren't far removed from the rest of the camp (if I recall correctly) Good luck! http://www.parks.wa.gov/parks/?selectedpark=lake%20Wenatchee&subject=all Group Accommodations: The park offers a group camp that accommodates 20 to 80 people. Only tent camping is allowed in the group camp. Fees vary with size of the group. To make a reservation, visit online or call (888) CAMPOUT or (888) 226-7688.

I need to gain a little avalanche safety knowledge. I'm doing some research on AIARE level 1 courses, hoping to take one this spring. Just looking for recommendations here. Did you have a good or bad experience with one course/service or another? Which organizations have the best reputation? Which is the best value? Thanks everyone!

Do you have to be somehow connected to Boeing in order to qualify for membership? I have no relations that have ever worked for the company. Thanks

I'm in the early stages of planning a 3-day summit attempt on Glacier Peak. We want to travel as fast and light as possible and I'm wondering what we need to bring for the mountain. Right now the plan is to carry ice axes, and perhaps a 30meter rope. Not sure about crampons, will probably opt for lighter micro-spikes or yak-trax. Leaving behind pulleys, pickets, etc. Any tips on snow conditions this late in the Season would be a huge help. Thanks!