alpine et

seems you learned a lesson about conditions... though I feel the need to mention for others who read this who might not realize the seriousness of this area in the wrong conditions. can't imagine a worse time to pick out a steep south face to climb...

I've never used a tag line, but I thought it was usually set up to always pull the tag line. That way the increased friction that is likely to be found on the thicker strand of your climbing rope won't tend to pull the knot down... it'll get blocked by moving by the anchor (or ice). I guess the only advantage to this system is that you immediately start getting climbing rope back when you pull.... so if anything were to get stuck, you're not left with just tag line?

discussion on extending the rappel got me googling around for some ideas, and this setup from the petzl website seems pretty slick... a hard connection and an intermediate point for the device with one (I'd bet double?) sling. but, to stay a bit on topic, sweet pics guys. really dig seeing that side of the mountain in the early morning light.

Anyone been around Baker Lake recently? Looking at driving up NF-1152 up towards Shannon Ridge. I realize its not gonna be driveable anywhere near the trailhead, but I was hoping to get an idea of how long the slog would be. If you'd like to take some of the adventure out of it for us - feel free! most recent info here, which is mostly useless at this point... thanks

Liberty bell is a classic. On the weekends it'll be crowded. On weekdays you still are likely to see other people if weather is good. You could do a route on Shuksan as a closer alternative. If rock is sounding good, though, also consider Burgundy Spire... it has a 5.8 route up it. Longer approach than Liberty Bell, but more interesting climbing and less crowded. Could do the linkup with Pisano Pinnacle to Burgundy Spire if you're efficient... When I climbed the N. Ridge we didn't set any speed records for sure, but were bummed to not have planned to be able to crash at camp after the climb. Walking out in the dark after the early start was rough...

gotcha - thanks guys. see everybody out there.........

Anyone hear anything further about this: http://www.king5.com/news/environment/New-Safety-Concerns-on-Columbia-River-249989341.html The Washington Department of Fish and Wildlife has closed five different sites, including Yo Yo, Old Vantage Highway, Sunland Estates, buckshot, and Frenchman Coulee/Climbing Rocks.

http://www.gayoutdoors.org/page.cfm?typeofsite=storydetail&id=992&storyset=yes ...fair enough. But I only pretend to be a dirtbag climber - I'd happily plop down $8 for some climbing pron entertainment.

lesson number one... sneak in the back door.

Hyak or one of the other areas on the south side of I90.

beautiful sunset colors!! was there just before new years and there were barely any clouds in the sky.... nice enough to warm days climbing, but boring sunrise/sunsets...

FWIW this is a shot of the basin and slide area on Sunday. Two parties of two near the notch, and two starting down below. Suspiciously human sized tree in between. When I topped out into the basin I skinned up and over a low angle super stiff windslab (loaded up from a northerly winds). Couldn't even get my ski edge into the thing... would have thought it was just scoured to old crust if it weren't for the deep hollow sound. Glad it was on like 10 degree slope... [img:left]https://scontent-a-sea.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/1502522_10105793667430914_815138452_n.jpg[/img]

Sunday wasn't too crazy. We started off from the parking lot at 730ish on skis, passed pretty quickly by some snow shoers. Skiing was certainly slower until at least Source Lake... By the time we popped up on the ridge we had opted to enjoy a mellow day, ski the good snow we passed by and forgo the climb. There was certainly one party of two on the route, with perhaps a second one bailing at the top of the ice (?) not too crowded!

With pictures like those, I'm not sure I'd call this an unsuccessful trip. Would love to join you guys if another window, with less wind, opens up.The sunshine in JTree was pleasant as a light breeze blew while I read your TR...

i can't imagine hauling a month's worth of water. or poo.

No my calendar isn't broken. But... let's say it's October and you're looking to plan a trip to do some mountaineering... mostly beginner to intermediate glacier climbs. Short moderate ice steps doable. Alpine rock nearby would be cool too, perhaps just sunny rock at lower elevations or some trekking in the area. Where would you go? Looking to make a month of it from mid-Sept to mid-October..... Thinking of New Zealand / Thailand combination possibly. Any thoughts are much appreciated!

something high... decent snow didn't start until 5600' off SR2 this past weekend, and its only gotten warmer since, I believe.

...didn't steal a BD tent did they? http://seattle.craigslist.org/see/spo/4157264244.html

great shots - what a beautiful area, thanks for sharing. I wonder how many gorgeous Olympic TRs I'll need to read before getting myself over there....

sounds like you're gonna simul, so why not just fold it over and have a "full" rope?

Trip: Mt Thomson - West Ridge Date: 7/21/2013 Trip Report: West Ridge of Thomson in a day. After a few attemps beta gathering trips in March and June of this year, I was finally ready to put it all together. 17 hours on the move... alpine start to headlamp finish. Full value day. More photos and writeup here Approach is now totally snow free to Bumblebee pass, where there is a bit of snow left in the basin. If you're going in the next 2 weeks, fill up water in the basin. After that I wouldn't walk past Ridge Lake without filling up. Climb went well and East ridge descent took a while as we slowly picked our way down loose crappy rocks. I think if you had cut far right as soon as possible you can make it to a vegetated minor ridge, which would likely have better footing. Gear Notes: Leave crampons and mountaineering boots at home.... You may find a blue BD Guide atc on the bench below the 2nd pitch. Congratulations! I suggest recycling it. Approach Notes: PCT to Ridge lake... scramble up to pass.

...got some plans now, thanks for responses...

Taking off mid-day Friday from Seattle and looking to squeeze as much climbing possible into 1.5 days. Triumph? Forbidden? Another similar climb you've had on your tick list? drop me a line.... Erik

there is decent, though I think illegal, camping on the beach near the bridge that crosses the river on your way over to Far Side. I'd recommend parking at the lot and walking in the 10 minutes, and walking out of sight of the road, especially if you're planning a camp fire. MOtel... hmmm North Bend is closest, I guess, but no tips... have you considered Squamish?

Anyone have any experience they'd like to share regarding ascending (or even just getting past) Sinister Peak from the south (via Garden glacier?). I'm hoping to approach the Ptarmigan traverse (south->north) from this direction, and being that we'll have nice heavy packs want to keep it as easy as possible. Only bit I've picked up so far is that the south face is 300' of class4 from CAG...but am a bit unsure of linking up the traverse to Dome. If this were just a climb I'd just go explore, but given that we'll invest lots of time and set up a car shuttle, I'd like to make sure there's a reasonable chance it goes....